jpinthehouse Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Thanks for the earlier replies, am now using block and beam on trench blocks, looking at reducing. thermal bridging under sole plate of timber frame Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_L Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 - here are several possible options foamglas - https://uk.foamglas.com/en-gb/applications/foamglas-perinsul marmox thermoblock - http://www.marmox.co.uk/products/thermoblock purenit - http://en.puren.com/fileadmin/user_upload/products/industrie/purenit/en/Purenit_ENGLISCH_2016_SCREEN.pdf compacfoam - http://www.compacfoam.com/26-compressive-strength.html - none are exactly cheap though. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bissoejosh Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 I had the same question and have decided to do the following... Our frame is quite wide at 245mm so we're splitting our sole plate into 2x95mm plates and insulating the gap between to minimize the primary bridge through solid timber. In addition to this we're using insulation on the external face of our block-work upstand which basically sandwiches it between this and the internal insulation. Hopefully this should help reduce the risk of condensation build up which to be honest was my larger concern than the cold bridge. How wide is your wall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpinthehouse Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 Hi 100mm block work 50mm cavity and 140mm stud sitting (as it stands) 165mm of block make up which sit on beam floor which in turn sits on trench blocks Hope this makes sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Think foamglass type blocks are the accepted workaround here? Also look into using eps insulation instead of lean mix Conc in your cavity below ground. Will resist compression and reduce cold bridge. Cut a champher on top to direct water outwards. Did @joe90 do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 15 minutes ago, Oz07 said: Also look into using eps insulation instead of lean mix Conc in your cavity below ground. Will resist compression and reduce cold bridge. Cut a champher on top to direct water outwards. Did @joe90 do this? No it’s me that did it and worked really well. Needs a big (600mm) step DPC but is very effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Why, does the dpc go under the eps then? Also is this method more successful with ground bearing Slab as inside face of internal blockwork will also be at low temp in vented floor? Suppose eps could also be placed against this face for belt and braces? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 35 minutes ago, PeterW said: No it’s me that did it and worked really well. Needs a big (600mm) step DPC but is very effective. Well great minds think alike ?, yes I also did this but slightly differently. I copied the Golcar system:- but on my builders recommendation changed it a little. The DPC being above floor level indoors led on a previous build of his led to a crack in the plaster ( slip plane) so we lowered the DPC To internal floor level, the outside level was then below ground slightly but within a french drain so the weep vents could work, we then installed a second DPC in the outside brick skin level with the internal one which was above the outside ground level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Yes now on that sketch imagine a vented floorspace inside. Just wouldn't perform as well with cold air and cold bridge of conc beams. If you brought eps up inside and also used something like hanson jet floor that would seem to get rid of the bridges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bissoejosh Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 11 hours ago, jpinthehouse said: Hi 100mm block work 50mm cavity and 140mm stud sitting (as it stands) 165mm of block make up which sit on beam floor which in turn sits on trench blocks Hope this makes sense In that case I'd do a variation on the touchwood method... http://www.touchwoodhomes.co.uk/index.php/foundation-systems/53-strip-foundations Basically a cavity foundation with the beam and block set as low as you can. Slab of insulation above this and carry the cavity insulation right up to sole plate if possible. If we upsized to a 300mm stud I'd have done exactly the same as the diagram but you can modify it support your brick outer leaf which we don't have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Sorry @joe90 forgot you had too ..!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now