Lindab vs Catnic- Steel Standing Seam Roofing

[BeckC]

What are people’s thoughts on Catnic & Lindab standing seam roofing? Which is the better option out of the two? 

We are currently working on our Class Q self build, and looking at standing seam roofing options. Lindab and Catnic have proven to be the most affordable options for us, and offer the longer warranty with their roof coatings. However, I was wondering what everyone’s experiences have been. We are approximately 1mile away from the North Cornwall coast, so longevity and durability is incredibly important to us and our self build mortgage.

Did you favour a particular brand for steel standing seam, and why? Did you find a particular roof coating was better than other coatings?

[Russell griffiths]

I did some very rough analysis 

I asked for large samples of 3-4 manufacturers, 1 wouldn’t send it so they got dumped

the others I chucked on my driveway way and proceeded to walk on them every time I came home and parked the car. 
I did this for 2 months and checked the damage, I discounted one I didn’t like and got quotes from the other 2. 
 

I didn’t pick the cheapest but went with what I thought was a good product with good people to deal with. 

[saveasteading]

I bought Lindab products for decades because of the quality. So I'm a good referee but also biased.

Cladding, gutters, modular buildings.

I was shown round their ducting factory. Stunningly hitech.

 

I didn't know catnic made cladding so no comment.

 

See my previous comments on why I never specified standing seam.

 

[Peter Thompson]

I'm currently fitting Catnic Urban to our roof, which has a 5 degree fall. I have nothing to compare it with, and obvously can't comment on longevity.  But the coating has a reassuring, appearance; as if it is lightly embossed with a pimpled roller, and seems very thick.  The steel is much sturdier than I expected, and the panels click together very securely and look fantastic on the roof.

 

Apart from the look, we were drawn to Catnic by the excellent sales service, with an online estimator, which includes delivery. Despite being in north-east Scotland, delivery was possible and a kit arrived, including every last item needed to fit the roof, for around £8500 before VAT. The only negative is that obtaining information about fitting it was tricky, although a training day in Wales is available. We struggled to find anyone locally who would fit it, but as advanced (in experience and years) self-builders we've found that getting the 8.5 metre panels on the roof has been the biggest challenge.  

 

I'll try to remember to get some images tomorrow.

[Russell griffiths]

9 hours ago, Peter Thompson said:

I'm currently fitting Catnic Urban to our roof, which has a 5 degree fall. I have nothing to compare it with, and obvously can't comment on longevity.  But the coating has a reassuring, appearance; as if it is lightly embossed with a pimpled roller, and seems very thick.  The steel is much sturdier than I expected, and the panels click together very securely and look fantastic on the roof.

 

Apart from the look, we were drawn to Catnic by the excellent sales service, with an online estimator, which includes delivery. Despite being in north-east Scotland, delivery was possible and a kit arrived, including every last item needed to fit the roof, for around £8500 before VAT. The only negative is that obtaining information about fitting it was tricky, although a training day in Wales is available. We struggled to find anyone locally who would fit it, but as advanced (in experience and years) self-builders we've found that getting the 8.5 metre panels on the roof has been the biggest challenge.  

 

I'll try to remember to get some images tomorrow.

The training day is well worth it. Cardiff is the only location I think. 
unlike other companies catnic still supply this for free. 
 

I was rather peed off that after spending £20,000 with an icf company they then wanted £180 for a training day.🤬

[Peter Thompson]

A terrible photo, taken today and slightly into the sun.  I'm halfway across the roof now, and getting quite good at it.

[Annker]

Can I ask if any the above poster have install the metal roofing themselves and if so was it technically difficult?

I've some cladding to do, small area but a window penetration and the usual abutments. 

I'm a carpenter by trade and have done some lead work so resonable confident those skill will transfer across to metal work.

 

Also Lindab appears to be some manner of partner (not manufacturer) of Greencoat, so when people refer to Lindab standing seem is that actually Greencoat?   

[Russell griffiths]

If your a carpenter and fairly handy you can do it, you will need a few specific tools but only hand tools so £150 will cover it. 
loads of instructional drawings about if you hunt for them. 
 

I think green coat is the actual steel coated product. 
this is then used by various manufacturers and bent up to their specific sheet style. 

[saveasteading]

1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said:

If your a carpenter and fairly handy you can do it.

Agreed. You can hire the proper  shears and nibbler if you need to cut it.

Also research screws. I would only use stainless from a major brand. And get the official head to fit precisely.

A lightweight battery drill with accurate torque settings you might buy or rent.

 

Lindab, catnic and cladco buy in coils of steel ready coated, and roll-form it. So it will be the same stuff.

I don't know Greencoat. I doubt it is suitable so near the sea, so get assurances. Normally you will need the extra thick version of plastisol coating.

It's not just the salt, also the gulls mess. And design so that the rain can lash all areas....no overhangs or ledges.

[Annker]

Thanks both @Russell griffiths and @saveasteading for the response.

 

I got of ~£6k+vat quote for supply and install vm zinc to include;

• 8m of parapet capping
• 6m RWP & hopper
• 8m2 of cladding with 1no window penetration. 

To me it seems like a very expensive quote, making reasonable cost assumptions for the coping and RWP suggests a rate of ~£500 /m2 for the cladding element.

 

I've called Catnic and Cladco, I will call Lindab also. (Metal solutions were also recommended here)

Ideally I'd find a supplier that would take a look at my drawings/sketch and then spec the required trims (Cladco said they don't stock  trims but can manufacture whatever profile I ask for)

 

Certainly don't mind hiring or even buying a few hand tools for the job. Have you any suggestions for specific tools?

 

 

 

   

[saveasteading]

That price seems totally wrong (very high) to me.

What is access like, and is this including a scaffold system?

 

It should be done in a day, such a small area. add another for the flashings being finished off neatly.

probably 3 persons, simply as  a team setup  and for handling the long sheets.

 

 

2 hours ago, Annker said:

any suggestions for specific tools?

If you cur this type of cladding it has to be with a snipping motion. It drags the galvanising over the steel cut.

This can be steel snips (they come in left hand , right hand and straight) and nibbler (a motorise punch that nibbles a cut by means of punching  a stream of crescent moons (or toenails), 

Never use cutting discs or reciprocating saws as they wreck the material and it will rust.

[JamesP]

I fitted 300sqm of Tata (Same as Catnic)  Colorcoat Urban on our new build, roof with 7 velux and wall with window and door. All doable with simple tools.

In 2018 was about £30sqm. You have the skills.

[Annker]

8 hours ago, saveasteading said:

That price seems totally wrong (very high) to me.

What is access like, and is this including a scaffold system?

 

It should be done in a day, such a small area. add another for the flashings being finished off neatly.

probably 3 persons, simply as  a team setup  and for handling the long sheets.

 

 

If you cur this type of cladding it has to be with a snipping motion. It drags the galvanising over the steel cut.

This can be steel snips (they come in left hand , right hand and straight) and nibbler (a motorise punch that nibbles a cut by means of punching  a stream of crescent moons (or toenails), 

Never use cutting discs or reciprocating saws as they wreck the material and it will rust.

Its a well appointed site, fully scaffolded and substrate will be fully finished ready for covering.

I estimated the time taken similarly, I was thinking 2 installers x3 days would be a generous allowance. 

 

Ah the need for snipping makes sense now.

Edited December 6 by Annker

[saveasteading]

Have you checked out the exposure resistance yet? 

Also how the seams lap. Some simply fit over each other, while others need the joint to be rolled, in position,  by a special tool.

Edited December 6 by saveasteading

[Annker]

8 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

Have you checked out the exposure resistance yet? 

Also how the seams lap. Some simply fit over each other, while others need the joint to be rolled, in position,  by a special tool.

I haven't checked the exposure resistance. 

The facade to be cladded is north facing (I'm yet to see rain drive against it), the house itself is in a town and well sheltered, we're ~30miles from the coast. 

Given that situates us in a relative non exposed site, I've assumed, perhaps wrongly, that even the least performing offering on the market should be adequate.

 

I'm hoping the clipped together/non rolled joint versions will be satisfactory.

I imagine they require less tools & skill making them easier to install but still should perform ok for a cladding install; for a flat roof I'd certainly veer towards the rolled joint.  

[scottishjohn]

On 05/12/2024 at 12:56, saveasteading said:

I don't know Greencoat. I doubt it is suitable so near the sea, so get assurances. Normally you will need the extra thick version of plastisol coating.

It's not just the salt, also the gulls mess. And design so that the rain can lash all areas....no overhangs or ledges.

from personal experience  with my garage roof 

it was done in plastisol and after 20 years the cut edges started rusting and lifting the coating off  

 If i were  doing it again i would want to coat all cut edges with something ,

maybe they do suitable paint for this 

 i am talking along tinme ago now ,so maybe they do now  ?

 or maybe i was just unlucky 

Edited December 7 by scottishjohn

[saveasteading]

1 hour ago, scottishjohn said:

maybe they do suitable paint for this 

There is a varnish to coat the cut ends. But the corrosion is usually caused by incorrect cutting. The factory cuts the roll of material by shearing, and this drags the galvanising over the orherwise exposed steel. It also keeps the plastisol fully adhered.

 

Another cause is if sheets are lapping lengthwise without a seal, as water sticks beneath.

 

I've only ever used top end materials, but apparently the agricultural grades don't last as long.

 

If end corrosion is spotted early then it can be stopped.

[scottishjohn]

9 hours ago, saveasteading said:

There is a varnish to coat the cut ends. But the corrosion is usually caused by incorrect cutting. The factory cuts the roll of material by shearing, and this drags the galvanising over the orherwise exposed steel. It also keeps the plastisol fully adhered.

 

Another cause is if sheets are lapping lengthwise without a seal, as water sticks beneath.

 

I've only ever used top end materials, but apparently the agricultural grades don't last as long.

 

If end corrosion is spotted early then it can be stopped.

roof was laid when my garage was built 31.5m x24m 

 and by the contractor 

no edge protection onsheets to stop rubbing   and definately no ends treated 

 at 30 years old i used an aggressive two pack to paint it all  looked good for sometime 

 

now 40 years on its is still there water tight ,but my many weeks spent cleaning and painting were a waste of time  as it is still loosing its coating complete with paint i applied  all over

 i have never seen any tin roofs on commercial buildingd with edge protection where they overlap  and that is where most of the corrosion started

maybe somethiong new

Edited December 8 by scottishjohn

[saveasteading]

1 hour ago, scottishjohn said:

never seen any tin roofs on commercial buildingd with edge protection where they overlap

If the sheets are uncut, or cut properly, and with a quality product,  it doesn't need it.

Silicon tape under any laps stops capillary action and water sitting there permanently.

 

Double thickness plastisol for exposed sites is a fairly recent product.

 

[scottishjohn]

12 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

If the sheets are uncut,

it is these edges that showed delamination first 

built in1982

 maybe they should have been fitted with silcone bead hwere they overlapped  at vertical joints ?

 very little if any trimming of length of panels as far as i could se when they were fitted,but yes cappings were cut with a jigsaw 

Edited December 8 by scottishjohn