Drilling and fixing into a precast lintel

[saveasteading]

Don't worry, I know you should never do this as it compromises the strength.

No, I'll explain.

 

I'm considering lintels as sole plates. I've specified it before and it was a success. BUT I didn't watch the fixing of the timber stud to it. The joiners didn't complain so it must have been OK.

 

One fixing centrally so won't touch the steel.

I'm assuming use of sds, and top quality bits (de Walt?)

 

Has anyone done this?

 

1. How easily does the bit sail into the top of the very hard concrete lintel?

 

2.What's a good and easy fixing for a 47mm batten into it?

 

I once saw a joiner using hit-fixings for sole plate to blockwork,  that involved a metal cone as the expanding part, and was impressed with it.  But I lost the details and can't find it in searches.

 

I'll explain the purpose and benefits if we go ahead this way. It should be the industry norm I believe.

[Russell griffiths]

These soleplate fixings are only really to locate it while building, you should have some form of hold down strap at locations specific to what you are building. 
why the lintels, does it span over a pipe. 

[saveasteading]

32 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

why the lintels

I'll explain later. They are sole plate snot structural.

[joe90]

I have drilled into and fixed with rawlplugs into concrete lintels many times, just try to avoid the steel. 

[Iceverge]

It sounds like a thermal bridge which will redirect any condensation driven decay to the bottom of the studs. 

 

What is the issue with timber sole plates? 

 

 

[SteamyTea]

8 hours ago, saveasteading said:

that involved a metal cone as the expanding part

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fxa-throughbolts-m10-x-126mm-20-pack/48986

 

Used to use them on the large log cabin saunas.

The smaller ones we used the plastic ones.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-nylon-hammer-fixings-8mm-x-120mm-10-pack/19157

 

 

[saveasteading]

Either of them would do but 1 is over the top and expensive for lots. 2 is ok but i rather liked the ones i was describing.

 

For this process, i would be buying about 180m of lintel and fixing them down at 1m cc and then timber to them at 1m cc. Hence 20p fixings is the plan. And 8mm dia will ease the drilling.

 

Threaded rod and squeezy epoxy is an unnecessary fiddle.

 

I thought the ones I saw were Timco, but I can't find them.

[joe90]

Frankly it’s only to stop sideways motion or uplift so need (IMO) to go overboard, screws and rawlplugs will suffice IMO. how are fixings the lintels in place?

[SteamyTea]

25 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

Either of them would do but 1 is over the top and expensive for lots. 2 is ok but i rather liked the ones i was describing.

I did not look at actual bolt diameter, just picked the first search hits.

 

You could use a combination of small bolts, DPC and PU adhesive.  That way you would get a very strong bond, damp proofing and airtightness.

 

Am I right in thinking you mentioned this idea a year or two back?

Edited November 6, 2024 by SteamyTea

[saveasteading]

7 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

mentioned this idea a year or two back?

 

I mention most things several times, I'm told. 

Again:

 

When building a 3 storey timber building i was surprised that the timber contractor insisted on a brick kerb above floor level.. That cost was a loss to us.

I could see why they wanted it but thought bricks would displace. So used lintels. The price halves with big quantities and it doesn't need a bricklayer. It worked and the company said it was a great idea.

 

Now we are building a timber building inside a steel building. I had intended to use tanalised timber as sole plate, but pc lintel is going to :

Live for ever

Be much more accurate

Not distort or compress.

Rest on continuous mortar, not occasional plastic packers. (Strength, precision, no gaps for air or beasties.)

Not get kicked over.

Hold the stud robustly during construction.

 

Against?

Cost 4 x timber

May still need a timber sole plate above it...or can we fix stud panels direct?

 

[SteamyTea]

2 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

When building a 3 storey timber building i was surprised that the timber contractor insisted on a brick kerb above floor level.. That cost was a loss to us.

I could see why they wanted it but thought bricks would displace. So used lintels. The price halves with big quantities and it doesn't need a bricklayer. It worked and the company said it was a great idea.

That's roughly what I remembered.

 

As it is going to be inside an existing building, it should be easy.