bluebellcottage Posted September 25 Share Posted September 25 Does anyone have any good advice on using slate and a halfs? I seem to find myself out of bond and unable to rectify the problem without using cut down slates to correct this. i have attached a couple of pictures to show what’s happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted September 25 Share Posted September 25 (edited) you are using slate and a half too soon, at the bottom you can run in with normal slates and keep bond. When you get further up you will find a normal slate isnt quite wide enough at top this in when you use a slate and a half. I'd also run the slates a little further over the lead, 100mm cover really. The lead sits very low under the slates and looks like there is a large gap where you have your clamp, you dont want that they need be tight. May need to OSB the valley first to pack it up before dressing the lead. Edited September 25 by Dave Jones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted September 25 Share Posted September 25 As above all of these should be normal slate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebellcottage Posted September 25 Author Share Posted September 25 Thank you both for your advice. I think I’m possibly overly worried about the small triangle of slate being insecure. Will the slating that has already been done be ok as it is Or will I need to strip and re do this? The valleys currently have 65mm cover from the slates, they have a 25mm up stand which is why they look like there is a large gap where the lead is flat on the roof it’s wider than 65mm overlap as the lead roll is 450mm I followed a diagram forwarded from our architect for this but understand now that it’s possibly over complicated. Does this sound ok or am I setting myself up for a leaky roof? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted September 25 Share Posted September 25 They will be fine Use the slate and a halve sparingly Its ok to drill the smaller triangles where ever you can fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Potter Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 (edited) Slating is an art and traditional craft. It gob smacks me how often folk claim to be slaters but don't realise how slates in valleys and at roof verges need to be tailed. It not just for appearance it has real meaning to prevent dripping and compromising the lead in the valley and the verge. When cutting a valley slate you pop it upside down and cut the tail the other way up so the regular rain water does not drip on the the valley lead.. is uses the miniscuse principle and trickes down to the bottom of the valley where the thick lead is. These are traditional skills. it also protects the sharp edge of the slate forom frost and maitenance damage. The natural bedding plane of a slate is not suited to getting cut by a diamond saw! At the roof verge we do the same so the water is shed back into the roof rather than rotting the verge. These things are the basics of slating that were drummed into me and apprenticies. Folk think.. hey I've got a slate roof and it will last longer than concrete tiles.. well it won't unless you know these things! Whoever slated this valley is not slater and you would not get anywhere near my house! Edited September 26 by Gus Potter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 10 hours ago, bluebellcottage said: Thank you both for your advice. I think I’m possibly overly worried about the small triangle of slate being insecure. Will the slating that has already been done be ok as it is Or will I need to strip and re do this? The valleys currently have 65mm cover from the slates, they have a 25mm up stand which is why they look like there is a large gap where the lead is flat on the roof it’s wider than 65mm overlap as the lead roll is 450mm I followed a diagram forwarded from our architect for this but understand now that it’s possibly over complicated. Does this sound ok or am I setting myself up for a leaky roof? We slated our first As real beginners My wife and myself slated our recent build 50 degree roof four valleys like yours and four ten meter valleys The only difference is that I bought an auto cutter from the US Works like tin shears No more marking the slates on the back Leaves perfect riven edge Probably not use it again But 200 quid well spent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 I use one of these, gives a good riven edge. https://www.toolstation.com/slate-cutter/p57659?store=PF&utm_ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 If it was a scottish roof there would be no battons the slates would nailed to the roofing wrap making it much tighter to the flashing modern roofers even do away with the second row at bottom and use a grp strip -about 300mm wide which makes it even tigher to the gutter they even put it down the side og my valleys beofre the lead what it won,t do is give the slight kick up at bottom of roof where the double layer of slates is on a normal roof Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebellcottage Posted September 26 Author Share Posted September 26 @Gus Potter I should have made it clear in my post that I am the guilty party when it comes to the slaying of the valley. For various reasons I have ended up slating the roof myself and am generally fairly handy. I have however quickly become aware that l slating is an art and would have been best left to the professionals had this been an option. i have used a slate cutter for all the cuts so far and laid them riven edge up (with the exception of the under eaves course, this is the other way up) is this correct and what you refer to as the slates needing a tail in the valley? Thank you for any input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebellcottage Posted September 26 Author Share Posted September 26 (edited) 1 hour ago, joe90 said: I use one of these, gives a good riven edge. https://www.toolstation.com/slate-cutter/p57659?store=PF&utm_ That looks like a similar cutter to the one I have … it works very well. https://www.roofingmerchant.co.uk/product-page/edma-slate-cutter-with-punch?utm_source=google&utm_medium=wix_google_feed&utm_campaign=freelistings&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADh2aGz86ARgMDWSyV8Xo_T_LhvmA&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6Iq-wZjgiAMVYWdBAh3VeDiGEAQYBiABEgJ6TvD_BwE Edited September 26 by bluebellcottage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebellcottage Posted September 26 Author Share Posted September 26 3 hours ago, nod said: We slated our first As real beginners My wife and myself slated our recent build 50 degree roof four valleys like yours and four ten meter valleys The only difference is that I bought an auto cutter from the US Works like tin shears No more marking the slates on the back Leaves perfect riven edge Probably not use it again But 200 quid well spent I’ve just had a look at these, they look like a great bit of kit and I’m sure they would save a lot of time over my hand cutters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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