Is an individual STP worth the investment?

[saveasteading]

1 hour ago, scottishjohn said:

they could ask to see your log and  who did it 

If you did , say, a dipstick test every  6 months, showed there was no sludge, and kept a log with photos, I doubt there would be trouble, at worst a warning.

BUT if there was contamination and they traced it back to you, as somehow they often can, the absence of tests and desludging would add to the consequences.

 

I wonder if there is a diy way to deal with the top crust when there is one. Mix it back into solution to be digested? Bury it? 

[joe90]

1 hour ago, saveasteading said:

I wonder if there is a diy way to deal with the top crust when there is one.

Mine used to come and go on its own. 🤷‍♂️

[scottishjohn]

the replies from you all --and I am not saying you are not looking after your tanks  or havibg a go --maybe you are correct it does not need desludging very often 

 

 but suppose neighbours are not using correct washing powders or flushing wet wipes ,tampons etc !!

 

 It shows why when you are sharing with others why you need a solid agreement so you don,t fall out with neighbours on how often or when it needs servicing   and there is money there to do it

 

 same as when shared road ways need maintainece

 

 so  you want control over it if its on your property

 

 

[Kelvin]

We had a catchment tank at the previous house. Shared by 8 homes. This had a pump in it that helped pump the waste to the main sewer line that was several hundred metres away. I repeatedly had to tell the neighbours to stop flushing the wrong stuff down their loos as it blocked the tank. Consequently I’d never share anything like this with folk again. 

[saveasteading]

35 minutes ago, Kelvin said:

Consequently I’d never share anything like this with folk again. 

Your turn to clear the pump might concentrate the mind.

I lived briefly in a tenement where we took turns to clean the stair. If you didn't, big Aggie from downstairs knocked on the door! Then you did it.

[jumbletons]

I'm back! An update.....

 

So, the neighbours have spent a year being horrendous and refusing anything that gets us to an agreement, while simultaneously accusing my of being unreasonable and uncooperative....but they have finally (a year on) seen sense, and we have 2 options on the table. HOORAH!:

 

1. Keep existing easement and 3-way shared system at cottage 3. Klargester Biodisc installed as close as possible to existing septic tank. Everything else stays the same.

PROS - cheaper, my garden not dug up, less risky

CONS - sharing with awful neighbours, installation will need access through my garden, septic tank currently accepts rainwater from 2 roof valleys and neighbours/their installer think that's fine (but I think it can cause STP failure, flushing out and pollution, and maybe void the STP warranty), unlikely to have any choice/say in STP type or installer because neighbours have refused to negotiate anything, ever...

 

2. Individual system - neighbours have agreed to a legal abandonment document for my property, so I am officially released from the rights/responsibilities of the old easement. I will not put rainwater in my new system - a soakaway will be installed simultaneously. However, the STP will be sited in my orchard (site map to follow).

PROS - no rainwater flush out, free from neighbours and associated drama, property sale-ability, choice of system (will be Marsh), 

CONS - expense, upheaval, risk of something causing issues like the water pipe getting in the way (generally it's a fiddly job and these things never go 100% smoothly), tree root damage risk, 100% of maintenance costs/issue fall on me

[jumbletons]

Purple shows existing, blue shows individual - my concern is that it's in the orchard and pipes dug around a pool...so maybe I will push it to be installed beyond the orchard in a strip of grass beyond it, but that will end up being really quite far from the house so rather deep! 

[Gone West]

43 minutes ago, jumbletons said:

Klargester Biodisc installed as close as possible to existing septic tank.

I wouldn't use a Biodisc. The local farmer had one and it was always breaking down, and it's a grim task sorting it out. There are plenty of STPs with air pumps, which is what we used. Good luck with the job and I hope it finally gets sorted out for you.

[Kelvin]

I’d still go individual and not a Biodisc. Ours (Graf) is a fair distance from the house and outflows to a large drainage field. Just had it serviced yesterday (free check up) and everything is tip top. 
 

For what it’s worth the company that serviced it cover most of the manufacturers. In order of preference, in their experience of least problems, it goes Graf, Marsh, Vortex but he said they are all quite reliable and it’s what gets put down them that tends to be the main cause of problems. I asked him about the Biodisc and he said they are the most common for self-builds (because architects use Klargester like Hoover is to vacuum cleaners I expect) and they aren’t as unreliable as they are made out to be but he wouldn’t recommend them regardless. 

Edited Saturday at 15:53 by Kelvin

[saveasteading]

Well done. It has  to be number 2.

 

Your worries are sensible and sortable.

A) expense...later.

B) upheaval. Meaning nuisance? It can be less than you might think.

Digging the pit is the biggest issue. But if you have access it's ok. the tank is manhandleable by 4 people OR digger.

C) risk of obstruction.  Your new drain takes priority. Dig the whole trench and pit from house to tank before laying or connecting anything. Pipes move, roots cut. New pipe doesn't have to be deep as there is no load over it.

D) maintenace costs are very low. Plus they will be in your control....nothing going in that shouldn't, and no rainwater either. You can study how the tank works and decide if it needs cleaning.....which it shouldn't. 

You can make uour own test sump for the outflow. The testing kit is eyes and nose.

The new Marsh tank supposedly uses less power and works better, but costs more (£300?) : your shout. Btw i have an ancient brick cess tank and have had it pumped out once in 20 years..... also a 3 chamber tank with no mechanicals or power  Never cleaned in 20 years. 

E) Pool stability.  A wise concern, but I can't comment. Except to ask what is the line marked "pump"? Why not drain to the orchard? If you use a pump then the pipe is small and shallow.

Most people seem to use soakaways smaller than the design rules. I prefer a french drain, and it's easy to extend (phase 2).

 

A) again. Covered in the above. Rain pipe in same trench? You can get big discounts for big pipe orders.

Can be diy with mates.

BUT I think BCO should be involved.  

 

Edited Saturday at 15:57 by saveasteading

[jumbletons]

45 minutes ago, Kelvin said:

I’d still go individual and not a Biodisc. Ours (Graf) is a fair distance from the house and outflows to a large drainage field. Just had it serviced yesterday (free check up) and everything is tip top. 
 

For what it’s worth the company that serviced it cover most of the manufacturers. In order of preference, in their experience of least problems, it goes Graf, Marsh, Vortex but he said they are all quite reliable and it’s what gets put down them that tends to be the main cause of problems. I asked him about the Biodisc and he said they are the most common for self-builds (because architects use Klargester like Hoover is to vacuum cleaners I expect) and they aren’t as unreliable as they are made out to be but he wouldn’t recommend them regardless. 

Thank you, this is very helpful. I do feel anxious about the idea of not having control/choice over the system I use. So on balance I prefer going solo

[jumbletons]

45 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

Well done. It has  to be number 2.

 

Your worries are sensible and sortable.

A) expense...later.

B) upheaval. Meaning nuisance? It can be less than you might think.

Digging the pit is the biggest issue. But if you have access it's ok. the tank is manhandleable by 4 people OR digger.

C) risk of obstruction.  Your new drain takes priority. Dig the whole trench and pit from house to tank before laying or connecting anything. Pipes move, roots cut. New pipe doesn't have to be deep as there is no load over it.

D) maintenace costs are very low. Plus they will be in your control....nothing going in that shouldn't, and no rainwater either. You can study how the tank works and decide if it needs cleaning.....which it shouldn't. 

You can make uour own test sump for the outflow. The testing kit is eyes and nose.

The new Marsh tank supposedly uses less power and works better, but costs more (£300?) : your shout. Btw i have an ancient brick cess tank and have had it pumped out once in 20 years..... also a 3 chamber tank with no mechanicals or power  Never cleaned in 20 years. 

E) Pool stability.  A wise concern, but I can't comment. Except to ask what is the line marked "pump"? Why not drain to the orchard? If you use a pump then the pipe is small and shallow.

Most people seem to use soakaways smaller than the design rules. I prefer a french drain, and it's easy to extend (phase 2).

 

A) again. Covered in the above. Rain pipe in same trench? You can get big discounts for big pipe orders.

Can be diy with mates.

BUT I think BCO should be involved.  

 

Thank you so much for this, it’s so useful to have an outsider looking in! 
 

I will consult my ‘pool guy’ about pipes running alongside it. 
 

The outflow is going downhill into a drainage ditch, so the outflow route just follows the fall of the land so it’s gravity drained. I think I’m wrong about the pump actually, ignore that! I think it’s an inspection chamber. But the orchard is suggested as plant location because it is the closest to the house that is a) far enough to meet regs and b) not under a driveway. I own the driveway and the strip of grass the other side of the orchard so access shouldn’t be an issue. 

Edited Saturday at 16:39 by jumbletons