AwesomePete Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 I'm building a garden room with 125mm SIP panels on a concrete base with a PIR floating floor. I want to get the panels off the base and away from ground level, but I can't find suitable brick/block sizes for 125mm panels. If I use ~100mm wide engineering brick, I'll have an overhang on both sides. I'd consider 140mm blocks, but under 215mm high seem hard to get and I assume I'd have an internal cold bridge to deal with. Perhaps lay engineering brick at 90 degrees and cut off an end? Form a concrete upstand? What do you suggest? I feel like I'm missing something obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 12 minutes ago, AwesomePete said: feel like I'm missing something obvious Can you do it with foam glass, I think that is easily sawn to size. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 12mm overhangs don't seem like a huge problem. If 100 is not working for you, try concrete lintels, 140mm wide ? 3 heights available. Or lintels or blocks 100mm wide, and the oversail (inside, outside or both) might be acceptable with some thought. One thing at a time. We need to know the whole wall construction really. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AwesomePete Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 30 minutes ago, SteamyTea said: Can you do it with foam glass, I think that is easily sawn to size. Interesting product... About £800 in my case! Not cheap, but worth considering, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AwesomePete Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 (edited) 27 minutes ago, saveasteading said: 12mm overhangs don't seem like a huge problem. We need to know the whole wall construction really. Not sure what other information you need? It's a (low occupancy) garden room office, so I plan to wrap, batten and clad the external and batten and plasterboard the internal. If 10mm soleplate overhang both inside and outside is acceptable, then simple engineering brick would be easiest. I was expecting to install DPC strip under the soleplate, locating plate, then the panels as normal. Edited April 27 by AwesomePete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu w Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 Marmox blocks maybe an option 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oliwoodings Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 Couldn't you use 100mm blocks and take advantage of the overhang by positioning it on the inside, then running your floating PIR under the walls to reduce cold bridging? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AwesomePete Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 53 minutes ago, stu w said: Marmox blocks maybe an option I did look at those, but know nothing about them and they're not cheap. ~£800 for me. Still considering then though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AwesomePete Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 40 minutes ago, oliwoodings said: Couldn't you use 100mm blocks and take advantage of the overhang by positioning it on the inside, then running your floating PIR under the walls to reduce cold bridging? Would that be structurally acceptable? I don't mind an overhang as long as structure/damp is not an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu w Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 Just now, AwesomePete said: I did look at those, but know nothing about them and they're not cheap. ~£800 for me. Still considering then though. Personally I think they are superb and used many times , yes fairly expensive but worth the cost i think 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oliwoodings Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 2 hours ago, AwesomePete said: Would that be structurally acceptable? I don't mind an overhang as long as structure/damp is not an issue. I don't see why it would be an issue - I assume you'll be attaching a wall plate down first on top of the blocks and the sips will sit on the plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AwesomePete Posted April 28 Author Share Posted April 28 9 hours ago, oliwoodings said: I don't see why it would be an issue - I assume you'll be attaching a wall plate down first on top of the blocks and the sips will sit on the plate? Correct. Plate on the wall, then guide rail to carry the SIP. Ok, I thought that might be an issue. One to consider then. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 Look up a product called kingspan green gaurd. Get it in the thickness you want, then run it through a table saw to 125mm, it has a load rating of 500kg/m something. you can drill through it and bolt your sole plate down on to it. polyurethane adhesive under it onto the concrete, and below the sole plate. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said: kingspan green guard. below the sole plate. I wasn't aware of that product or the very high strength. I'm a bit surprised that it can be so dense and still insulate well. I hope to see a sample some time. Can we be sure that it will do this job long term? Resisting shrinkage and insect burrowing for example. ie it doesn't matter against an outside wall or under roof sheeting, but supporting a structural wall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADLIan Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 Greenguard is an extruded polystyrene thermal insulation. Compressive strength of 500kPa is ultimate ie at failure. Safe long term static load may only be 1/5 of this value. Not sure it’s the correct product here and doubt manufacturer would stand by this application. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 51 minutes ago, saveasteading said: I wasn't aware of that product or the very high strength. I'm a bit surprised that it can be so dense and still insulate well. I hope to see a sample some time. Can we be sure that it will do this job long term? Resisting shrinkage and insect burrowing for example. ie it doesn't matter against an outside wall or under roof sheeting, but supporting a structural wall? It’s only a glorified shed, not intended for a house application. we all know the correct answer, but the original poster will either say it’s too expensive or the wrong size, this is just an educated fudge up really. I’ve used it under my sliders and front door. It will need protection from insect boring. 46 minutes ago, ADLIan said: Greenguard is an extruded polystyrene thermal insulation. Compressive strength of 500kPa is ultimate ie at failure. Safe long term static load may only be 1/5 of this value. Not sure it’s the correct product here and doubt manufacturer would stand by this application. Again, we all know what the correct item to use here is, but at £800 it’s an expensive option. what exactly are marmox blocks made of. I have no idea where you are getting your figures that long term use the loading could be 1/5 of stated manufacture rating. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AwesomePete Posted April 28 Author Share Posted April 28 1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said: It’s only a glorified shed, not intended for a house application. How dare you! I mean... You're right, but don't say it out loud. 1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said: we all know the correct answer, but the original poster will either say it’s too expensive or the wrong size The size would be fine as there's no cold bridge issue. I've not ruled it out. I keep upping the spec on things like this, so I should consider the cost implications really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 19 hours ago, AwesomePete said: What do you suggest? I feel like I'm missing something obvious. Pour a concrete ring beam in lieu of blocks. Straightforward to shutter up. Infact you could use the PIR floor as your internal shutter if you wanted. Make sure the bottom of your sips are well above rain splash height. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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