Onoff Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 Morning, Looking to help tile my nephews shed roof with some secondhand, freebie tiles, these: https://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/Roofing/Clay-Tiles/Acme-Single-Camber-Clay-Plain-Tile.aspx Pitch is nom 30deg. Plan is some breathable roofing membrane first. What I can't figure is the detail at the gutter. Googling generic sections, some show the same thickness batten right down to the gutter. So the last tile is at a slightly greater angle than the ones above: Others show the last tile at a flatter angle, "kicked" up by the higher fascia board. At the mo he has the top of the fascia level with the top of the joists and planed off, along its top edge to the same angle. ??? Any pointers appreciated! Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennentslager Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 Double batten at the bottom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 You need to kick the bottom tile up, just to get it to the same angle as the others as it does not have a tile to sit on. some do that with double battens, some kick up the fascia boards and rest it on that. Take a trip to TP and buy some lengths of easy tray, a 1.5 metre long plastic strip with a formed rolled edge exceedingly cheap . This goes along the eaves and forms the entry into the gutter (not explained that very well) On a normal roof you would have an eaves vent strip as well, but probably not on an uninsulated shed roof. but it it's a proper insulated man cave then you want the eaves vent. Here is my roof. The fascia is set at the right height that together with the easy tray and the OV10 vent strip, the bottom tile is in line with the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 (edited) If you have any eaves tiles (which are shorter)... https://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/~/media/Files/CAD-files/Roofing/Plain-Tiles/Clay-Plain-Tile/360CPT35Pdf.PDF or https://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/~/media/Files/CAD-files/Roofing/Plain-Tiles/Clay-Plain-Tile/353CPT35Pdf.PDF It's well worth doing a mock up using a short length of fascia board, battens and gutter etc to work out exactly where everything needs to be. Fascia too low and the bottom tile droops at the wrong angle. Too high and any water running down the membrane can pool at the bottom. At least that's what I found could happen. It's also worth checking how the tile overhangs into the gutter as very easy to end up with water overshooting the gutter. PS Eaves tiles maintain the "double layer" waterproofing. eg water going through the gap between the bottom row is diverted to the outside rather than relying on the membrane. Drawing showing only one tile at the bottom only apply to interlocking tiles. Edited October 7, 2017 by Temp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 Thanks. Just digesting it all. Should have said that here the first thing on is supposed to be a row of half tiles if that impacts on the advice above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 Yes that's the eaves tiles. I used same at the ridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeSharp01 Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 As they are clay you will have a double row at the bottom with the lower ones as half tiles then one stretching back over it as a full tile to the next batten up @Temp links show this as does yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 Cheers all, he's gone for @Temp's first link. I cut the tilting fillets for him and ply strip. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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