JackofAll Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Windows arrived on site this morning, they fitted first one, before they did one of the guys mentioned that 10mm was max they could pack. So window goes in and theres a 15mm gap at head on one side 6mm on other. I forgot to drop the outside lintel 20mm(stupid I know) when blocking, anyhow, I know the little isn't 9mm off level as I checked. Should I accept this considering they did all the measurements for windows. The guys on site are suggesting cement board to pack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 Forgot to mention they packed it up 12mm (2mm over max) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 If the window is not square and level it will need refitting. What is the exterior finish and is it complete? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 If all window fitters stuck to this 10mm rule, there would hardly be a window installed in the country. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 2 hours ago, Mr Punter said: If the window is not square and level it will need refitting. What is the exterior finish and is it complete? Window is square and level, bare block outside, still to be plastered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 2 hours ago, Conor said: If all window fitters stuck to this 10mm rule, there would hardly be a window installed in the country. I guess,but it's a pita when it happens to yourself. To be fair the other two windows they put in were fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 3 minutes ago, JackofAll said: Window is square and level, bare block outside, still to be plastered. I am struggling to see what the issue is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Have you a sketch of the detail you are using? Did you use window boxes in the end? It may be a fortuitous opportunity to install some external EPS insulation over the window frames? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 20 hours ago, Mr Punter said: I am struggling to see what the issue is. Embarrassing, the lintel is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 If the blockwork is being rendered you could sort it with a render bead. We have rendered the underside of lintels by prepping with rend aid. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 20 hours ago, Iceverge said: Have you a sketch of the detail you are using? Did you use window boxes in the end? It may be a fortuitous opportunity to install some external EPS insulation over the window frames? Didn't go with premade boxes after. Will fit insitu, osb as I've loads left from covering window opes. 20/25 mm strip of eps around reveal before plastering? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: If the blockwork is being rendered you could sort it with a render bead. We have rendered the underside of lintels by prepping with rend aid. Will probably need to pack out with pir from the inside in order to have something to render to. The sliding door also has 12mm gap in the head. Peed off that i never thought to drop the lintels down 20mm as I made the outer leaf 40mm narrower for the frames to butt up against. Edited February 7 by JackofAll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 Ideally the frame exterior would be only directly on contact with insulation. It's a thermally weak part of the house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 3 hours ago, Iceverge said: Ideally the frame exterior would be only directly on contact with insulation. It's a thermally weak part of the house. Ah OK, too late for that now. They have fitted a compacfoam variant to the frames, not sure how much of a thermal break that is if even. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 It'll certainly help. Out of interest do you have any pictures as to how you're installing your windows? If they're still not in you could apply airtighess tape. It'll save much time later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted February 14 Author Share Posted February 14 On 07/02/2024 at 19:41, Iceverge said: It'll certainly help. Out of interest do you have any pictures as to how you're installing your windows? If they're still not in you could apply airtighess tape. It'll save much time later. Apologies for late response @Iceverge. So major F...up. The plan was as per one of your drawings below, based on windows being fixed with right angled brackets to inner side of outer leaf. Instead the crew fixed long straps bridging the cavity to inner leaf see pics. Now in the position that we cannot box out reveal due to the angle that the straps ar fitted. What are my options here, not adverse to getting them removed and re fitted. I imagine there are alot of cold bridges introduced as a result of strapping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted February 14 Author Share Posted February 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted February 14 Author Share Posted February 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Nothing unsalvageable. Any wider view of the windows, including an opening sash? Those straps won't be touching the outer leaf so I wouldn't fret too much about it. In any case point thermal bridges make minimal difference. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted February 14 Author Share Posted February 14 34 minutes ago, Iceverge said: Nothing unsalvageable. Any wider view of the windows, including an opening sash? Those straps won't be touching the outer leaf so I wouldn't fret too much about it. In any case point thermal bridges make minimal difference. Will take a couple of pics tomorrow as I've nothing encompassing the whole opening. As it stands due to having cut the inner leaf lower(to allow clearance for the sash to open) the osb will foul on the straps before reaching the window frame, top and bottom. Some windows are fixed pane so should be no issue if these straps I.e. top/bottom were removed. But the larger windows that do open there may be an issue due to the weight and twist over time. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 What window profiles are you using? Inward or outward opening sashes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted February 14 Author Share Posted February 14 (edited) 20 minutes ago, Iceverge said: What window profiles are you using? Inward or outward opening sashes? Inward Edited February 14 by JackofAll Omission Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Ok bear with me here's my suggested steps. Based on Larry O'Donougue's blog which has since disappeared. Step1. Draw an accurate line 20mm in from the edge of the window frame with a pencil. Tis will mark the edge of your tape and bead later. Below is a vertical cross section of your window. Step 2 Fit some Split back A/T tape to the line and the other side to an appropriate length of airtight membrane to reach into your inner leaf. Here's a zoom in of the corner. Step 3: Using SELF-DRILLING LOW PROFILE HEAD SCREWS 5.5MM X 19MM Screw a 12.5mm plasterboard metal end bead to the windows so that it lines up with the edge of the airtightness tape. The screw hole through the tape will seal ok. Your may need to predrill or at least centre punch the beads for accuracy. Step 4. Add mineral wool to fill the space behind the A/T membrane. Return the A/T membrane to the inner leaf and tape with fleece backed tape suitable for plastering over. The airtight membrane will sail over the straps, sealing them outside the A/T envelope. Step 5. Add plasterboard. Packing as required with dabs of adhesive to get it to the correct angle. Here's a zoomed out view. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 There may be an issue with the clearance being too tight on the sides of the windows with hinges and I'm unsure of your planned window board detail as it'd be very tight even with OSB window boxes when your frames only have 32mm clearance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Maybe @craig has a better detail. Also his expert eye might be able to judge the installers effort better than me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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