Tom Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 For a while I've felt the need to improve the dressing of the lead flashing below one of our roof lights. Trouble is, every time I knock the lead in to one of the corrugations, it pops out of the two either side. Any tips? I could put some weight (half a concrete block?) on the lead either side while I tap one of the corrugations in? Apply some heat? Thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeGrahamT21 Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Might be worth lifting it up, putting a strip of butyl tape on the corrugated sheet and then pushing it back and shape it.bit of heat would help this too if it’s not warm outside Double Sided Butyl Tape Used for Membrane Jointing, Waterproofing, Pond Liner Repair (50MM X 1.5MM X 10M) https://amzn.eu/d/2k52nAl Usually the windows with flashings come with this pre installed and you just peel the backing off and push it down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ETC Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Heat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeGrahamT21 Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 39 minutes ago, ETC said: Heat? To make it more malleable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Potter Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 8 hours ago, Tom said: Any tips? Lead at times is not that forgiving. The more you try and fix it.. the more of a hole you can dig for yourself. Don't use heat as you'll need a lot and could set light to the roof. Would foam fillers work for you! It's probably the wind driven rain / snow your worried about as your roof seems to be a pretty low pitch? Set the fillers back 25mm back from the end of the tile on dry day and wet the tiles with a hose, then see how far the water gets up. Once you have got the set back right then run a bead of silicon under the bottom of the fillers, not top and bottom. Try that as its a reversible process.. where as trying to reform the lead is not a it becomes work hardened. Have a look at the below and see if that might work for you. https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/lightweight-tile-eaves-foam-fillers-pair.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Stick it down. Our roofers were liberal with stixall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Potter Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 9 minutes ago, Conor said: Stick it down. Our roofers were liberal with stixall Look forward to your performance report in a few years. Keep us updated on that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ETC Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 (edited) Speak to the Lead Sheet Association. Edited January 13 by ETC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Potter Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 10 minutes ago, ETC said: Speak to the Lead Sheet Association. Read the attached first.. once you get a handle on the basics you may find the solution is staring you in the face. If this guide is not enough then you'll be much more informed when you call the lead association, they will appreciate that and will tend to recognise that you have made an effort yourself to solve the problem on your own... but just got stuck. Calder guide to leadwork -GTGLW-210213(5).pdf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 Thanks all, I think any adhesive - butyl tape or stixall etc - just wouldn't hold it down. Foam fillers would have worked, but only if I'd left the led flat I guess. Anyway, in the end I opted for some concrete blocks to hold down the valleys each side as I tapped down the corrugation with some wood and a lump hammer. Perhaps not 100% but a definite improvement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 20 hours ago, Gus Potter said: Read the attached first.. once you get a handle on the basics you may find the solution is staring you in the face. If this guide is not enough then you'll be much more informed when you call the lead association, they will appreciate that and will tend to recognise that you have made an effort yourself to solve the problem on your own... but just got stuck. Calder guide to leadwork -GTGLW-210213(5).pdf 6.15 MB · 4 downloads Just saw your post Gus! Many thanks, I'll have a read and see where I went wrong... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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