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Heat pumps and showers


Nic

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I appreciate the water pressure is key if running a shower with just a thermostatic control over an electric shower with a pump … 

but what other things do I need to consider when choosing a shower to run off either a hot water cylinder or electric heated? 
 only ever used a shower run via a combi boiler 

 

thanks in advance 

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If the mixer will run on a combi it will work from a cylinder. Assume if you are having a hat pump you will have an unvented cylinder? They like a balanced hot cold water water pressure and that's about it.

 

I went combi to heat pump, just had to adjust the mid point mixing temperature.

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29 minutes ago, Nic said:

No nothing built yet just trying to insure I have decent set up for showering 

Life is easy then.

Vented cylinder with an F&E tank, dual shower pump on the delivery side pumping to both taps.

Cheap and easy to install, no need for a plumber to inspect and sign it off.

Some will tell you that vented cylinders loose more heat, but no one has yet shown me how this happens.

They also tell me that an unvented cylinder delivers more hot water, but again, I have never seen an explanation.

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It sounds like OP is converting a house currently on a combi boiler? If so unvented cylinder is simpler as you can reuse the pipework as is, and no need to install any header tanks. 

Personally I also find tanks of water in the loft a waste of space and a manky idea (after finding a dead pigeon in one)

 

 

 

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You have not mentioned what is your mains water pressure and flow yet?

 

If good, then forget pumps, unvented HW tank any day will knock the socks off anything else for shower flow and pressure as long as the mains supply is good.

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47 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Life is easy then.

Vented cylinder with an F&E tank, dual shower pump on the delivery side pumping to both taps.

Cheap and easy to install, no need for a plumber to inspect and sign it off.

Some will tell you that vented cylinders loose more heat, but no one has yet shown me how this happens.

They also tell me that an unvented cylinder delivers more hot water, but again, I have never seen an explanation.

 

I'm not sure about the efficiency arguments but it's the size of storage tank you need as a minimum in the loft to feed a vented DHW cylinder when it's pumped that's the pain. Sometimes you simply can't fit them in the loft or through the hatch.

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6 minutes ago, SimonD said:

size of storage tank you need as a minimum in the loft to feed a vented DHW cylinder when it's pumped that's the pain

Yes.  Twice I have emptied mine, causing an airlock.

Very rare that the flow will be over 10 litres/min, and if it can refill at that rate, not so much of a problem.

Like all things, it has to be sized right.

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No nothing built yet ( new build ) and pressure not yet know. . just trying to insure I have decent set up for showering best course to go down as will not have gas at the new site solar and electric only ashp. Cylinder will be on ground floor 

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UVC with large heating coil, circa 3m2. Size to suit the property, heat to between 47 and 50 from heat pump. I heat mine at 6am on E7, takes 45 to 70 mins, depending on its start temp and a top up if required at mid-day.

 

Keep it simple. 

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