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What makes a wall light good quality?


puntloos

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Inside, the thing that seems to distinguish internal and external lighting quality is - strangely - the use of custom leds, in particular with cooling. (since the problem with all these standard bulbs is that they are crammed into a small enclosure, no cooling kills them)

 

But I want a simple up-and-down sconce, eg:

image.png.160134775b7c72e2e7bcd7c0b3f3f554.png

And even the expensive ones seem to house GU10 bulbs anyway. 

 

What do I look for to make sure they are "OK"? 

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I’ve never had any problems with the design killing GU10 bulbs in the past. 
 

They look like the Astro Dartmouth lights. We’ve gone with those both single and doubles in textured grey. They are very nicely made. 
 

https://www.keslighting.co.uk/astro-dartmouth-single-gu10-outdoor-wall-light-in-textured-grey-1372010.html

 

Edited by Kelvin
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16 minutes ago, Kelvin said:

I’ve never had any problems with the design killing GU10 bulbs in the past. 
 

They look like the Astro Dartmouth lights. We’ve gone with those both single and doubles in textured grey. They are very nicely made. 
 

https://www.keslighting.co.uk/astro-dartmouth-single-gu10-outdoor-wall-light-in-textured-grey-1372010.html

 

Yours seems to only downlight though, we'd prefer 'up' as well, at least in some areas.

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1 hour ago, puntloos said:

Yours seems to only downlight though, we'd prefer 'up' as well, at least in some areas.


They are both uplight and downlight (doubles) and downlight (single) It’s why we went for them as we are using the singles (downlight) in the single storey section and doubles (up and down) in the 1.5 storey section. 

 

I’m down the plot later so shall take some pictures for you. 

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1 hour ago, TonyT said:

The ability to fix a back plate and thrn

secure the light To the back plate.

 

all lights in my opinion should have a conduit box or architrave box fixing to make It easy to terminate cabling.. and get a secure fixing 


Yes the ones we bought are like that. 

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That’s hard to achieve in practice. We have very few interior wall lights because of the unflattering way they can light the walls. I actually loved the irregular brickwork that the outside lights highlighted in our previous house.

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I got these, very happy with them: https://www.screwfix.com/p/zinc-eos-outdoor-up-down-wall-light-anthracite/813fh

 

They do a single-direction one as well.

 

Chose them because they are diecast aluminium so won't rust. Quality is really high, feels really solid. Leagues apart from the steel LAP ones I got for a less-important project.

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18 hours ago, TonyT said:

The ability to fix a back plate and thrn

secure the light To the back plate.

 

all lights in my opinion should have a conduit box or architrave box fixing to make It easy to terminate cabling.. and get a secure fixing 

 

I modded cheap ones:

 

IMG_20210626_113048873

 

IMG_20210627_174430508

 

IMG_20210629_204511280

 

IMG_20210714_165207245[1]

 

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5 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

I modded cheap ones:

That's pretty industrial strength right there. I'm not 100% clear on the rasoning though - sure, if you literally try to drill plugs into insulation material (my walls are very 'fluffy' for that reason) they might start to come out much faster than you'd expect, but why would this additional piece of pipe not suffer the same problem?

Edited by puntloos
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23 minutes ago, puntloos said:

That's pretty industrial strength right there. I'm not 100% clear on the rasoning though - sure, if you literally try to drill plugs into insulation material (my walls are very 'fluffy' for that reason) they might start to come out much faster than you'd expect, but why would this additional piece of pipe not suffer the same problem?

 

Not sure I understand what you have wall wise? Could a heavy duty plastic conduit not perhaps support the light if properly glanded. Plastic wouldn't cause a cold bridge either?

 

Fill the tube round the cable with wonder gel etc. 

Edited by Onoff
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4 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Not sure I understand what you have wall wise? Could a heavy duty plastic conduit not perhaps support the light if properly glanded. Plastic wouldn't cause a cold bridge either?

 

Fill the tube round the cable with wonder gel etc. 

Perhaps I don't quite understand why you built the whole metal construction just to create a conduit box?

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19 minutes ago, puntloos said:

Perhaps I don't quite understand why you built the whole metal construction just to create a conduit box?

 

The black 100x100 steel is my sliding gate post. I wanted a downlight on it. I drilled the box and fitted a 20mm flexible conduit gland. Flexible conduit goes back to the control box where the power is.

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4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

The black 100x100 steel is my sliding gate post. I wanted a downlight on it. I drilled the box and fitted a 20mm flexible conduit gland. Flexible conduit goes back to the control box where the power is.

Is it finished ?

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IMG_1021.jpeg.df2ffff0267af7fe00f6ac80d39b182c.jpegIMG_1020.jpeg.b85a57d7022747093ef3e0e2d58cada0.jpegIMG_1022.jpeg.514247cf84fe3d83a65f0819a4db34ae.jpeg
 

The mounting holes have rubber grommets for the screws and the rest of seems well sealed against the rain. It’s certainly better made than what we had in the previous house and they never leaked. There’s a bit more wind driven rain here though. 

Edited by Kelvin
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49 minutes ago, Kelvin said:

 

The mounting holes have rubber grommets for the screws and the rest of seems well sealed against the rain. It’s certainly better made than what we had in the previous house and they never leaked. There’s a bit more wind driven rain here though. 

That's a nice attention to detail. I do hear that aluminium isn't great in rain though. How long have you had these?

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