Technical help needed re repainting Magnet kitchen doors and panels

[nmh]

Recently bought a Magnet Ludow kitchen where the doors are crafted using a '5mm ash - veneered chipboard centre panel to provide a visible woodgrain that feels raised to the touch...this highly durable door has a thickness of 20mm...and is made from largely responsibly sourced materials...'

 

We used a very reputable firm to respray the doors, drawers and panels RAL6009 (Fir green). They arrived back looking great but started to chip quite easily and after 3 months when we came to decorate, the decorators removed their 'delicate surface low tack Frogtape' and huge patches of the resprayed green came off. 

 

Resprayers say they roughed the original doors up with a 180 sand paper, added a coloured primer and then applied 3x coats of the new RAL. They've been super helpful and say they'll sort the issue but not sure they know how to stop it happening again. They say some of these Magnet kitchens are fired 'too hot or too quick' and this can cause issues when respraying. 

 

Everyone I speak to has a different approach but surely there's a best way to do this so the doors actually hold their colour and don't chip so easily. These doors are no doubt sealed when they come out of the factory (rather than oiled)? 

 

Is it the lacquer coming off too easily and this takes the sprayed paint with it? Someone else tells me sprayers can get their lacquer mixes easily wrong etc. 

 

Another potential painter told me '...sand through and spray lacquer and fill imperfections with an epoxy resin filler. Then apply Otex adhesive primer tinted to match colour and then 2 x full coats of a mixed finish in Tikkurilla semi furniture paint...' This would be a hand painted option.

 

But I genuinely can't see the wood for the trees and don't know what advice to follow. Anyone know the best route through this?

 

Photos attached.

 

Many thanks.

[Mr Punter]

Well the paint has failed to adhere so I can't see an option other than remove it, put up with it or buy new doors.

[SteamyTea]

Hard to tell what has gone wrong.

I suspect there is a chemistry mismatch. That may sound a bit vague, but what I mean is that say the original coating was a PU coating and the new stuff and as an epoxy (or the other way around) then you have to sand back to the original substrate.

New doors in the right colour would be safer.

[nod]

Our son vinyl raps cars as part of his business and decided to rap his kitchen doors and end panels 

Looks very impressive There must be others out there doing it 

[SteamyTea]

5 minutes ago, nod said:

decided to rap his kitchen doors and end panels 

That is a brilliant idea. Probably cheaper than paint.

I feel the old Blue Peter joke coming on about what has no arms and legs but sticks to the wall.

[nod]

2 hours ago, SteamyTea said:

That is a brilliant idea. Probably cheaper than paint.

I feel the old Blue Peter joke coming on about what has no arms and legs but sticks to the wall.

He did it a Matt black Said it cost him about a hundred pounds 

He said compared to rapping a full car it was easy Most of the better quality raps will follow the molding's when heated 

[nod]

35 minutes ago, nod said:

He did it a Matt black Said it cost him about a hundred pounds 

He said compared to rapping a full car it was easy Most of the better quality raps will follow the molding's when heated 

While I don’t have a picture of his kitchen Here’s a car wrap he did for a mate of mine 

[joe90]

At a car show I went to a fella told me his kit car was wrapped and cost a third of the cost of spraying and it looked very good.

[SteamyTea]

8 hours ago, nod said:

Here’s a car wrap he did for a mate of mine

Drug dealer is he?

Next time you are there, ask how the wall mounted heat pump is working.

8 hours ago, nod said:

 

Edited November 6, 2023 by SteamyTea

[nod]

1 hour ago, SteamyTea said:

Drug dealer is he?

Next time you are there, ask how the wall mounted heat pump is working.

 

Afghan Kebab factory next door 😁

[JohnMo]

17 hours ago, nmh said:

They've been super helpful and say they'll sort the issue but not sure they know how to stop it happening again

I would take up their offer, which should be free, they will not want you coming back again, so should use a different, possibly a high adhesion primer.

 

Looks like the primer has just sat on top of the factory coating, instead of bonding to it. Hence coming off easily.

 

Any other option is going cost your back pocket, and may end up in the same place.

 

Painted kitchen doors even when factory done, do chip and scratch, they will say it has patena.

[nmh]

The guys that did the spray are saying

'...The doors were keyed, they had - 1 x under coat. 2 x top coat. 

Under coat was: industrial.sherwin-williams.com/emeai/gb/en/industrial-wood/catalog/product/industrial-wood-coatings/products-by-industry.14502508/care-primer-df1324.15112256.html 

Top coat was: www.hmgpaint.com/products/wood-finish/topcoat/477/acid-cat-mb-colours 

On the 2nd coat we got bad reactions with the paint cracking. Some doors then needed sanding right back and having extra duster coats to help stop the reaction.
Sometimes in the past this has happened with finished doors.
Some off the shelf doors are cured in ovens with ultra violet lights for speed, this process can make it hard to overcoat no matter how you prepare the surface...'

Does this make sense to anyone? 

[Alan Ambrose]

They can experiment on a single door of course to see if they can find a paint scheme that works.