Help me out of these holes, please!

[ToughButterCup]

2 minutes ago, Onoff said:

For what it's worth I don't reckon there's a cats chance in hell of wet concrete bending those to the extent you cant get them out.

[...]

Can you, in some cases draw them out so far as to get say an M10 stud in from the other side to use to drift the M12 out and not get stuck itself?

 

You might be right. 

The wet concrete wasn't the problem: it's the distance the concrete had to fall before  reaching the bar that may have been the issue (2 meters or so). A good slug of concrete dropping two meters is quite a force. But even if I'm right, that doesn't explain why two threaded bars next to one another - exact same distance for the concrete to fall , one is not bent and so extracts fine, the other sits there and sneers. Occasionally the impact driver did manage to extract bent bars. (About 10 in all)

 

Wrapping the bars in anything other than oil -in the time available- wasn't possible. 

 

In relation to the M10 against the M12, I'll give that a try, even if  all I manage to do is encapsulate the metal inside the ICF (so it cannot become a cold bridge). If I can get it out, though, I will

[Onoff]

31 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said:

 

You might be right. 

The wet concrete wasn't the problem: it's the distance the concrete had to fall before  reaching the bar that may have been the issue (2 meters or so). A good slug of concrete dropping two meters is quite a force. But even if I'm right, that doesn't explain why two threaded bars next to one another - exact same distance for the concrete to fall , one is not bent and so extracts fine, the other sits there and sneers. Occasionally the impact driver did manage to extract bent bars. (About 10 in all)

 

Wrapping the bars in anything other than oil -in the time available- wasn't possible. 

 

In relation to the M10 against the M12, I'll give that a try, even if  all I manage to do is encapsulate the metal inside the ICF (so it cannot become a cold bridge). If I can get it out, though, I will

 

I wonder if, looking from along the scaffold you could gauge what way the stud is bent if that's the case. Then, if there's enough sticking out, slip over a heavy gauge "tube" and lever in the opposite direction to put it under pressure to straighten out a bit. Maybe this with a combination of knocking from the other side.

 

Try scaffold tube but thinking something smaller diameter but still a thick wall...trolley jack handle?

[PeterW]

Right... have you got an SDS drill...?? 

 

Stick an old sds chisel or drill bit into an old socket and weld it on so you have a cup on the end of an SDS adapter. Doesn't need to be pretty...

 

Stick the SDS into the drill, whack it onto hammer only and basically use it to whack the stud out of the hole - the SDS action will be enough to move it as its a small vibration....

[ToughButterCup]

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

Right... have you got an SDS drill...?? [...]

 

Have I got an SDS+ drill indeed!

I polish it every night and put it on the bedside table to admire it - so I can see it first thing in the morning. Well, second thing.

 

Brilliant idea. Now all I need is no ManFlu.

[ToughButterCup]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

I wonder if, looking from along the scaffold you could gauge what way the stud is bent if that's the case. Then, if there's enough sticking out, slip over a heavy gauge "tube" and lever in the opposite direction to put it under pressure to straighten out a bit. Maybe this with a combination of knocking from the other side.

 

Try scaffold tube but thinking something smaller diameter but still a thick wall...trolley jack handle?

 

You are on to something there.

Some of the remaining threaded bar exits the wall at a slight angle: the cue for bending it the opposite way methinks.....

Now all I need is no ManFlu