Metal framing: which infill timber for doorways?

[Dreadnaught]

I am currently doing my MF internal walls, GYPROC Metal C.Stud 70S50 (70mm). 

 

What have people used as the timber piece in the uprights. I tried Travis Perkin's C16 38mm x 63mm x 2.4m but it doesn't quite fit. Otherwise I can only find online treated battens of 50 x 25mm (i.e. roofing battens) or expensive PSE at 44 x 22.5 mm.

 

What timber have others used in their doorways? @nod?

 

 

 

 

 

[Conor]

We used 25x50mm battens 

[Dreadnaught]

7 minutes ago, Conor said:

We used 25x50mm battens

Thanks @Conor. The fact that they are treated and you are using them inside your dwelling isn't a concern?

[Kelvin]

There’s been studies done on this and there’s no risk 

[saveasteading]

2 hours ago, Dreadnaught said:

using them inside your dwelling isn't a concern

Only a concern if you are a woodworm moth looking for nice new timber. As long as it isnt still wet from the treatment process it is fine to use.

Why online? This should be available at bm, and diy stores.  You can then ensure it is a decent quality for knots and straightness.

 

[nod]

Battens are to thin 

You can buy door Timbers that are cut to width Push them in then tap them against a solid wall 

I normally by them by the pack with the metal 

But they will sell individually Just count your doors up 

Sold in 2.4 lengths 

[Dreadnaught]

17 minutes ago, nod said:

You can buy door Timbers that are cut to width

 

Thanks @nod. What dimension timbers should I buy for 70mm C-studs?

[Mike]

5 hours ago, Dreadnaught said:

GYPROC Metal C.Stud 70S50 (70mm). 

 

What have people used as the timber piece in the uprights.

I cut my own to size from a sheet of 15mm plywood - 2 layers screwed together to make 30mm. Then added a 70mm rail to the back of the stud to turn it into a box for additional strength. With the gap between the ply and the rail filled with some Ilbruck FM330 foam to dampen the acoustic transmission.

[Dreadnaught]

8 hours ago, Mike said:

Then added a 70mm rail to the back of the stud to turn it into a box for additional strength

 

That's an interesting approach. Another way to make a box could be to use another section of track as a cloak for the stud, as is used with wider spans.

[Dreadnaught]

What purpose does the timber inside the stud serve at a door frame?

 

Is it just to give something to screw in to, as I had assumed?

Or is it to add rigidity, to allow for a heavy door on the hinge side?

And/or to stop vibration as a door slams?

[Mike]

11 hours ago, Dreadnaught said:

20 hours ago, Mike said:

Then added a 70mm rail to the back of the stud to turn it into a box for additional strength

 

That's an interesting approach.

For heavy doors, it's the recommended method for the system I'm using (the French Siniat system). But different systems do have different recommendations, and UK & French recommendations diverge in places too.

 

11 hours ago, Dreadnaught said:

What purpose does the timber inside the stud serve at a door frame?

I'm adding it to provide an enhanced fixing for the door frame, though it would contribute to rigidity too. Over here there's no recommendation to use a timber insert at all (nor the rail, for lightweight domestic doors), but I'm not happy fixing a door frame only to metal, and the doors won't be lightweight.