HughF Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 Fitting some standard uPVC in a couple of weeks, would the following shopping list be ok: Straps/brackets to fit the profile 5-10mm compriband to go round the outside edge FM330 foam (1 box of, gun grade) to go behind the compriband, shot through with a long nozzle from the back Airtightness tape for the inside, window to cav closer, closer inner edge to blockwork - assuming Illbruck ME316 (as that's what doortech direct sell) Not going all out nuts on this extension, but want to do this correctly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 How are you fixing the straps? Concrete screws? Also a spare sds drill bit wouldn't go amiss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted July 14, 2023 Author Share Posted July 14, 2023 5 minutes ago, bassanclan said: How are you fixing the straps? Concrete screws? Also a spare sds drill bit wouldn't go amiss. Yeah, I've got all that already... I was just looking at the window specific/airtightness stuff. I usually just screw the frames in with frame fixings and foam them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 paging @craig, could I forgo the fm330 and the standard compriband and just use TP654? I guess I would still need to seal back with me508 from the face, over the closer, and back to the inner skin of blockwork? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 4 minutes ago, HughF said: paging @craig, could I forgo the fm330 and the standard compriband and just use TP654? I guess I would still need to seal back with me508 from the face, over the closer, and back to the inner skin of blockwork? With TP654, you will not need any FM330 or ME508 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 Just now, craig said: With TP654, you will not need any FM330 or ME508 😉 Interesting, would this be the way to go, in your opinion? Windows going into new blockwork with bang on widths (brickies have done an excellent job). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 TP654 is an all-in-one product, the airtightness layer is interwoven. Yes, it is easier to apply and less work and does the same job but a little bit more expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 Should I pick the narrowest width stuff so it doesn’t interfere with my fixing brackets/straps? I’m using uPVC from deceuninck (sp) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 Blimey, not cheap is it.... I need 40m of tape to go all round my windows and doors... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 Just now, HughF said: Blimey, not cheap is it.... I need 40m of tape to go all round my windows and doors... I have bought it from ebay before and it was a fair bit cheaper. Make sure you get the Illbruck Compriband. Some of the imitations are rubbish and turn to crumb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 11 minutes ago, HughF said: Blimey, not cheap is it.... I need 40m of tape to go all round my windows and doors... Not really but TP654 comes in 58/66/72/77/83/88mm depths, get the size appropriate to the depth of frame being used. The width is dependant on your tolerance allowance, a 10mm tolerance should mean you get 6-15mm. Which basically means that on the roll it is 6mm thick, it will expand to 15mm and still be within guarantee (it will expand past this but without guarantee). If you need 10-25mm then choose this product. 88/10-25 for example is depth, then size on roll and then what it will expand to and be within guarantee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 I gapped my windows for 5mm all round.... will I be able to jam the 6mm in that gap or should I take a track saw and cut the sides off the frames? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 I'm sure its just me, but i was recently on a site with a £70k window install from a company named quite often on here. The windows were fitted and then a guy came a couple of days later with a van full of what looked like self adhesive draft excluder. He gave me a bit and i had a good squeze etc. Once it was fitted, which was basically done with a flat filling blade, i thought it looked shite. The windows were in a light green, the brickwork red. The 10mm + wide tape looked shocking. A week later it still hadn't expanded to meet the wobbly hand made bricks down either side of the windows. IMO how is that an effective air seal. I will be doing my usual. Sealing all around the front with a 10mm deep frame sealer. Covering that with a 3mm thick glued on plastic strip, matching the window. Filled from behind with foam. Foam cut back, and another bead of silicon around the inside. This is covered on the inside by the plasterboard, and skim. I know it's not the "right way", but works for me. I have got great airtest results with this method. Air sealing tape, and that expanding draft excluder cost 1/2 as much as the bloody windows. Chances are that cheap (not that anything is cheap these day) UPVC windows will leak anyway. This post is @pocster 's chance to call me a bodger. It will make a change from me having a go at him. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 17 hours ago, HughF said: I gapped my windows for 5mm all round.... will I be able to jam the 6mm in that gap or should I take a track saw and cut the sides off the frames? They do a 3mm-7mm tape but you may find it easier / cheaper to use a low modulus silicone sealant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeSharp01 Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 1 hour ago, Big Jimbo said: Once it was fitted, which was basically done with a flat filling blade, i thought it looked shite. That was 'Compriband' alright I don't think it available in anything but black. Ours looks great - but we have quartz grey windows and black cladding so it works for us. It seems to be the standard process for the standard PH type windows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted July 19, 2023 Author Share Posted July 19, 2023 I've got white windows, and will run the render up to the windows on the outside, so any foam tape will be hidden from view. Although why can't I just gun them in with foam? Surely that's better, as it's closed cell and will bond to the window and the blockwork? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted July 19, 2023 Author Share Posted July 19, 2023 Hmmm, window fixing straps that fit my profile seem a bit short at only 150mm long... that's a bit close for comfort with a 150 cavity. Are there any universal fixing brackets available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig Posted July 20, 2023 Share Posted July 20, 2023 TP600 is what you need with Fm330 and ME508, TP654 will not work for a 5mm gap. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted July 24, 2023 Author Share Posted July 24, 2023 TP600 (in two different thicknesses, for upstairs retrofit and downstairs new install), FM330 (12 cans, I'll use it somewhere else, I'm sure) and ME508 (in two widths) ordered.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted August 1, 2023 Author Share Posted August 1, 2023 Update….. as I had gapped the windows to be ‘nice and tight’, and as three of them were retrofit (didn’t want to remove too much internal reveal plaster), I didn’t use the me508. Used a mixture of 13-25 and 3-7 Compriband, positioned mid-frame in the channel where the brackets would go. 330 foam where I could see daylight after the Compriband expanded. BCO came today and seemed happy… didn’t care about the lack of trickle vents on the extension windows (we did say we were fitting dMVHR), didn’t even comment on the position related to the cavity 🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted August 1, 2023 Author Share Posted August 1, 2023 If I was doing this again I would use the 625 duo foam tape, width to suit the channel in the side of the pvc profile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted August 1, 2023 Author Share Posted August 1, 2023 Edit: 654 duo.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now