Slate Trim

[vfrdave]

Looking some guidance for the verges on my roof.  I am hoping to use the Kytun dry verge trims which a number here have used already @dogman @Barney12 @JSHarris.  I am trying to work out how these should be installed in relation to tile battens.  We don't have any fascia and soffit with the hope being that we would render gable ends up to the underside of the kytun trim.  Any installation guidance I have seen shows the trims installed on top of the tile battens, which is fine if then fitting a fascia board.  In my case this would leave the gable walls with visible battens and then the tile trim.

 

How should this be detailed to allow for rendering gables?

 

Thanks in advance.

[Jeremy Harris]

They do different versions, and some cover flush batten ends: http://www.kytun.com/p/slate-dry-verge-alu-t2-25mm-black-24m/c02nbl

[vfrdave]

Thanks @JSHarris don't know how I managed to miss that one, looks like it should do the job.  Just need to work out render depth to tie it all in as near flush as possible.

[Barney12]

1 hour ago, vfrdave said:

Looking some guidance for the verges on my roof.  I am hoping to use the Kytun dry verge trims which a number here have used already @dogman @Barney12 @JSHarris.  I am trying to work out how these should be installed in relation to tile battens.  We don't have any fascia and soffit with the hope being that we would render gable ends up to the underside of the kytun trim.  Any installation guidance I have seen shows the trims installed on top of the tile battens, which is fine if then fitting a fascia board.  In my case this would leave the gable walls with visible battens and then the tile trim.

 

How should this be detailed to allow for rendering gables?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Sorry, you've lost me on the detail you're describing.

There is no option other than fixing to the battens. You can set them out from the gable end (or facia face) by a varied distance as long as you don't impede the built in drip profile. What you put "under" the profile could be anything from timber facia to cement board, EML etc.

[dpmiller]

the drip bead needs to be exposed I believe.

[vfrdave]

2 hours ago, Barney12 said:

 

Sorry, you've lost me on the detail you're describing.

There is no option other than fixing to the battens. You can set them out from the gable end (or facia face) by a varied distance as long as you don't impede the built in drip profile. What you put "under" the profile could be anything from timber facia to cement board, EML etc.

This is the look I am after Before Rendering and After Rendering.  This uses the version that @JSHarris I had not realised that version existed, despite it being quite obvious on their website.  The version I referenced did no hide the batten ends as it has no downstand (if that is the right descriptor).

[Barney12]

50 minutes ago, vfrdave said:

This is the look I am after Before Rendering and After Rendering.  This uses the version that @JSHarris I had not realised that version existed, despite it being quite obvious on their website.  The version I referenced did no hide the batten ends as it has no downstand (if that is the right descriptor).

 

Ah got it! Glad its sorted.

[worldwidewebs]

We used Kytun dry verge and I'm not that impressed with it. I like the idea but the Kytun stuff is really thin and there's no easy/neat way to join long lengths

[Jeremy Harris]

1 minute ago, worldwidewebs said:

We used Kytun dry verge and I'm not that impressed with it. I like the idea but the Kytun stuff is really thin and there's no easy/neat way to join long lengths

 

 

There is a neat way to join it.  There are instructions on how to trim the joins so that they fit together neatly with a clean overlap.  I will admit that I had to show our roofers how to do this, and I also had to lend them my left and right hand aviation snips (without those you will struggle to cut the alloy neatly), but once I'd shown them how to do one join they did all the remaining joins quickly and neatly.  The secret is to cut the material exactly as shown on the instructions, using very sharp, handed, snips, so there is no distortion at the cuts.

[worldwidewebs]

1 minute ago, JSHarris said:

There is a neat way to join it.  There are instructions on how to trim the joins so that they fit together neatly with a clean overlap.  I will admit that I had to show our roofers how to do this, and I also had to lend them my left and right hand aviation snips (without those you will struggle to cut the alloy neatly), but once I'd shown them how to do one join they did all the remaining joins quickly and neatly.  The secret is to cut the material exactly as shown on the instructions, using very sharp, handed, snips, so there is no distortion at the cuts.

 

Interesting - we had no instructions so maybe that was the problem! I still think it's too thin though. We have a LOT of aluminium on the house and the dry verge is by far the weakest link

[Jeremy Harris]

The secret is to make the small triangular cut that's shown on figure 4 of these instructions (this bit applies to all the slate dry verge systems): http://www.kytun.com/v4/501b5369-a8d0-477f-97cd-4a81668870fc/uploads/Kytun - Dry Verge Fixing.pdf

 

As the instructions say, highlighted in red:

 

Quote

Please note that sheet metal cutters should always be used to cut the trim. Use protective gloves when handling to avoid injury from sharp edges.

 

Edited August 16, 2017 by JSHarris

[Barney12]

24 minutes ago, worldwidewebs said:

 

Interesting - we had no instructions so maybe that was the problem! I still think it's too thin though. We have a LOT of aluminium on the house and the dry verge is by far the weakest link

 

I agree it is very thin and as you put it on ahead of the slating I was completely paranoid about it getting damaged. It also scratches if you so much as look at it the wrong way. 

However, from the ground it does look good and in theory will never really get touched.