Dry lining and end on board joints.

[MikeSharp01]

I am about to start boarding out the garden room with dry lining board. In a couple if places the runs are greater than the 2 400mm and so I will have to form end on joints. The question is how to finish these joints using a dry lining approach. Side to side joins are easy because of the thinning of the board edges but when jointing end on no such provision is obvious so any tape will be quite proud and I am worried the joint will be visible. Any suggestions? Can you get boards with thinned edges all round?

Edited August 14, 2017 by jack
Merged duplicate threads

[Onoff]

Is this on the ceiling? I've a similar issue in the bathroom (where else? ). Think there was a thread on here about similar a while back. 

 

 

Bit here about it:

 

I like the idea of a thinner batten at the joints to "bend" the ends in a bit.

Edited August 14, 2017 by Onoff

[ProDave]

The normal tapers just put filler over the joint spread 100mm or so either side so it can be sanded to a barely perceivable "bump"

 

Plastering will give a better finish and that's what we want (if we can afford it)

[Pete]

Google trim tex buttboard

[MikeSharp01]

Thanks all. @Pete Buttboard would work in most places but I like the thin batten idea from @Onoff although it does mean having extra batten's close in to the join so as to prevent and 800mm wide dip to fill.

[nod]

As Dave pointed out Its normal to tape the butt joints You will need to feather 250 either side of the joint The majority of tapers use fibre tape now I still prefer to use paper tape on these joints

much better finish

i regularly price both slimed finish and taped Labour costs are about the same and not a great deal of difference in material

ps Don't forget to sand the joint filler before applying two Seperate coats of joint cement

 

good luck