Fixing kitchen wall units to thick dot and dab on masonry

[Moonshine]

What is the best way to fix the wall hung brackets to dot and dab on aggregate masonry blocks (not aerated blocks)?

 

standard rawl plugs in the masonry and long screws?

Edited May 23, 2023 by Moonshine

[TonyT]

Is the wall already dabbed?

 

[Moonshine]

Just now, TonyT said:

Is the wall already dabbed?

 

 

yes, plasterboarded

[Dave Jones]

im a fan of the hammer fixings, use them to fix stud to blockwork and they hold very firm.

 

https://www.toolstation.com/fischer-hammer-in-fixing/p65723

 

[Big Jimbo]

Having fitted several hundred kitchens for my sins, i always cut out the plasterboard and glue and screw ply back to the wall. 18mm usually brings me roughly flush with the plasterboard. You can seal around these if you need to re airtightness etc. Any thing else is a bit of a bodge. Ok if they are tall units, sitting on the floor, but not wall cabs. You start loading those cabs with a load of tins..... Over time your cabs will move down the wall. The first inch of your screw regardless how long is unsupported. Not a good idea.

[Moonshine]

7 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said:

18mm usually brings me roughly flush with the plasterboard. You can seal around these if you need to re airtightness etc. Any thing else is a bit of a bodge. Ok if they are tall units, sitting on the floor, but not wall cabs. You start loading those cabs with a load of tins..... Over time your cabs will move down the wall. The first inch of your screw regardless how long is unsupported. Not a good idea.

 

Sounds like a good idea to support the screws, my dot and dab is pretty think so it may be a couple of layers of ply will be needed to get it pretty flush to the plasterboard lining.

 

once you have the ply on the wall, how do you fix the cabinet, screw into the ply, or go all the way though the ply to the masonry with the hammer type fixings?

[Lofty718]

Use corefix fixings from screw fix. Best fixings for dot and dab.

[Canski]

29 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said:

Having fitted several hundred kitchens for my sins, i always cut out the plasterboard and glue and screw ply back to the wall. 18mm usually brings me roughly flush with the plasterboard. You can seal around these if you need to re airtightness etc. Any thing else is a bit of a bodge. Ok if they are tall units, sitting on the floor, but not wall cabs. You start loading those cabs with a load of tins..... Over time your cabs will move down the wall. The first inch of your screw regardless how long is unsupported. Not a good idea.

Would it not be easier to fix the ply to the wall prior to plastering ? saves chopping off the bonding and the mess ?

[Big Jimbo]

3 minutes ago, Canski said:

Would it not be easier to fix the ply to the wall prior to plastering ? saves chopping off the bonding and the mess ?

Yes, but it is often missed.

[Big Jimbo]

@Moonshine Provided your ply is well fixed to the wall, just woodscrews into the ply. If your dot and dab is thick, even more reason to cut it out, as any other way even more of your screw is unsupported.

[MikeRG]

On 23/05/2023 at 10:11, Lofty718 said:

Use corefix fixings from screw fix. Best fixings for dot and dab.

 

Second this!  Love these fixings for dot and dabbed walls!