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Opinions on best way to drop a ceiling


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2 hours ago, Eric said:

Not to derail the thread but do you have any photos of this Nick?

I have a kitchen & family room 10m x 7m with double JJI joists @ 400centres, I was actually wondering about fitting plywood before plasterboard?

image.thumb.png.45e757e24a091281a6c27accb0f8287a.png

 

This is a pic of my current MBC TF project, and this shows the counter-battens that MBC installed, perpendicular to the joists above (hidden by the membrane but you can see where the membrane is quilted where it was first stapled to them). 

This extra 'bracing' is achieved just as simply as affixing 25x50mm counter-battens (larger of the 2 two common roofing battens) to the underside of the bottom chord. There's zero rocket-science :)  

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2 hours ago, Eric said:

family room

Maybe consider doing the same cheat, but instead of the timbers you can use resilient bars? That will tighten up the joists, just enough (you don't need to go mad), and offer a '2-birds 1 stone' upgrade and gain some additional acoustic control. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Please forgive this potentially noddy question but do I need a specific type of screw to attach the GL8 to the timber frame? Or do I pilot hole the track and then just use standard timber screws?

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19 hours ago, TonyT said:

You get screws with a drill tip, so you don’t pre drill

google gyproc screws

I bought these from Screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-pz-wafer-self-tapping-screws-8ga-x-1-2-100-pack/8979h and they do the job but they're quite hard to get to screw in! I need to apply quite a bit of pressure which is tricky when you're up a ladder trying to hold a GL1 channel and the GL12 bracket and a screw and the drill! would the 'official' Gyproc screws be any easier? https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/gypframe-wafer-head-drywall-screw-fixings-13mm-l-chrome-PRTBG692#

 

or would they be exactly the same as the Easydrive ones from SF?

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The official ones tend to be better. Sharper points and fins.

Its worth having a few quality heads too. Boarders go through a lot so it must be important, and that's why you can buy a big pack of them. 25 dewalts. How flash is that?

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58 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

The official ones tend to be better. Sharper points and fins.

Its worth having a few quality heads too. Boarders go through a lot so it must be important, and that's why you can buy a big pack of them. 25 dewalts. How flash is that?

I have new Dewalt heads. Will see if I can get some Gyproc screws local tomorrow morning. Although I guess I can make a start on a different room and wait for mail order delivery. 

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4 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

That hanger system seems to have made the job easier than with timber. Quite pleasing on the old OCD, lol.

yeah. it was really simple. I'm definitely an MF convert for ceilings! yet to try walls though.

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qq. I've made the shadow gap similar to how @MortarThePoint drew it. how would I finish off the plasterboard edge that forms the shadow gap (circled in red in the drawing taken from @MortarThePoint's drawing)

 

image.thumb.png.9f61eae11a3dcae11732232534fdfcd5.png

 

it's just raw plasterboard with no covering. I need something on the end to 'finish' it as surely can't just leave it as open plasterboard!!

 

IMG_5164.jpeg.f4f43c819e1f031ab96ed0f84547dff8.jpeg

Edited by Thorfun
added photo
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19 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

qq. I've made the shadow gap similar to how @MortarThePoint drew it. how would I finish off the plasterboard edge that forms the shadow gap (circled in red in the drawing taken from @MortarThePoint's drawing)

 

image.thumb.png.9f61eae11a3dcae11732232534fdfcd5.png

 

it's just raw plasterboard with no covering. I need something on the end to 'finish' it as surely can't just leave it as open plasterboard!!

 

IMG_5164.jpeg.f4f43c819e1f031ab96ed0f84547dff8.jpeg

ok. so it's called an edge bead! available in metal or plastic

 

https://www.ccfltd.co.uk/plastering-beads-and-mesh/british-gypsum-gyproc-drywall-metal-edge-bead-12-5mm-x-2400mm/p/850434

https://www.ccfltd.co.uk/plastering-beads-and-mesh/british-gypsum-gyproc-drywall-plastic-edge-bead-12-5mm-x-3000mm/p/850000

https://www.ccfltd.co.uk/plastering-beads-and-mesh/expamet-plasterboard-edging-bead-13mm-x-3000mm/p/987960

 

🙂 

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2 hours ago, Thorfun said:

qq. I've made the shadow gap similar to how @MortarThePoint drew it. how would I finish off the plasterboard edge that forms the shadow gap (circled in red in the drawing taken from @MortarThePoint's drawing)

 

image.thumb.png.9f61eae11a3dcae11732232534fdfcd5.png

 

it's just raw plasterboard with no covering. I need something on the end to 'finish' it as surely can't just leave it as open plasterboard!!

 

IMG_5164.jpeg.f4f43c819e1f031ab96ed0f84547dff8.jpeg

Look's good, You putting shadow gap in every room? 

 

The MD at my work has just had a place built, no self building there, has shadow gap along the floor, so no skirting, but coloured LED strips lighting the way.  His daughter who will inherit has got it all connected up with sensors, showed me a video, looks good.

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40 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

Look's good, You putting shadow gap in every room? 

In the kids rooms, tv room and around a canopy over our bed. It’s definitely not as easy as just boarding straight to the wall!

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On 06/07/2023 at 17:39, Thorfun said:

not bad for a first effort even if I do say so myself.

 

IMG_5139.jpeg.9aa7b463176ab9d3e3ced432c4363d9d.jpeg

 

IMG_5142.jpeg.529a762b12428dbf815bb4ee690dad9e.jpeg

and now with the void filled with 100mm Rockwool RWA45. all ready for boarding. 🙂 

 

image.jpeg.e8b057c92bfd62585e59eb1c1b2744ac.jpeg

 

now I need to figure out how to build the dropped ceiling canopy over our bed!

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