Lift span Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 Hello! I'm looking at two options for closing the vertical (jamb) and overhead cavity in the extension design below: Timber or Compacfoam 200. Has anyone any experience of doing either? The triple track sliding door frame is over 180mm wide and needs fixing all round so a standard cavity closer won't work. The timber is cheap and easy and I was thinking of wrapping it in DPC to avoid rot from condensation in the cavity. Compacfoam is expensive and I have no experience of using it. Timber Vertical: Overhead: (Angle Lintel is a separate galvanised section): Compacfoam 200: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeGrahamT21 Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 Are you not able to use fixing clips off of the frame for top and sides to the inner leaf? They should just be to stop movement, and not actually load bearing, all of the load should be on the bottom. http://aluminiumwindows.co.uk/blog/strap-fix-fit-bifold-doors/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lift span Posted February 21, 2023 Author Share Posted February 21, 2023 I'd not thought of fixing clips! Maybe that is an option. The window supplier is saying they need fixings straight through the frame though. 54 minutes ago, MikeGrahamT21 said: Are you not able to use fixing clips off of the frame for top and sides to the inner leaf? They should just be to stop movement, and not actually load bearing, all of the load should be on the bottom. http://aluminiumwindows.co.uk/blog/strap-fix-fit-bifold-doors/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miek Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 1 hour ago, MikeGrahamT21 said: Are you not able to use fixing clips off of the frame for top and sides to the inner leaf? They should just be to stop movement, and not actually load bearing, all of the load should be on the bottom. http://aluminiumwindows.co.uk/blog/strap-fix-fit-bifold-doors/ This is how I fixed my big sliding door too. But the manufacturers may take a different view which might affect the warranty so worth checking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lift span Posted February 21, 2023 Author Share Posted February 21, 2023 3 minutes ago, Miek said: This is how I fixed my big sliding door too. But the manufacturers may take a different view which might affect the warranty so worth checking. Thanks. Did you fix into steel, block or timber at the jambs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miek Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 1 hour ago, Lift span said: Thanks. Did you fix into steel, block or timber at the jambs? Into the block outer skin. I have a 300mm cavity so hanging on the outer skin made sense for me but it depends on your cavity width and placement of the window within the cavity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeGrahamT21 Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 Yeah that article I linked kind of goes into that a bit and perhaps suggests they just take the easiest approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted February 23, 2023 Share Posted February 23, 2023 On 21/02/2023 at 13:07, Lift span said: I'd not thought of fixing clips! Maybe that is an option. The window supplier is saying they need fixings straight through the frame though. thats because they are lazy. Massive cold bridge more than negating the poor U value the door is already. Insist they strap them. Compriband to weather seal, no silicone (also has terrible U value). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lift span Posted May 18, 2023 Author Share Posted May 18, 2023 (edited) Just to update this, I went with the Compacfoam in the end. In the jambs and overhead (see picture below). I've wrapped DPC around the jambs so you can't see it! I'm now deciding what to use under the threshold to sit the doors on. I was thinking of compacfoam again but I found out about Bosig Phonotherm 200. Has anyone used it? It seems similar to compacfoam but it's available in bigger wider sheets: Edited May 18, 2023 by Lift span Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted May 18, 2023 Share Posted May 18, 2023 On 21/02/2023 at 13:07, Lift span said: I'd not thought of fixing clips! Maybe that is an option. The window supplier is saying they need fixings straight through the frame though. Nothing for them to fix through if the window is set back where it should be in the cavity where the insulation is. Straps are the only way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lift span Posted May 18, 2023 Author Share Posted May 18, 2023 They can fix into the compacfoam. They've been around and surveyed it already. It's solid stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackofAll Posted May 18, 2023 Share Posted May 18, 2023 2 hours ago, Lift span said: Just to update this, I went with the Compacfoam in the end. In the jambs and overhead (see picture below). I've wrapped DPC around the jambs so you can't see it! I'm now deciding what to use under the threshold to sit the doors on. I was thinking of compacfoam again but I found out about Bosig Phonotherm 200. Has anyone used it? It seems similar to compacfoam but it's available in bigger wider sheets: Am due to use it whenever we get that far, quite expensive, the sheets in Germany appear to be far bigger than what's on sale here in Ireland. Can't seem to get an online price in Germany either. Not much help other than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lift span Posted May 18, 2023 Author Share Posted May 18, 2023 Yes, it's expensive. I'm wondering if I should just cut some aircrete blocks down and use them as the 50mm lift I need instead. A lot cheaper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeGrahamT21 Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 11 hours ago, Lift span said: Yes, it's expensive. I'm wondering if I should just cut some aircrete blocks down and use them as the 50mm lift I need instead. A lot cheaper! The cavity looks rather slim, a bit too slim really, how did you manage that whilst sticking to u values? And its slimmer than the rest of your walls Door profile will likely be 70mm or bigger, in which case it'll sit on either leaf anyway with such a slim gap. Just needs closing with a cavity closer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lift span Posted May 19, 2023 Author Share Posted May 19, 2023 (edited) The wall cavities are 100mm with full fill rock wool. I'm doing internal PIR on the walls as well. For the threshold I bridged the cavity with the beam and block (with a dense block). The gap you see below I'm going to fill with insulation/concrete. Then put either 50mm deep x 250mm wide of Compacfoam/ Bosig Phonotherm/Thermalite (I haven't decided how yet) on top. The triple track will sit on that but set back from the front to end up close to the back edge. At least that's todays plan! Edited May 19, 2023 by Lift span Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeGrahamT21 Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 Ahh fair enough, makes sense why it looks different to what i expected. Those block and beam ends will be a rather large thermal bridge unless you are also insulating externally? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lift span Posted May 19, 2023 Author Share Posted May 19, 2023 I left a 10mm gap at the end of the beams to stuff a bit of foam down but I doubt it will do much good! I wish I was insulating externally but I'm not. To be honest, on my next project I'm knocking whatever it is down and starting again otherwise everything is a compromise! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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