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saveasteading

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Where your yellow steps are in the door way. I'm afraid to say that frame is 100mm to far into the corner, and to try and do a finish as it is, will not be very pretty with BOTH frames.

Hold two  bits of plaster board into the corner, then imagine two bits of architrave stuck in there  as well. I know you have the linings to go in yet but you don't have enough free play.

 

Just my view point, please don't take it as a criticism 😍

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6 minutes ago, twice round the block said:

Where your yellow steps are in the door way. I'm afraid to say that frame is 100mm to far into the corner, and to try and do a finish as it is, will not be very pretty with BOTH frames.

Hold two  bits of plaster board into the corner, then imagine two bits of architrave stuck in there  as well. I know you have the linings to go in yet but you don't have enough free play.

 

Just my view point, please don't take it as a criticism 😍

Yes I agree with that.  Unless the door opening is way over size and you are expecting a lot of packing for the door liner?

 

At the moment you have 47mm less 12mm for plasterboard so 35mm, plus say 20mm for a door liner and say 10mm for packing that's 65mm to fit typically 70mm architrave, so you WILL be trimming it down and it may look rubbish.

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Thanks I will pass these comments to the team. Joinery isn't my thing.

It may be that there are constraints on the door positions as we have the constraints of the geometry and the need for disabled movement space. Or maybe we need to change it as suggested.

There is only 1/4 done, so they are learning all the way.

 

Any advice on the tools to buy for door hanging? There are over 20 so it is worth getting the right stuff.

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2 hours ago, saveasteading said:

Any advice on the tools to buy for door hanging? There are over 20 so it is worth getting the right stuff.

Trend do a nice hinge jig, coupled with a 1/4" router and you can do the door and frame hinges.

I've also got

 Souber DBB 5 Minute Morticer JIG1 Door Lock Mortiser Kit 19mm 22mm 25mm https://amzn.eu/d/d5kd3BB

That is good for door locks both tubular latches and 5 lever locks/bathroom locks.

I've never found anything good for the latch plate on the frame though. So that's spade bits and sharp chisels.

I tend to buy latches that have the large catch plate  as these tend to be the depth of the rebate, so it looks cleaner.

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Thanks again. All the advice cut and pasted to the site team who are also grateful.

 

First responses is that the doors have to be where they are, and will be without architraves if necessary.

The approved design first makes the rooms work as intended, but also must show clear space and access for disabled access. A Scottish rule, and a good one, so that an ageing occupant (or other need)  can live on one level.

 

I am wondering if we should have diagonals next to door hanging studs, or if the double stud plus dwang (noggin) suffices. The intended doors are rather heavy.

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53 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

First responses is that the doors have to be where they are, and will be without architraves if necessary.

The approved design first makes the rooms work as intended, but also must show clear space and access for disabled access. A Scottish rule, and a good one, so that an ageing occupant (or other need)  can live on one level.

If your door positions are that tight that you can't move it over 50mm to make the architrave work, then you must be stretching every mm of the access space requirements?  Not that I have ever known them measure for compliance.

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1 hour ago, saveasteading said:

Thanks again. All the advice cut and pasted to the site team who are also grateful.

 

First responses is that the doors have to be where they are, and will be without architraves if necessary.

The approved design first makes the rooms work as intended, but also must show clear space and access for disabled access. A Scottish rule, and a good one, so that an ageing occupant (or other need)  can live on one level.

 

I am wondering if we should have diagonals next to door hanging studs, or if the double stud plus dwang (noggin) suffices. The intended doors are rather heavy.

 

nah thats tosh.

 

moving the door into the correct position so it can be architraved is nowt to do with disabled regs.

 

jockish regs allow  for 775 doors when approached head on.

 

lets see how they get on fixing the door linings. 

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2 hours ago, ProDave said:

Not that I have ever known them measure for compliance.

No I don't think I would measure, as long as it looks reasonable.

But we'd like to comply and somebody has calculated these distances as appropriate. If I'm ever in a wheelchair I'll be glad of the ramped entrance, level ground floor (which required some cute design) wide enough doors  and general space. 

I don't think there are any minimum standards in England and longer.

 

The site team will be looking at your helpful comments soon, but are on other priorities today.

 

Does an architrave have any purpose other than aesthetics and covering the plaster edge? Balance is to be preferred of course.

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17 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

No I don't think I would measure, as long as it looks reasonable.

But we'd like to comply and somebody has calculated these distances as appropriate. If I'm ever in a wheelchair I'll be glad of the ramped entrance, level ground floor (which required some cute design) wide enough doors  and general space. 

I am not disputing they are generally sensible, just curious how you appear to be complying only just with little room for a minor alteration.

 

A floorplan might explain it?

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2 hours ago, ProDave said:

floorplan might explain it?

Can't do that with the tech (or my it skill perhaps) where I am.

But it is a steading so is narrow, then has the internal stud and insulation. I'm hoping the team has been studying door construction, as I haven't and have always had experts do it.

Eg I have subtly mentioned allowing for floor finishes and linings, and hope it works with door sizes.

 

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