nod Posted July 9, 2017 Posted July 9, 2017 We have a bit of a dilemma Currently we are weather tight with windows and external door all in We had planed to have UFH and screed installed prior to first fix electrics and plumbing Looking at the UFH company's literature it states not to let the internal temperature drop below 3 degrees I was only fit the boiler prior to moving in around Easter time So this would leave the house without heat for most of the winter Boilers are very easy picking for thief's So I would like to delay with that as long as possible Ive seen builds on tv were UFH has been installed in the slab Can it be drained off after testing Any thoughts would be most welcome Gary
ProDave Posted July 9, 2017 Posted July 9, 2017 Fill UFH pipes with inhibitor / antfreeze Assuming it's insulated under the slab and the walls and roof are insulated I can't see it getting cold enough to freeze anyway. Plenty up here leave the slab over winter with UFH pipes then build the house on the slab in the spring, and it never seems to come to harm. 1
nod Posted July 9, 2017 Author Posted July 9, 2017 11 minutes ago, ProDave said: Fill UFH pipes with inhibitor / antfreeze Assuming it's insulated under the slab and the walls and roof are insulated I can't see it getting cold enough to freeze anyway. Plenty up here leave the slab over winter with UFH pipes then build the house on the slab in the spring, and it never seems to come to harm. That's a good suggestion Dave The floor is a block and beam cavitys fully filled There will be 150 kingspan then UFH 75 mil screed
ProDave Posted July 9, 2017 Posted July 9, 2017 Alternatively don't put any water in the pipes at all. My plumber friend leak tests pipework by pumping it up with air.
billt Posted July 9, 2017 Posted July 9, 2017 I think your plumber friend is ill advised. "Pressure testing of pipelines should normally be carried out using water. Only in exceptional circumstances should pneumatic pressure testing using compressed inert gas or air be used, and then only under carefully controlled conditions. The reason for this is because water is virtually incompressible (as are other liquids) and only a small quantity of energy needs to be introduced to increase the pressure significantly. Air, however, (like all gases) is compressible and, as a result, much more energy has to be put into the gas to raise its pressure. In fact, at the pressure ranges normally used for testing water-piping systems 200 times more energy is stored in compressed gas compared to water at the same pressure and volume. So, should a joint, pipe, or any other component fail under test pressure when using compressed gas, the energy can be released with deadly force!"
dpmiller Posted July 9, 2017 Posted July 9, 2017 Being involved with air compressors and autoclaves I'd have to agree with @billt. never mind water reducing the chances of the pipes floating up in the screed.
Nickfromwales Posted July 9, 2017 Posted July 9, 2017 If you want some heat, buy a Willis heater and link it up to the manifold with some SPEEDFIT. Job done, and you can work in comfort. . That plus antifreeze inhibitor if your in a bitter climate, ( but prodaves testimony really renders that pointless ).
Onoff Posted July 9, 2017 Posted July 9, 2017 My bathroom loop; I just sucked the water out with a wet vac after testing (left for months at 3bar) and taped the ends up.
nod Posted July 9, 2017 Author Posted July 9, 2017 Thanks for all the quick reply's I will let you know how I get on
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