Barney12 Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 1 hour ago, PeterW said: If it's not exposed to sunlight then ordinary rectangular extract duct would work - 220mm x 40mm would be easy to work with. Thanks. Funnily enough that's an idea I had hit apon. The best I could find though was 4x2(110mmx53mm). I can't see the size you mention online? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 28 minutes ago, Barney12 said: Thanks. Funnily enough that's an idea I had hit apon. The best I could find though was 4x2(110mmx53mm). I can't see the size you mention online? https://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/products/rectangular-ventilation-duct/rectangular-duct-flat-duct-1mtr/-204mm-x-60mm/ will look for the 220mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/product/manrose-2000mm-flat-duct-225x25mm-white-371729?vat=1&shopping=true&mkwid=s_dm&pcrid=157072888259&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CJurqIHC3tQCFca77Qodmo8P4g may have to watch it for blocking though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 Once you get through the design, one option is to make up a pattern and manufacture the fibreglass bit in your workshop rather than pitter-patter about on the roof. Then you simply have to do the joints while outside. In that case you are able to make a couple of spares. F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 3 hours ago, Ferdinand said: Once you get through the design, one option is to make up a pattern and manufacture the fibreglass bit in your workshop rather than pitter-patter about on the roof. Then you simply have to do the joints while outside. In that case you are able to make a couple of spares. F Yep that's exactly what I'm intending. I'm going to try and find time for a prototype run tonight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 (edited) Resorted to bit of quick Sketchup Edited June 28, 2017 by Barney12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 If that's the chosen method then I'd form the letterbox outlet from grp ( formed with a with an off cut of that rectangular section ) rather than a round former. Looks like it'll work fine TBH. ? Edit : Don't use silicone on any of this stuff as it has a very short life . CT1 or Sikaflex ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said: If that's the chosen method then I'd form the letterbox outlet from grp ( formed with a with an off cut of that rectangular section ) rather than a round former. Looks like it'll work fine TBH. ? Yep that was my plan and a grp 'male' connection that will sit down into the 'female' of first bend. I'll then bond it using the Sicoflex you mentioned before. The other joints will be solvent welded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 (edited) Why the right angle kink? That looks like an excellent hidden trip point for blockages. I think you want something you can get drainage rods through from both ends if necessary. Or perhaps a chimney brush. Rodding or jetting points? Minimum radius to follow that of drains? I think I would argue for a longer grp section with a suitable kink to join a little lower, or moving the letterbox section to make say 30-45 degree the maximum angle. I would also consider making that section if cladding relatively removable just in case. It is up in the air so people may not look too closely. Vertical scarf joint and coach screws on that particular batten (or us it counterbatten!), and stainless screws for the cladding? Or mount the whole vertical slice of cladding and batten on a hook or two? Even a plastic batten if lighter? F Edited June 28, 2017 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 27 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: Why the right angle kink? No choice as it has to move away from the corner cladding detail. Can't move the letterbox "up" the slope, that wont work! Its still easily rodded with a flexi wire. I might see if two 45 degrees and a short join works better though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 Pair of 45 bends is the way to go .... one at each end too ..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: If that's the chosen method then I'd form the letterbox outlet from grp ( formed with a with an off cut of that rectangular section ) rather than a round former. Looks like it'll work fine TBH. ? Edit : Don't use silicone on any of this stuff as it has a very short life . CT1 or Sikaflex ? You could GRP the join. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 2 hours ago, Ferdinand said: You could GRP the join. A bit brittle for one, and you'll need to do a bonded join somewhere as they're ( the roof and the down'pipe' ) dissimilar materials. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: A bit brittle for one, and you'll need to do a bonded join somewhere as they're ( the roof and the down'pipe' ) dissimilar materials. Agreed. There is nothing better than a 'male' to 'female' union as long as you've got a bit of flex Edited June 28, 2017 by Barney12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 That ship has sailed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 10 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: That ship has sailed Sailed? Mines bloody lost at sea! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 I see and get peripherally involved in "guttering" on commercial buildings. You need to be bloody careful that where you have hidden, male into female joints that they're watertight. I repeatedly see blockages further down the line, backing up, and there's no second line of defense. It overflows the joint and water enters the building! Regular rodding / maintenance is essential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 I think in this case the gutter and pipe is on the outside of the building but behind the cladding however I agree it does need careful design to stop any opportunity for blockages to cause issues. I would put one either end just to be on the safe side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 Pre-made the gutter sections today in the workshop. The bottom section to make the 'male' is just a former that will be removed (hence the foil and the duct tape). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 The gutter sections: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 15 hours ago, PeterW said: I think in this case the gutter and pipe is on the outside of the building but behind the cladding however I agree it does need careful design to stop any opportunity for blockages to cause issues. I would put one either end just to be on the safe side. I'm still amazed that gutters I see can have no fall in them by design On 2017-6-28 at 14:48, Barney12 said: Resorted to bit of quick Sketchup Barsteward! This looks so cool I love it. Even wondering if I could steal the idea when I redo my dormers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 A few of the install so far: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 Finished! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Very neat ..! Use a kit ..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 5 minutes ago, PeterW said: Very neat ..! Use a kit ..? I made all the formers and upstands by hand from machined timber. The GRP roof materials are Metrodeck from CFS Fibreglass. Im told it will last 50 years, which is handy as I won't live anything like that long Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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