Goody69 Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 This is simple I'm sure but I cannot get straight in my head the timber sizes I need to block out some UB's so jiffy hangers can then be used to take existing joists (and new rafters to the outside). I've had two 254x254x89UB's spec'd up by Engineer, one a beast at 6.10M long; plus a 203x133x25 internally. These are being fitted Friday so I need them blocked out that morning. I'm thinking: 203x133x25 = 175mm x 75mm (7" x 3") 254x254x89 = 200mm x 75mm (8" x 3") plus another sandwich length of 200mm x 50mm (8" x 2") Would that work? Also... I'm using Timber to Timber Joist Hanger - 47 x 272mm as existing are 9"x2"..... is the cutting in a simple enough job that I don't need a chippy (a couple of handymen and two steelfixers will be on site)??? Any views gladly welcome!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 Several ways of adding blocks to beams, if filling completely then I like to bolt (threaded rod) straight through timber/steel/timber and sandwich the lot together especially if using joist hangers. If it’s only trim them small blocks wedged in place is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 47 minutes ago, Goody69 said: This is simple I'm sure but I cannot get straight in my head the timber sizes I need to block out some UB's so jiffy hangers can then be used to take existing joists (and new rafters to the outside). I've had two 254x254x89UB's spec'd up by Engineer, one a beast at 6.10M long; plus a 203x133x25 internally. These are being fitted Friday so I need them blocked out that morning. I'm thinking: 203x133x25 = 175mm x 75mm (7" x 3") 254x254x89 = 200mm x 75mm (8" x 3") plus another sandwich length of 200mm x 50mm (8" x 2") Would that work? Also... I'm using Timber to Timber Joist Hanger - 47 x 272mm as existing are 9"x2"..... is the cutting in a simple enough job that I don't need a chippy (a couple of handymen and two steelfixers will be on site)??? Any views gladly welcome!!! This is all I did Staggered bolted every 600 Finish the timber flush by either planing or add a piece of ply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 It is sometimes simpler to shape the ends of the joists so they can just sit on the lower flange of the beam, rather than using hangers. Fill in the gaps between to joists to stop them moving or twisting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 Don’t forget that Universal Beams are not truly square inside so your inner flange dimension and outer dimension are different which can cause problems when blocking out. 3 hours ago, Goody69 said: 254x254x89 = 200mm x 75mm (8" x 3") plus another sandwich length of 200mm x 50mm (8" x 2") That is a monster - are you sure that’s the right dimensions..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goody69 Posted October 25, 2022 Author Share Posted October 25, 2022 13 minutes ago, PeterW said: Don’t forget that Universal Beams are not truly square inside so your inner flange dimension and outer dimension are different which can cause problems when blocking out. That is a monster - are you sure that’s the right dimensions..?? Yep - its a 6110mm clear span for one across back of house which then is cleated to one same size which is the beam to the goalpost holding side of house up. I was looking for guidance on the blocking out timber section sizes. Using ply packer is a shout so thanks for that Nod Been told using the jiffy hangers is the simplest way to go........ more I think about it more I may do another begging text message to my chippie to come along Friday morning!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 Ok so that’s going to be fun to lift then !! If you’re adding rafters externally I assume then you’re using either taper insulation or firrings to give you a slope ..? With a 254 I would get the steel erectors to put the bottom flange flush with the finished joist level and as @Mr Punter said notch out the 15mm and sit the joists and rafters on the bottom flange on the assumption the SEng says it’s ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted October 27, 2022 Share Posted October 27, 2022 check the SE doesnt want the hangers shot fired into the top as well as this is normal practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenki Posted November 17, 2022 Share Posted November 17, 2022 On 25/10/2022 at 12:08, Mr Punter said: It is sometimes simpler to shape the ends of the joists so they can just sit on the lower flange of the beam, rather than using hangers. Fill in the gaps between to joists to stop them moving or twisting. +1 for this option , especially for the 254mm beam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted November 17, 2022 Share Posted November 17, 2022 (edited) On 27/10/2022 at 07:12, Dave Jones said: check the SE doesnt want the hangers shot fired into the top as well as this is normal practice. We used hangers with tails long enough to go over the top and down the other side. Regular nailed to the blocking both sides. Edited November 17, 2022 by Temp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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