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Led low level lights


James94

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Trimless wall lights,

Got a diagram and instructions but I'm not 100% sure, so some advice would be much appreciated. I'm looking to run them along hallway and landing at low level with a pir sensor ( maybe 5 lights on each). At the moment i just want to temporarily hang them to see what they look like prior to plasterers coming round, just want to achieve correct spacing and quantity.

I have done a little wiring (AC only) in the past nothing major, but when i see the diagram I've never put red to black and so on, can anyone explain in layman terms maybe with a simple drawing what the wiring will look like  with connectors and how neutral will get back to driver from last light.


James

 

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Edited by James94
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The LED power supply takes AC in one side and provides DC out the other. So you need to connect the red and black (DC) wired to the DC side of the power supply and put a cable with a 3 pin plug on the other side and your light should light up.

 

Simon

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6 minutes ago, James94 said:

I think I understand the connection from mains to driver and out to first light it's after that and back to driver I don’t.

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Tell us what you don't understand about that, it is perfectly clear what you need to do.

 

Use choc block screw terminals for your test run.

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I can just read the ratings label. 700ma from the driver up to 17V max. 700mA for the LED at 2.8V so just about 6 LEDs to a driver.

But their diagram is a hot mess. Ignore it and just connect the red from one of your LEDs to + on the driver then daisy chain the next LED's red to the black from the first one until you take the final black to the -ve on the driver.

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It’s looking clearer now after your advice, have never done any low level led lights from a driver and just thought you wired them like 240AC.

so block screws for test run, do you recommend anything for the final fixing I think Astro have mentioned some jelly crimp?

Also if the last light is 5 m away from driver do I just run connect a single cable to last light and run it back to - on driver?

Regards. James

 

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2 minutes ago, James94 said:

Also if the last light is 5 m away from driver do I just run connect a single cable to last light and run it back to - on driver?

Yes, a single piece of stranded wire. Maybe slit down a bit of flex if you have some.

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@James94 I have a small suggestion for you: Assuming that the LED's themselves are non-replaceable and are to be plastered-in, then, if the full brightness is not really necessary I would swap the 700mA constant current driver for a standard 350mA one. This would ensure the longevity of the LEDs by running them cooler. It shouldn't affect the colour temperature (like it would if they were incandescent lamps), just the brightness. China often over-drive their LED products to make them more spectacular but the consequent reduction in lifespan is something that takes place out of sight of the market. 2.8V at 0.35A is roughly 1 Watt which should be more than enough for this distributed lighting application.

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They are actually doing this properly with a constant current driver for all the LED's in series. The voltage will depend on how many are connected.

 

Nothing wrong with doing the final connection with choc blocks.

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Agreed it's being driven correctly, but possibly inappropriately.

 

The label on the LED shown seems to say 700mA 2.8V (A voltage that sounds a little on the low side, especially for a white LED @ 700mA) but therefore at least 2W. That is not a trivial amount of dissipation and unless mounted on well ventilated heatsink of at least 10°C/W will be taking the LED die towards 50°C where its lifetime will be significantly degraded. I doubt that such a heatsink is provided or would have sufficient airflow.

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Now i am a little lost, I have already bought one of the drivers @ 700ma as stated by astro, I also think these 2w led lights are replaceable although not sure how . The led driver will be sat on top of a wardrobe a few meters from first light, I want to make everything possibly replaceable with ducting and so on, I would hate to have something fail and be left with wall lights that don't work of have to rip wall apart.

Regards  James

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2 hours ago, James94 said:

Now i am a little lost, I have already bought one of the drivers @ 700ma as stated by astro, I also think these 2w led lights are replaceable although not sure how . The led driver will be sat on top of a wardrobe a few meters from first light, I want to make everything possibly replaceable with ducting and so on, I would hate to have something fail and be left with wall lights that don't work of have to rip wall apart.

Regards  James

 

I'm sorry if my cautious approach has thrown you, it's just that I'm beginning to see unmaintainable lighting being plastered-in and I have a lot of experience with Chinese LED products. The drivers are inexpensive so you might consider getting a 350mA one and give it a try. It will definitely work and if it gives you an acceptable result, it will prolong the life of your LEDs and save you some money on the electricity bill.

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Not a problem, the more problems we hit on this build the more we learn for the next😁

this driver wasn't the one astro recommended, we chose this because of the price. This is the astro one, https://www.astrolighting.com/products/6008072-led-driver-cc-350ma-15w-cc-700ma-31w-non-dim

should we of bought this,is it better than the one we have? And if not can you recommend one which you think maybe suitable.

Regards  James

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9 hours ago, James94 said:

Not a problem, the more problems we hit on this build the more we learn for the next😁

this driver wasn't the one astro recommended, we chose this because of the price. This is the astro one, https://www.astrolighting.com/products/6008072-led-driver-cc-350ma-15w-cc-700ma-31w-non-dim

should we of bought this,is it better than the one we have? And if not can you recommend one which you think maybe suitable.

Regards  James

 

That Astro one looks to be adjustable, probably using switches inside to set the current.  Would allow the LEDs to be run at a lower current giving longer life as @Radian suggested. However the one you have should work OK apart from that. 

 

Perhaps the circuit drawing is confusing because the symbol they use for a connector looks like a pendant light bulb! 

 

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