CotswoldDoItUpper Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 Our LPG boiler feeds an s-plan where the two zones are 1: radiators and 2: buffer tank for UFH. if I wish to work on the radiator zone, can I just shut off the valve for the radiator circuit and drain just that section? I don’t really want to have to drain and fill the whole damn thing just to reconnect a new radiator!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 NO, they will share a common connection to the return. If radiators are upstairs only a partial drain down will do. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CotswoldDoItUpper Posted February 10, 2022 Author Share Posted February 10, 2022 16 minutes ago, ProDave said: NO, they will share a common connection to the return. If radiators are upstairs only a partial drain down will do. Damn. No, they’re downstairs in a part of the house unsuitable for UFH. Full drain down needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CotswoldDoItUpper Posted February 10, 2022 Author Share Posted February 10, 2022 @ProDave what about pipe freezing? I only need it isolated for about 30mins max I guess? Does it work or is it a con? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 3 minutes ago, CotswoldDoItUpper said: @ProDave what about pipe freezing? I only need it isolated for about 30mins max I guess? Does it work or is it a con? Works fine with a decent unit but the small aerosol cans are useless. It is worth finding where the two circuits come back together as one return to the boiler and fitting a pair of isolators whilst it is all drained down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 What job are you actually doing? Closing of valves is sufficient for radiator removal/refit, and pushfit stop ends can usually suffice for more intrusive work to temporarily cap the system off. Soldering of wet pipes is an issue, but it all depends what task you're doing as to what options you've got. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CotswoldDoItUpper Posted February 10, 2022 Author Share Posted February 10, 2022 1 minute ago, MJNewton said: What job are you actually doing? Closing of valves is sufficient for radiator removal/refit, and pushfit stop ends can usually suffice for more intrusive work to temporarily cap the system off. Soldering of wet pipes is an issue, but it all depends what task you're doing as to what options you've got. I’m replacing the old rads with larger ones (wider and deeper for a lower delta flow temp) all the new pipe work is done and in place, just need to cut out the old copper and fit a compression to join the existing copper to the new plastic at each end. Doing that on 4 rads, 6mins each I guess. @PeterW I had my eye on this… seems to have good reviews? But if experience on BH tells me anything, it’s to listen to those on BH with experience! https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-products-pipe-freezing-kit-300ml/900fj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 "6 mins each" No, it doesn't work like that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 (edited) From what you've described I'd just do that 'live'. Cat litter tray and some towels work wonders. As does having everything you'll need to hand! Once the pressure has been released then water can only come out if air can get in. It therefore doesn't take much to reduce water loss to a minimum. Pipe freezing is for mains pressure situations, and even then its not essential if you're brave and bold enough! Edited February 10, 2022 by MJNewton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CotswoldDoItUpper Posted February 10, 2022 Author Share Posted February 10, 2022 7 minutes ago, dpmiller said: "6 mins each" No, it doesn't work like that... I’ve done quite a few before, but always fully drained the system. Just trying to rave some effort. If the system was drained I might take a bit longer without rushing! 9 minutes ago, MJNewton said: From what you've described I'd just do that 'live'. Cat litter tray and some towels work wonders. As does having everything you'll need to hand! Once the pressure has been released then water can only come out if air can get in. It therefore doesn't take much to reduce water loss to a minimum. Pipe freezing is for mains pressure situations, and even then its not essential if you're brave and bold enough! I capped some 22mm pipes when we removed the rads in half the house whilst the system was pressured (boiler off tho!). I don’t think I’ll do it again!! Pipe cutter and push fit to hand and I still would have been drier if I’d had a bath! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 (edited) Was that water release whilst pressured? Once released the flow should reduce massively, although 22mm will always pose more of a problem than 15mm due to the difficulty maintaining a vacuum in a larger pipe. I can appreciate 'once bitten twice shy' and all that though! Edited February 10, 2022 by MJNewton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CotswoldDoItUpper Posted February 10, 2022 Author Share Posted February 10, 2022 2 minutes ago, MJNewton said: Was that water release whilst pressured? Once released the flow reduces massively, although 22mm will always pose more of a problem than 15mm due to the difficulty maintaining a vacuum. I can appreciate 'once bitten twice shy' and all that though! Also did a 15mm mains pressure (wrong side of the stopcock) job recently. Couldn’t find the main shutoff on the road so didn’t have much choice! That was even more fun, furthest spray of water was nearly 12m away!! Maybe should have used pipe freezing for that… think I’ll shut off the UFH manifold to protect it and close every valve I can and then go ‘live’ after releasing pressure with a drain valve. Might need to refill with less inhibitor then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 Yeah I've done the same when my only other option was turning off the whole road! It's funny (looking back at least!) how much harder a job is with water going everywhere. Very different kettle of fish to an depressurised heating system though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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