Siggles Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 (edited) Hi all, We had our ASHP replaced with a 16kw Samsung. It's worked fine for a few months. Now I get this error message, often (if not always) when nothing is calling for heat. I understand from doing a bit of research that it is to do with the flow of water and maybe the flow switch/sensor - this is a new one that comes with the gen6 I believe. When somethign IS calling for heat, it can run all day without throwing up the is error. I've seen videos about cleaning the filter but I dont see that amongst my pipework. Any suggestions? Thanks Siggles Edited February 7, 2022 by Siggles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 This sounds very much like issues I had at the start with my LG ASHP. So there will be a flow switch to make sure the heat pump is seeing sufficient water flow. There could be 2 issues: There may be a motorised valve that opens when you get a call for heat and it is taking too long to open and the flow switch test times out before the valve has opened fully. The flow rate might just be too marginal so it is not triggering the flow switch every time. This was my problem and solved by fitting an extra pump to boost the flow rate. If there is an automatic bypass valve, try opening that a bit more to allow more bypass flow to help things along. Or save yourself the head scratching and just call the installer and say the system you installed a few months ago is not working properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siggles Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 Thank you Dave. I'll take a look. It does tend to be when there is no call for heat at all. So for example, nothing is calling for heat (ie, I hear the rads go off) then ten minutes later this error message happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 (edited) I've recently had the exact same problem on the same heat pump. E911 is the lack of flow error code - this is what you get if there isn't enough flow through the primary loop. E912 means the flow switch is detecting flow when it believes it shouldn't. I was seeing this error about 10 minutes after there was no call for heat. In my case a relay in the control board was stuck closed so the primary loop circulating pump was running even when the controller thought it wasn't. I could confirm this by turning off the power to the controller and turning back on - the primary loop circulation pump would start up immediately every time. You can also check by going into self-test mode (you'll need to hold down up and down arrows on the controller display, it asks for a code, input 0202). In that menu there is a self-test option which you can turn the circulating pump on and off manually. If the pump stays on when it has been turned off in the menu you'll know the relay is the problem. I was able to fix mine temporarily by powering off the controller, opening the box and giving the relay a tap which caused it to start working again. I got a new PCB under warranty from Freedom Heat Pumps who supplied the unit, which has hopefully permanently fixed the issue. Edited February 7, 2022 by Andrew 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siggles Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 That is so helpful Andrew, thank you very much ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siggles Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 Unfortunately I am in a situation where I had a Dimplex unit - Dimplex couldnt provide spare parts so eventually (after much nagging) replaced the ASHP with the Samsung using their third-party supplier/fitter. But I didnt technically pay for the ASHP, or the work, so I dont think the supplier are gonna be in a hurry to help me. I dont know how much luck I will have going directly to Samsung. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siggles Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 2 hours ago, Andrew said: I was able to fix mine temporarily by powering off the controller, opening the box and giving the relay a tap which caused it to start working again. I got a new PCB under warranty from Freedom Heat Pumps who supplied the unit, which has hopefully permanently fixed the issue. Hi Andrew. It does appear to be the Grundfos primary pump. It turns on, as you say, as soon as I turn on the PCB. And if I turn off everything in the house, I can still feel it vibrating, like water is passing through. Ive also tried the self-test mode, where everything is OFF but can still feel it working away. It is very hot of course and it has been wroked hard these last 7 years. My question is, Is there any circuitry do you think, at the pump itself, that could could cause it to be constantly on? I also opened the PCB, but couldn't locate what I needed to 'tap'. Any advice would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 Some diverter valves have switches on them to control the pump so it doesn't run until the valve is in the right position. These switches are notoriously unreliable, especially if the valve weeps a bit. Could result in the pump being stuck on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 2 hours ago, Siggles said: I also opened the PCB, but couldn't locate what I needed to 'tap'. Any advice would be appreciated. I'll take a photo of mine in a bit showing where I tapped and post it on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 Actually turns out I already had a photo on my computer. The things I've circled in yellow are the relays on the boards - the black rectangles. I'm not sure exactly which one it is that controls the primary pump so I just gave them all a hard tap - like a flick with my nail. In my case this got the relay moving again. It is possible for the relay to have welded shut if there has been an arc across the contacts at some point. If that's the case I don't think you are going to be able to get it moving again and will need a new PCB or relay. Good Luck. Btw if you do need a new PCB then Freedom Heat Pumps are a UK distributor for these Samsung units and AFAIK also administer the warranty on behalf of Samsung. I still think you would be best going back to the people who installed it and asking them to help, but I believe Freedom told my electrician that a new PCB was about £180 if you need to buy a new one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siggles Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 5 minutes ago, Andrew said: Actually turns out I already had a photo on my computer. The things I've circled in yellow are the relays on the boards - the black rectangles. I'm not sure exactly which one it is that controls the primary pump so I just gave them all a hard tap - like a flick with my nail. In my case this got the relay moving again. It is possible for the relay to have welded shut if there has been an arc across the contacts at some point. If that's the case I don't think you are going to be able to get it moving again and will need a new PCB or relay. Good Luck. Btw if you do need a new PCB then Freedom Heat Pumps are a UK distributor for these Samsung units and AFAIK also administer the warranty on behalf of Samsung. I still think you would be best going back to the people who installed it and asking them to help, but I believe Freedom told my electrician that a new PCB was about £180 if you need to buy a new one. Thank you again, you are a legend! ? I'll let you know how I get on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siggles Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 Looks like you have solved it Andrew. Crazy that you should have had the same issue and given such a great answer, that I can actually fix it. I dont suppose it wont happen again, so as you say, I should try get a new board anyway, but this is great. Even just knowing exactly what the issue is, is a relief. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 @Siggles I'm delighted that's solved the problem. I think there may be a batch of PCBs with a component issue (although no-one admitted this) so I guess not too surprising that we've had the same problem. I'm also pleased that anyone googling may find this thread as when I was looking there was very little information out there on the issue. Hopefully this will help others. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 (edited) If you replace the PCB don't let them take the old one away. Most relays are pretty cheap and if they are through hole mounted types I'd have a go at replacing the relay so you have a spare PCB for the future. Edit: Heck you could probably even find a better relay. Edited February 7, 2022 by Temp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siggles Posted December 2, 2023 Author Share Posted December 2, 2023 On 07/02/2022 at 17:24, Andrew said: @Siggles I'm delighted that's solved the problem. I think there may be a batch of PCBs with a component issue (although no-one admitted this) so I guess not too surprising that we've had the same problem. I'm also pleased that anyone googling may find this thread as when I was looking there was very little information out there on the issue. Hopefully this will help others. Hiya. I had Samsung, via a third party, come and replace the PCB board about a year ago. It worked fine for months, then I had one case of the relay getting stuck, flicked it, and that was it until the last couple of days when it has happened again. So a 2nd PCB with the same issue. Did you ever get the same issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andehh Posted December 9 Share Posted December 9 Urgh woke up to no heating and E912 error message, once 15mins after the heating should have been in AND again 15mins after the hot water should have ended. Would the same flow rate be impacted on both heating and hot water side of things? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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