Two Hot Water Cylinders

[Gone West]

14 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

I'd still though have an issue as the CWS tank is so small.

 

When Dan bought the place he asked me what the two big cylinders were in the loft. I had a look and was surprised they were in the loft, and connected HWC, as I'd not seen that arrangement before. Don't know how big it is but the cold water tank is on a platform in the ridge, strange, but it seems to work okay. It has maximised the space in the house by not needing a large airing cupboard.

[Onoff]

7 minutes ago, PeterStarck said:

When Dan bought the place he asked me what the two big cylinders were in the loft. I had a look and was surprised they were in the loft, and connected HWC, as I'd not seen that arrangement before. Don't know how big it is but the cold water tank is on a platform in the ridge, strange, but it seems to work okay. It has maximised the space in the house by not needing a large airing cupboard.

 

That's where my cold water tank is, in the ridge of the hip end above the height of the dormer roof. Just behind where the yellow ladder wheels are:

 

 

But it's as I say only 25gallon. Have considered a long coffin type  maybe projecting into the ridge above the dormer to increase head / capacity.

[Gone West]

4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

But it's as I say only 25gallon. Have considered a long coffin type  maybe projecting into the ridge above the dormer to increase head / capacity.

 

I can't see why a 50 gallon coffin type tank wouldn't work if you've got the space for the length.

[Nickfromwales]

4 hours ago, PeterStarck said:

I can't see why a 50 gallon coffin type tank wouldn't work if you've got the space for the length.

It would need additional support thats all. 

Dont fit a second fill valve unless your running a second independent overflow pipe .  

[Onoff]

29 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Dont fit a second fill valve unless your running a second independent overflow pipe .  

 

You're going to have to expand on the why not (ref the fill valve) and why one might (ref the o'flow pipe)!

[Nickfromwales]

Simple. For each fill valve you need the equivalent capacity for overflow. 

1 & 1, 2 & 2, or 2 & 1x 32mm overflow ( combined ). 

[Onoff]

25 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Simple. For each fill valve you need the equivalent capacity for overflow. 

1 & 1, 2 & 2, or 2 & 1x 32mm overflow ( combined ). 

 

Got it. Now from somewhere do I recall two fill points are suggested for a big long tank to prevent stagnation or something? Or is is fill one end/take off the opposite end?

 

In my case the fill and take off would have to be one end only because of access. I'd slide it into the ridge space and only see the end.

[Nickfromwales]

Your not supposed to have the two at the same end as the splashing water has bubbles and your supposed to avoid drawing that out so as to avoid drawing air into the system, to reduce possible air locks. Maybe drill the tank connector through and slide the 22mm pipe all the way to the other end to make a dip pipe . 

This is to alleviate problems when the tank is nearing empty / has low water levels btw, so don't look at it from splashing up high POV. ?

[Onoff]

22 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Your not supposed to have the two at the same end as the splashing water has bubbles and your supposed to avoid drawing that out so as to avoid drawing air into the system, to reduce possible air locks. Maybe drill the tank connector through and slide the 22mm pipe all the way to the other end to make a dip pipe . 

This is to alleviate problems when the tank is nearing empty / has low water levels btw, so don't look at it from splashing up high POV. ?

 

You've done this before haven't you?

[Nickfromwales]

?

The problem is particularly acute if a shower / bath booster pump is fitted. It can actually invalidate the warranty. 

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

?

The problem is particularly acute if a shower / bath booster pump is fitted. It can actually invalidate the warranty. 

 

Funnily enough.....there was here an old NewTeam (NT35?) shower pump that eventually failed.

 

I searched high and low for a replacement and eventually fitted this newer NewTeam one. It works OK. Main reason for choosing this was it wants 25gal min cold water tank. You sometimes have to hold the handset by your feet to get the pump to kick in, sometimes not. It takes an age for the hot to come through because of the run.

 

 

Somewhere along the line I picked this one up but have never used it!

 

 

Edited April 26, 2017 by Onoff

[Jeremy Harris]

Years ago I fitted a coffin tank, to replace an old slate cold water tank (the big sheets of slate ended up as two hearths!).  I had the same problem of not being able to fit the feed at one end and the take off at the other, because there was virtually no access at the far end (it was lodged on to a massive stone chimney breast in the loft).  The fix I came up with was to stick the 22mm tank fitting in the lathe and machine off the stop inside, so a 22mm pipe would go right through.  I then fitted a long take off pipe inside the tank that drew water from the far end, rather than the end with the fitting.  Worked a treat, for the four years or so we stayed in the house.

[Nickfromwales]

The salamanders are cracking pumps. 

If you Google that one you may find it has brass impellers. 

[Onoff]

8 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

The salamanders are cracking pumps. 

If you Google that one you may find it has brass impellers. 

 

Vague recollection if was to run two showers, one in the "ongoing" bathroom and the other in the existing en suite...

 

Forgot I had it until the other day.

[Nickfromwales]

Sell all these things and put the money towards an UVC or TS. 

Ever heard the phrase "good money after bad"?

 

[Alexphd1]

Very good advice from Nick ! 

 

[PeterW]

25 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Sell all these things and put the money towards an UVC or TS. 

Ever heard the phrase "good money after bad"?

 

 

..... and if you do it before January 2019 I'm sure @Nickfromwales would even travel over and install it.... 

[Nickfromwales]

With @PeterW as my labourer 

 

edited to add : ✌️✌✌✌

[PeterW]

4 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

With @PeterW as my labourer 

 

I prefer biatch......

 

I'll bring my bucket of steam and the spirit level bubbles...

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

Sell all these things and put the money towards an UVC or TS. 

Ever heard the phrase "good money after bad"?

 

 

3 Ford Capris in various unfinished states and a daily Ford Focus.....I've heard the phrase but never heeded it!  

 

The UVC/TS thing.....I can't feed home brew solar thermal into a UVC can I?

[PeterW]

 

4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

The UVC/TS thing.....I can't feed home brew solar thermal into a UV

 

Yep you can if you have a twin coil tank... 

[Stones]

I considered going for a twin DHW storage solution based on the length of pipe runs - bathrooms at one end of the house, kitchen and utility at the other. In the end it simply made more sense (and was cheaper) for me to centrally locate our 300L cylinder to the centre of the house and have longer primary pipe runs to the ASHP.

[Onoff]

18 minutes ago, Stones said:

I considered going for a twin DHW storage solution based on the length of pipe runs - bathrooms at one end of the house, kitchen and utility at the other. In the end it simply made more sense (and was cheaper) for me to centrally locate our 300L cylinder to the centre of the house and have longer primary pipe runs to the ASHP.

 

So in my case it'd be longer pipe runs to the oil boiler.

 

Under the stairs is tbh pretty central to the house in my case. Its also where I've always envisioned any UFH manifold going. The downstairs bathroom would be adjacent and the cloak only a little further. The upstairs en suite would be nigh on directly above.

 

It would mean any solar thermal runs would be quite long though.