Trimless Plaster in Downlights/Spot Lights Spacing & Quality

[revelation]

I am looking to install trimless plaster in downlights into our kitchen which is around 8m x 6m.  I have never used any before, normally it has been standard after plaster downlights.

 

How many downlights would you recommend for that space, considering that they are recessed into the fitting would more than normal be required? 

To be on the same side more would be better than less...?

 

These are the ones I am looking at installing

https://www.saxbylighting.com/products/product-detail/81572-ravel-trimless-fr-downlight-50w

 

Has anyone had any experience of using them, is the quality massively different to those which are twice the price?

 

Any do's and don't to consider with these kinds of lights?

 

[saveasteading]

Interesting. These are new to me. Very tidy.

I am guessing that the bulb is in line with the finished ceiling. If set back there will be some shadow.

 

You need to draw this up showing light radiating down at whatever angle the bulbs say is their spread, to ensure even coverage. That would be at just above worktop.

They must be over work surfaces not heads, or there will be shadows. Does that work if there are cupboards?

 

You will have  a lot of them. 1m centres? so 35 of them!

 

 

[IanR]

I've used similar units from Colingwood. Although integrated LEDs, rather than GU10's

 

The ones I've used have a 38° beam angle and are 5.5W. I have 8 (two rows of 4) over a dining area that is approx 6m x 5m and they light the area well, even though it's part of an open plan living area so no wall on two sides to reflect the light back in to the "room".

 

I am wishing I'd gone for GU10's rather than integrated LEDs for these. Even though Collingwood give a 7 year warranty, if they fail in 10 years they'll be a pain to replace.

Edited December 27, 2021 by IanR

[nod]

I’ve plastered to these a few times

If there the same The bulb fitting is magnetic We put a timber pattress behind each fitting as staples wouldn’t hold 

The electricians attach a cord to the wires and tape it to the insisted as they are to narrow to get your hand in the fitting 

They look great when finished 

[revelation]

10 hours ago, saveasteading said:

Interesting. These are new to me. Very tidy.

I am guessing that the bulb is in line with the finished ceiling. If set back there will be some shadow.

 

You need to draw this up showing light radiating down at whatever angle the bulbs say is their spread, to ensure even coverage. That would be at just above worktop.

They must be over work surfaces not heads, or there will be shadows. Does that work if there are cupboards?

 

You will have  a lot of them. 1m centres? so 35 of them!

 

 

 

1m is what I would normally be happy to go with but these are being recessed, around 30mm inside the fixture.   

[revelation]

9 hours ago, IanR said:

I've used similar units from Colingwood. Although integrated LEDs, rather than GU10's

 

The ones I've used have a 38° beam angle and are 5.5W. I have 8 (two rows of 4) over a dining area that is approx 6m x 5m and they light the area well, even though it's part of an open plan living area so no wall on two sides to reflect the light back in to the "room".

 

I am wishing I'd gone for GU10's rather than integrated LEDs for these. Even though Collingwood give a 7 year warranty, if they fail in 10 years they'll be a pain to replace.

 

I would be using LED GU10 bulbs on these.  We were going to have 2-3  switches to zone areas too, that's why I was thinking of going for around 35 ish as suggested by another person.

[revelation]

8 hours ago, nod said:

I’ve plastered to these a few times

If there the same The bulb fitting is magnetic We put a timber pattress behind each fitting as staples wouldn’t hold 

The electricians attach a cord to the wires and tape it to the insisted as they are to narrow to get your hand in the fitting 

They look great when finished 

 

I am not sure that I follow in regards to the timber pattress and staples, I thought that screws are used to secure it to the plasterboard.

 

I have only really seen them in brochures so good to know they look the part once finished.

[nod]

The ones Ive plastered to are metal and 5 mil in depth and simply wouldn’t stay flat to the ceiling with just a screw in the pb

So we added a 400 x200 pattress to each one 19000 sq ft house So there was a lot 

[PeterW]

See if you can get the ones with an infil that you remove after as cleaning plaster and paint out of them is a pain and the ones I’ve seen used are easily scratched. Also make sure they are perfectly level with the surface they are shining on to - get them slightly off and it shows ..!

[revelation]

3 hours ago, nod said:

The ones Ive plastered to are metal and 5 mil in depth and simply wouldn’t stay flat to the ceiling with just a screw in the pb

So we added a 400 x200 pattress to each one 19000 sq ft house So there was a lot 

 

How was the wood pattress added? I guess I will put one in and see how it goes, if they dont stay flat then maybe a few small pieces of wood either side and then screw through the plasterboard into the wood behind.