Removing pencil and grime from oak veneer

[dangti6]

I have an unfinished oak veneered door which I need to slap some osmo oil on.

 

There are numerous pencil marks from hanging it. Also a few marks which appear to be grubby or greasy finger marks from handling which I don't want to enhance with the oil.

 

I ran some white spirit over the short edge as a test, and it didn't shift the pencil. I tried an eraser but the pencil is quite deep in the grain. I'm yet to sand, but as it'll be a light key sand I don't think I'll have much luck there within the grain either.

 

Acetone is one contender. I'm reluctant to try it though for fear of it staining. Anyone had luck with it on similar? Unsure if it's more suited to solid timber rather than thin white oak veneer.  

Edited November 11, 2021 by dangti6

[ProDave]

I just sanded ours.  Unless you pressed very hard with a hard pencil, the pencil marks should just rub off with the sander.  Ditto the grease etc.

[markc]

As above, sand the pencil marks first then keeping the dust on the sand (glass) paper do the grease marks, the dust rubs into the grease and helps draw it out of the grain

[dangti6]

I have just had a tickle with some 180 grit - the finest I could find within my stash and it's working ?

 

This is my first oiling job so it's all new to me. Am I right in saying 180 is too rough? Doesn't feel like it is. I'll take a trip out and get some 240/320 if that's the way to go for a better finish. 

[markc]

16 minutes ago, dangti6 said:

I have just had a tickle with some 180 grit - the finest I could find within my stash and it's working ?

 

This is my first oiling job so it's all new to me. Am I right in saying 180 is too rough? Doesn't feel like it is. I'll take a trip out and get some 240/320 if that's the way to go for a better finish. 

180 is fine (no pun intended) I have just done a load of solid oak worktops and used 80 grit on a belt sander to take the shear off and then a quick once over with 120. allow the oil to soak in,  buff over by hand and fantastic finish

hardest part to learn is that tickling the timber while sanding makes the bits show up more, be brave and give it a good overall sand so the oil soaks in evenly

Edited November 11, 2021 by markc

[Temp]

Perhaps try a fine brass wire brush on the pencil marks? Not a steel one.

[Makeitstop]

If it were on my own doors, I'd be starting with nothing coarser than 240g max, and in fact, probably 400g.

 

In fact, a good quality 400 wet / dry should remove pencil, no bother at all.

 

Using anything coarse like 180g, especially with any force, will take more than required off. Be careful

 

Also, when oil finishing any hardwood, you'll achieve a nicer feel and finish by miles using a max of 320-400g abrasive.

 

Use a small dead flat block, wrap abrasive around it and use that. 

Edited November 11, 2021 by Makeitstop

[dangti6]

I rubbed it down with 180 grit on a block which took the marks and pencil off and applied the first coat at the weekend. Another brief rub over, again with 180 grit this morning and gone over with a second coat of osmo door oil.

 

Beautiful stull to use, it really is. I was particularly careful to not apply too much oil, and laid it off before a wipe over with a microfibre cloth to take any excess off.

 

The first coat was dry in less than 24h at ~13 degrees. 

 

 

[Makeitstop]

Glad it worked out well.

 

It is worth keeping in mind though, that 180g is fairly coarse, and would not be the grade used to finish the doors when they were manufactured. 180 is a grade used more as an intermediate grit between reduction and final finish grades, so is arguably more aggressive than would be required.

 

As long as you had a good result, that's what matters.