WWilts Posted October 21, 2021 Share Posted October 21, 2021 Window support, angle bracket. & other details for builder Ok? Not? Inner block will have parge coat (ecoparge if available) + plasterboard on adhesive ribbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted October 21, 2021 Author Share Posted October 21, 2021 Adapted from @Iceverge's brilliant idea, v2.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 Aircrete blocks are naff, move crack and have poor adhesion to mortar especially on perp joints i used steel dowels to sit my bigger windows on built into the outside skin reveal central angle bracket is useless if only fixed to the top brick, use 600mm heavy duty once bent strap fixed bottom middle and top to the masonry or a plate but plate would be a thermal bridge 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 As above Solid concrete blocks are better Make sure the joints are well pointed I use tons of parge coat per year Complete waste of money and will encourage dabbers not to run continuously dabbs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted October 22, 2021 Author Share Posted October 22, 2021 (edited) 5 minutes ago, nod said: Complete waste of money Why is parge coat a waste? (apart from encouraging poor workmanship from dabbers) Cracking? Porotherm standard practice is ecoparge (not using Porotherm here, but we assumed same principle applies) Edited October 22, 2021 by WWilts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 I did similar, my cills are angled bricks which overshoot the cavity a little, rested the windows on the cills and used the same brackets as you up both sides. I used expanding foam tape between window and surrounding brick (my windows fitted check reveals, I.e. windows fitted to inside skin of outside brickwork). As we had solid render and plaster coating inside I only parged between floors where plaster etc did not extend. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 (edited) 28 minutes ago, WWilts said: Why is parge coat a waste? (apart from encouraging poor workmanship from dabbers) Cracking? Porotherm standard practice is ecoparge (not using Porotherm here, but we assumed same principle applies) As a business We use it for sound coating The air should be getting to the block work The boards and ceiling should be sealed and around all the sockets I’ve been using Parge for over 30 years Sand and cement before that While it’s effective for sound deadening It’s a waste of money for airtightness When it is specked in a contract I always refer to it as sound block As I’ve already said it encourages the plasterers that work for me not to seal everything off probably If warm air is getting through to the block work You’ve got problems One large company that we do around 40 houses per year for used Parge on every house and every wall That stoped about 5 years ago when they agreed to pay there brickies an extra £1 m2 to point and bar rub every joint No more gaps and snots Parge on party walls only Edited October 22, 2021 by nod 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeGrahamT21 Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 Even with a parge coat you'll likely get cracking on aircrete blocks. I'd go even further than this, and use a parge coat with embedded mesh, this may give a little more resilience. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted October 22, 2021 Author Share Posted October 22, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, nod said: point and bar rub every joint Will tooled concave joints do the trick re air tightness? That's what the builders are doing Edited October 22, 2021 by WWilts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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