A North Wales dad making a bigger home

[SteamyTea]

18 minutes ago, pocster said:

Still waiting for comments on mine

Dig a deep hole and bury your first attempt of building a house in it.

Then build a new one on top.

[joe90]

39 minutes ago, pocster said:

Still waiting for comments on mine ???

No, the mods will ban me ?

[Paul Alan]

47 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

An architect will work to minimum building regulations, while charging extra because they are 'the professional'. 

You really need to do a thermal model.

 

Now as you like woodworking, have you considered a stick build?

 

 

I would love a timber framed jobbie I would make the with my handsaw and a big ole chisel. 

 

Thing is now the plans are drawn up and passed I think I have to stick with it???

[SteamyTea]

1 minute ago, Paul Alan said:

Thing is now the plans are drawn up and passed I think I have to stick with it

It is your project, not the architects.

[Paul Alan]

34 minutes ago, Ferdinand said:

 

TBH 50mm isn't very much either :-).

 

IMO 50mm is just the smallest thickness that won't snap when you sneeze on it.

 

I think one criteria to think about is self-educating enough that you can have nearly equal-to-equal conversations with your 'tect on this sort of issue, so you are confident enough to say "No, I want to do *that*" and explain why to your own satisfaction. So you get to make the mix of compromises you need.

 

As I know very little I had hardly any input with building specifications, i just told him what building I wanted he drew it up. 

 

I wouldn't want to ask him too much, just incase he invoices me!

 

 

 

[Paul Alan]

3 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

It is your project, not the architects.

So it's not set in stone ( so to speak)

 

Would I need to reapply to planning?

[SteamyTea]

2 minutes ago, Paul Alan said:

Would I need to reapply to planning

Probably not. This is a building control issue, not a planning one.

[Paul Alan]

4 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Probably not. This is a building control issue, not a planning one.

It's a 2 story side extension though, I can't imagine that in timber. The rear extension is one story and would look great in timber.

That would make me so happy to build with timber but I know the price nearly doubled recently. 

 

I wander if I could save money with a rear timber extension?

 

Many thanks 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Paul Alan]

1 hour ago, joe90 said:

Good idea, can you post your drawings here, you will get lots of comments on how you can make it better.

 

72 Lon Glanfor - Outline Building Specification (1).pdf 72 Lon Glanfor - Building Regulations Drawings.pdf

[ETC]

Have the drawings and speciation document received BC approval? The reason I ask is that some of the notes in relation to sound to the intermediate floor may need looked at again.

 

What changes do you want to make? The plan form looks like it’s trying to be as cost effective as possible.

 

The documents uploaded seem comprehensive enough and it looks like a simple build - your architect seems to have designed you something that appears to be inexpensive to build.

 

You’ll probably need a SHS post at the front LHS corner and the rear wall panel and opening might need a couple of SHS posts in it.

 

I also don’t see any smoke or heat alarms or an emergency egress window from the new bedroom although the specification has the EEW notes in it.

 

I presume the store is for storing your bins?

 

Where’s your boiler?

[ADLIan]

The sound insulation to the intermediate floor looks ok, pretty much straight from AD E. Cavity wall spec will not give U=21! Perhaps nearer to 0.28?

[Paul Alan]

48 minutes ago, ETC said:

Have the drawings and speciation document received BC approval? The reason I ask is that some of the notes in relation to sound to the intermediate floor may need looked at again.

 

What changes do you want to make? The plan form looks like it’s trying to be as cost effective as possible.

 

The documents uploaded seem comprehensive enough and it looks like a simple build - your architect seems to have designed you something that appears to be inexpensive to build.

 

You’ll probably need a SHS post at the front LHS corner and the rear wall panel and opening might need a couple of SHS posts in it.

 

I also don’t see any smoke or heat alarms or an emergency egress window from the new bedroom although the specification has the EEW notes in it.

 

I presume the store is for storing your bins?

 

Where’s your boiler?

I have submitted all the drawings/notes to BC. I can only presume they see  no issue's. 

 

Àfter a previous suggestion of building a timber framed building I liked the idea of, I was interested to know if it was possible to make  changes at this stage. I wood feel much more confident working with timber as opposed to brick and mortar. 

 

The boiler is currently in the kitchen at the rear left , we would much prefer it not to be there. The utility area on the opposite of the wall it's on would be nice.

 

The store will home the bins and maybe the kids bikes too

 

Many thanks 

[ETC]

Check with BC to see if they have approved the drawings and specification.

 

I’d go with blocks and mortar. A timber frame will need an engineer or specialist to design the frame and BC will more than likely require a structural certificate for the design and possibly the as-built frame and perhaps the roof trusses. They will more than likely need you to submit additional detail in relation to the timber frame. Check with them.

 

I don’t see the problem moving the boiler. You’ll need a Gas Safe engineer to move it for you and you’ll need a CO alarm and somewhere to drain the condensate.

[Paul Alan]

9 hours ago, ETC said:

Check with BC to see if they have approved the drawings and specification.

 

I’d go with blocks and mortar. A timber frame will need an engineer or specialist to design the frame and BC will more than likely require a structural certificate for the design and possibly the as-built frame and perhaps the roof trusses. They will more than likely need you to submit additional detail in relation to the timber frame. Check with them.

 

I don’t see the problem moving the boiler. You’ll need a Gas Safe engineer to move it for you and you’ll need a CO alarm and somewhere to drain the condensate.

Could be simpler to remain as is then.

 

I will consider moving the boiler, I may even need to upgrade it to meet the increased demand.

 

I will definitely have an engineer do all gas side of things and provide the relevant documentation 

 

Many thanks