Hi there folks.

 

We have 2, stacked, IBC tanks which we were hoping to run a supply to the static caravan with, using an inline booster pump.

 

We bought a salamander pump and connected it up. However, due to the height of the sinks and appliances in the van, we appear to have a negative pressure and the pump wouldn't work. We thought the output of the top tank was about a bar and that would be sufficient.

 

So, before we have to get a third IBC tank stacked up on top, does anyone have any suggestions, it's a temporary solution until Scottish water get their act together and give us mains on site.

 

 

Don’t use IBC’s sunlight will encourage growth and the y will turn green in no time.

potable water tanks need to be kept cool and dark

We have a constant supply going (very slowly) to the top tank from a previous old supply - Just enough to keep it moving. and we're using bottled water for cooking, washing up etc - Just tying to get some temp supply for flushing toilets and showers. Can cover with tarps if required.

2 minutes ago, KTB said:

We have a constant supply going (very slowly) to the top tank from a previous old supply - Just enough to keep it moving. and we're using bottled water for cooking, washing up etc - Just tying to get some temp supply for flushing toilets and showers. Can cover with tarps if required.

Ahh, much better. And yes if you cover with a tarp growth will be prevented.

can’t see why the booster pump would not work,

The plumber reckoned it was the difference in height between the valve on the top IBC tank and the actual height above ground level of the sink, central heating boiler and toilet, causing a negative pressure difference ?? It was a salamander pump, but it did nothing.

Edited August 19, 20215 yr by KTB

A pump that cannot pump uphill is pretty pointless, 

maybe it needs a bigger differential pressure between in and out to trigger an auto start

We tried putting the finger over the output to up the pressure and get it going, but nothing - There should be more than enough power to get the water into the van from a £300 pump agreed 

Can you post a link to the pump you have?

yeah it was this one https://www.salamanderpumps.co.uk/product/homeboost/11 

 

Just looking at the specs and installation guide, I would guess there is not enough input pressure, can you put the pump on the floor, hose from top IBC tap to pump,this should get you enough input pressure to activate

1 minute ago, markc said:

Just looking at the specs and installation guide, I would guess there is not enough input pressure, can you put the pump on the floor, hose from top IBC tap to pump,this should get you enough input pressure to activate

yes, That's exactly what we did ? but It didn't work - plumber said there was a bar going into the pump - I took it back to screwfix.

You could use something like a Clarke Tam pump which I've used for various things over the years. Once primed, they will pump no probs what so ever and are pretty hardy. Only issue would be having some sort of pressure/flow switch needed in the pipework to turn the pump on and off

3 minutes ago, Vijay said:

You could use something like a Clarke Tam pump which I've used for various things over the years. Once primed, they will pump no probs what so ever and are pretty hardy. Only issue would be having some sort of pressure/flow switch needed in the pipework to turn the pump on and off

Cheers - like this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254302845626?epid=14012074259&hash=item3b35a17aba:g:H6AAAOSwjvxdMc4U 

52 minutes ago, KTB said:

yeah it was this one https://www.salamanderpumps.co.uk/product/homeboost/11 

 

I have not looked in detail, but I suspect the pump is activated by a flow switch and comes on when you draw water.  If your tap is higher than the water level in your IBC's then there will be no flow whatsoever to trigger the pump to start.

 

Your water level needs to be high enough that at least something flows from the tap without the pump.

 

Otherwise you are looking at an accumulator and pump operated from a pressure switch so the pump runs to charge the accumulator.

1 minute ago, ProDave said:

I have not looked in detail, but I suspect the pump is activated by a flow switch and comes on when you draw water.  If your tap is higher than the water level in your IBC's then there will be no flow whatsoever to trigger the pump to start.

 

Your water level needs to be high enough that at least something flows from the tap without the pump.

 

Otherwise you are looking at an accumulator and pump operated from a pressure switch so the pump runs to charge the accumulator.

Thanks Dave - We had a light water flow throughout the static direct from the upper IBC without the pump, so that wasn't the issue - It wasnt enough to fill and run the combi boiler. The salamander was meant to have a green light whenever activated, but that never came on despite efforts to get rid of any potential air locks and back priming it. 

I use a Clarke BPT 1200SS booster pump, this sucks the water up 2m from a well and then pumps it up at at a guess 6m to a loft header tank, it has a pressurised bladder in it as well so the pump is not switching on and off all the time.

Works by sensing the pressure in the line, from memory pump switches on at 0.5 bar and off at 2.5 bar but don’t quote me on that. Works very well and I think it would be more suitable for your needs. 

1 hour ago, KTB said:

Cheers - like this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254302845626?epid=14012074259&hash=item3b35a17aba:g:H6AAAOSwjvxdMc4U 

 

I've used the Tam105 pump but I believe this is the replacement for it https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-bip1000-1-electric-water-pump/?da=1&TC=GS-051011330&gclid=CjwKCAjwgviIBhBkEiwA10D2jyB8AXfQ5YbSNAtXoDgwmghtTgqZUn-fRFzmsCc73Bk62sw9H7DFvRoC7kQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds