Seeking advice re standard of roofing work

[dave1899]

Building control have said that the flashing kit needs to be installed as per the manufacturer's instructions which, having looked into it, means the tiles need to run up to between 30 - 60mm from the edge of the Velux. Clearly there's a much bigger gap. I'll be requesting that the matter is corrected regardless of the amount of work involved. 

[Declan52]

1 minute ago, dave1899 said:

Building control have said that the flashing kit needs to be installed as per the manufacturer's instructions which, having looked into it, means the tiles need to run up to between 30 - 60mm from the edge of the Velux. Clearly there's a much bigger gap. I'll be requesting that the matter is corrected regardless of the amount of work involved. 

Not a lot of work and can all be done from the inside. Pop the window out and remove the inside row of tiles that are cut short. Replace with tiles that rest on the foam and are long enough to bridge the gap so it sits over the ridge. 

That's the easy bit. The ugly lead work won't be as easy fixed.

[Cpd]

34 minutes ago, dave1899 said:

Building control have said that the flashing kit needs to be installed as per the manufacturer's instructions which, having looked into it, means the tiles need to run up to between 30 - 60mm from the edge of the Velux.

I used the same flashings on my tin roof and went with the 30mm gap, no way water is going to track back under the tin ! 
It’s obviously wrong on your roof and needs fixing, 

seen so many badly fitted roofs around velux windows……l 

[dave1899]

Hi again,

 

Can I just ask if the lead flashing is actually installed correctly?  I agree it doesn't look good, but is it meant to be installed into the brick underneath the render rather than the current installation?  

 

I've seen other far neater looking jobs where they've hacked off the render above where the roof meets the wall and installed the flashing underneath the lip of the old render.  This looks far nicer to me. 

 

[markc]

59 minutes ago, dave1899 said:

Hi again,

 

Can I just ask if the lead flashing is actually installed correctly?  I agree it doesn't look good, but is it meant to be installed into the brick underneath the render rather than the current installation?  

 

I've seen other far neater looking jobs where they've hacked off the render above where the roof meets the wall and installed the flashing underneath the lip of the old render.  This looks far nicer to me. 
 

yes the flashing should go into the brickwork (ideally). Render can come away and water can get behind so cutting into the brick/block course prevents water getting behind the flashing

 

 

[dave1899]

Thanks Mark.  

[dave1899]

On 14/07/2021 at 07:53, Dave Jones said:

not to add more to your hassle, but you have a cold roof. These have to breath to stop them sweating and getting mould buildup especially in very humid areas like kitchens. 

 

Normally this is done by leaving a minimum 50mm gap between the tiles and insulation with ventialtion at the ridge and gutter.

 

Has this extension had any checks from building control ?

 The roofers have been back and have added small cuts of tile closer to the flashing although I can't see any foam underneath the newly added tile. 

 

There are now several tiles sitting up out of line near the top of the roof and the tiles rise from right to left at the top of the Velux.  

 

What are your thoughts if you don't mind sharing? (See photos.)

[Dave Jones]

if they haven't had the Velux out i cant see how they can have fixed the felt not being lapped up instead of pulled inside.

 

As someone else previously said I think, the way they have spaced them they do not work tiles hence all those tiny cuts.

 

If it was me id want that roof off and doing properly by someone who knows what they are doing.

[dave1899]

1 hour ago, Dave Jones said:

if they haven't had the Velux out i cant see how they can have fixed the felt not being lapped up instead of pulled inside.

 

As someone else previously said I think, the way they have spaced them they do not work tiles hence all those tiny cuts.

 

If it was me id want that roof off and doing properly by someone who knows what they are doing.

 

Thanks for your response Dave.  I think the felt going through the Velux may have been removed prior the tiles going on. The carpenters had attempted to make the roof water tight as a temporary measure as the tiles were delayed.

 

Can I assume that the gap created where the tiles have risen out of lock requires fixing?  From what I have read online it could be rain water or bug infestations getting in underneath?

[Declan52]

How are the tiny pieces of tile held in place??

[dave1899]

14 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

How are the tiny pieces of tile held in place??

I assume by the tiles surrounding them?  I have no other idea. 

[Declan52]

They would be nailed to the batton but as they are so small they have to have used some sort of adhesive otherwise the first bit of wind you get they are going on their holidays and not coming back.

[dave1899]

2 hours ago, Declan52 said:

They would be nailed to the batton but as they are so small they have to have used some sort of adhesive otherwise the first bit of wind you get they are going on their holidays and not coming back.

I think they've used grab adhesive as I spotted a used tube in the skip next to the tile cuttings. 

 

Do you know if they will have needed to have installed cavity trays? I'm pretty sure they didn't and my old outside wall now extends below the roofline.

 

Thanks. 

[Dave Jones]

problem you have is the roof has to come off to sort the tiny slivers of roof tile as the way the velux have been spaced doesnt work to the gauge of tile.  If it does come off then the wall plate can be dropped 6" so the leadwork can be done properly under the window.

 

I'm guessing the 'builder' want be wanting to do this though so it comes down to you living with it or sacking them off and getting someone else in to do it properly.

 

Post a photo of the area where your looking at cavity tray.

 

 

[dave1899]

44 minutes ago, Dave Jones said:

problem you have is the roof has to come off to sort the tiny slivers of roof tile as the way the velux have been spaced doesnt work to the gauge of tile.  If it does come off then the wall plate can be dropped 6" so the leadwork can be done properly under the window.

 

I'm guessing the 'builder' want be wanting to do this though so it comes down to you living with it or sacking them off and getting someone else in to do it properly.

 

Post a photo of the area where your looking at cavity tray.

 

 

Not sure if this is what you're asking for regarding cavity tray?

[dave1899]

These may be more useful...

[Dave Jones]

your last photo shows it clearly, the pitch is too steep so there isnt enough room for a 150 lead upstand against the wall plate as its too tight to the window.

 

A tray isnt really of any use on the window, it just needs to be sealed. Looks like they have pushed the lead under it  but then not sealed it so there is big gaps. This needs sealing.

 

It's hard to tell from the photo, is there a dpc fitted ? Also did they fit more truss trimmers under each velux ?

 

[dave1899]

15 minutes ago, Dave Jones said:

your last photo shows it clearly, the pitch is too steep so there isnt enough room for a 150 lead upstand against the wall plate as its too tight to the window.

 

A tray isnt really of any use on the window, it just needs to be sealed. Looks like they have pushed the lead under it  but then not sealed it so there is big gaps. This needs sealing.

 

It's hard to tell from the photo, is there a dpc fitted ? Also did they fit more truss trimmers under each velux ?

 

Hi Dave,

 

Yes they have fitted DPC at the blue line above. 

 

I feel satisfied with the work the actual building company have completed.  They did all the preparation for the roof itself.  It's the tiling job the contracted roofing company did that concerns me. Due to the raised profile of the tiles used and the poor installation of them I'm concerned that water/bugs could get in underneath.  I've not seen tiles like these installed on a roof before.

 

Regarding the flashing at the top, I agree it looks horrible, but I just don't want it to leak.

 

Could you see a possible fix without having to remove everything and start again? 

[Dave Jones]

if the lead is not sealed under the window, water will find its way in as there doesn't look to be a cill on it ?

 

if you watch the Velux install video i posted earlier you can see exactly how the tiles should sit,  they need to grind off the nibbs at the back of the tiles so they sit flat. it wont help you with the small cuts though unless you move the Velux so that it works to the bond of the tiles.

 

The job needs to be thought out from the start to take account of these as they are hard to fix after as you are finding. Its the difference between a competent builder and a not so competent one.

 

 

[dave1899]

28 minutes ago, Dave Jones said:

if the lead is not sealed under the window, water will find its way in as there doesn't look to be a cill on it ?

 

if you watch the Velux install video i posted earlier you can see exactly how the tiles should sit,  they need to grind off the nibbs at the back of the tiles so they sit flat. it wont help you with the small cuts though unless you move the Velux so that it works to the bond of the tiles.

 

The job needs to be thought out from the start to take account of these as they are hard to fix after as you are finding. Its the difference between a competent builder and a not so competent one.

 

 

Thanks again for your response.

 

I'm going to take the weekend to weigh up my options, but my instinct is to get a professional out to get a close look at the issues raised here.

 

I very much appreciate everyone's time in getting back to me.

[Dave Jones]

12 hours ago, dave1899 said:

Thanks again for your response.

 

I'm going to take the weekend to weigh up my options, but my instinct is to get a professional out to get a close look at the issues raised here.

 

I very much appreciate everyone's time in getting back to me.

 

thats a good idea. Its not a lot of work to strip and redo that roof properly, a day to get it off a day to recut the trusses properly to drop them 150mm to enable the lead to be fixed and set out the velux spacing so they work to your tile gauge.