Which Compriband?

[MortarThePoint]

1 minute ago, Mr Punter said:

I have had a contractor not use the Compriband and their stuff has turned to crumb in 3 years.

 

That's not so encouraging ?

 

The Iso Chemie Bloco 600 is '10 year performance guarantee*'

[Mr Punter]

Just now, MortarThePoint said:

 

That's not so encouraging ?

 

The Iso Chemie Bloco 600 is '10 year performance guarantee*'

 

No I am mighty pissed off.  Very very inaccessible as well.

[SimonD]

11 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

I have had a contractor not use the Compriband and their stuff has turned to crumb in 3 years.

Always difficult to know exactly what product they might have used. Both the Lynvale and Xpanda tapes have BBA certs with expected lifespan equal to that of Compriband. They're also not exactly cheap alternatives.

Edited August 9, 2021 by SimonD

[craig]

TP600, 15 year warranty, 25 year life expectancy and BBA certified.

 

[Hilldes]

On 09/08/2021 at 11:18, MortarThePoint said:

 

Thinking about the ORANGE tape, there are two other obvious options below. It could contribute to air tightness, but ultimately the cavity closer also needs to be sealed to the blockwork which obviously can't be achieved by any tape on the frame.

 

Make it wider:

 

Move it to where there is another 'pocket' which I think is for the fixing lugs:

 Would you use tape for the orange section? The data sheets for the windows I have specify squirty cream (aka expanding foam) for the bit in the middle (assuming your pinks items are the airtightness seal).

 

P.S. on the width of expanding foam tape, I used 20mm throughout, I think you may get a good seal with less, but with 20mm you can misalign slightly (virtually impossible to get a really straight run in narrow gaps). I think to some extent the gap size of the tape also determines the widths available (i.e. larger tape widths for bigger gaps).

Edited August 10, 2021 by Hilldes
added a P.S.

[MortarThePoint]

3 hours ago, Hilldes said:

 Would you use tape for the orange section? The data sheets for the windows I have specify squirty cream (aka expanding foam) for the bit in the middle (assuming your pinks items are the airtightness seal).

 

Most people use low expansion spray foam I think, but I'm going to try an expanding foam tape. As you say the airtightness is then done separately.

 

3 hours ago, Hilldes said:

P.S. on the width of expanding foam tape, I used 20mm throughout, I think you may get a good seal with less, but with 20mm you can misalign slightly (virtually impossible to get a really straight run in narrow gaps). I think to some extent the gap size of the tape also determines the widths available (i.e. larger tape widths for bigger gaps).

 

Thanks. Did you take your tape yo flush with the front face of the window or still recessed behind? The second being either filling a groove or overflowing behind. If not groove, I guess its a matter of how close did you get to the front face of the frame?

 

 

 

 

[Hilldes]

2 hours ago, MortarThePoint said:

Thanks. Did you take your tape yo flush with the front face of the window or still recessed behind? The second being either filling a groove or overflowing behind. If not groove, I guess its a matter of how close did you get to the front face of the frame?

Some frames did not have recesses as such, so I set back circa 10 mm to make any non-straight runs of tape less visible. Other frames did have recesses - of circa 25mm width which needed to be missed and the tape placed on the wooden frame behind the recess (see pic above on V200E). I'm still deliberating how to seal the bifolds which do have a recess at the front that the tape would need to sit within (see pic below). I'm sure in practice the recess is deeper than shown in the pic and if the tape does not site neatly in the recess (i.e. parts in and parts out of the recess) we'll see a wavy line of tape as the recess is so close to the front on the frame.

 

 

 

 

[MortarThePoint]

12 hours ago, Hilldes said:

Other frames did have recesses - of circa 25mm width which needed to be missed and the tape placed on the wooden frame behind the recess (see pic above on V200E).

 

Sorry forgot that. So that leaves a pocket 12mm by about 40mm around the window. Are you sealing that off with anything or leaving it open to the outside?

[Hilldes]

On 11/08/2021 at 07:03, MortarThePoint said:

 

Sorry forgot that. So that leaves a pocket 12mm by about 40mm around the window. Are you sealing that off with anything or leaving it open to the outside?

Manufacturer spec says leave open to the outside for the V200 Energy "No sealant material beyond the dotted line":

But differs depending on the type of window.

[MortarThePoint]

19 hours ago, Hilldes said:

Manufacturer spec says leave open to the outside for the V200 Energy "No sealant material beyond the dotted line":

But differs depending on the type of window.

 

Interesting, so is that an Aluminium/Plastic/Aluminium sash with timber frame? Makes sense to have no sealant past the end of the timber frame. Does leave a bit of a spider home, but spiders are good.

 

[gcm]

We looked (and debated with planning) these very windows V200 vs a Rationel FORMA+ Alu clad and some others.
The profile is very different from most - the larger drainage/spider trap debated here and the metal being thrown a lot further forward from the window than with the Rationel.   I think it may be the better design but can't really justify that with data.  It's a lot more modern looking - clean lines - offices and apartments look - and their glazing bars solution (again for planning this was a thing for me) are quite different.  Rationel is arguably a lot more traditional setting friendly. 

This odd profile came up. For our application (retrofit) when we took one old window out temporarily with the possible Velfac installer pre-purchase from Direct. We found that the greater depth to the timber was a problem in achieving the same front face / brick reveal depth (again for planning) and then siting the timber work and securing correctly on the established brick/block.  So for us Rationel would likely fit and Velfac V200 would possibly not (at least for *some* of our apertures - unknown until old windows out and sat there with the expensive new V200 on the patio.  Was glad I found out before I had a truck of bespoke sized windows. Horses for courses but a cautionary tale to check that specific dimension very carefully on the design or your building if retrofit like me

Per the thread - we used the wider version of the ilbrook/tremco stuff and got on fine with it. Summer install from the fridge but mid 20s.  Our gaps were mostly on the "wider" end most of our apertures are not in fact rectangles so poking it in wasn't too bad other than a few spots.
 

Edited November 18, 2021 by gcm

[Hilldes]

Fully agree on the V200s @gcm - need to model the window frame in your external wall build up. Our larger V200s had I think had 147mm deep frame profiles which meant they basically sat within the whole 140mm timber stud wall and just overlap the outer render board layer a little. This meant the only option for fixing wast through bolting where the lugs (special brackets) would have been a neater solution. Perhaps would have been better if we had a rendered block outer skin.

 

On the Ilbruk/ tremco tapes I can only think I had a bad batch as they just expanded far too rapidly.

[craig]

8 hours ago, Hilldes said:

On the Ilbruk/ tremco tapes I can only think I had a bad batch as they just expanded far too rapidly.

 

Temperature plays a part in the expansion, you're better buying the belt to keep it rolled tight when not in use.