Jump to content

Recessed thermostatic shower valve stupidity


Pocster

Recommended Posts

1 minute ago, pocster said:

Ok . The square collar has an internal o ring which does indeed go against the spindle collar . It’s this other o ring I don’t get . Taking it all apart , putting it on the collar ( so it would have a o ring inside and outside ) it won’t fit in the face plate . You can see it’s mega tight 

646764B7-5954-4A8A-84F8-95A538189A06.jpeg

F2EF4358-5D7D-42AF-A9E2-456361FE9BB1.jpeg

88E2079E-5433-4F05-B731-4C58322B3D5C.jpeg

398B6E9F-CA98-426D-AE7C-EFA489A32B6C.jpeg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

This is why we keep a good few spares, don’t we......?

Yeah but I use all the spares for my f ups ! Then there are no spares ?

Looking at the ensuite one again . I’ve marked in pencil the face plate corners . Might be able to dremel a wider opening so I can get to the fixing screws and perhaps pack them out 

F2634C76-60FB-43AA-9CC4-EC4D3FDF5CA5.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But apart from all that, life’s good ?. What doesn’t kill you....etc.
Chill, breathe, it’s just another day in paradise. Nowt will change it and stress is a killer. 
 

7 minutes ago, pocster said:

Yeah but I use all the spares for my f ups ! Then there are no spares ?

Looking at the ensuite one again . I’ve marked in pencil the face plate corners . Might be able to dremel a wider opening so I can get to the fixing screws and perhaps pack them out 

F2634C76-60FB-43AA-9CC4-EC4D3FDF5CA5.jpeg

Yes, go for that if you know you have at least 10mm play in the plumbing? Don’t stress the pipework, it’ll just leak. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

But apart from all that, life’s good ?. What doesn’t kill you....etc.
Chill, breathe, it’s just another day in paradise. Nowt will change it and stress is a killer. 
 

Yes, go for that if you know you have at least 10mm play in the plumbing? Don’t stress the pipework, it’ll just leak. 

No idea if pipework has enough play ! Will find out ! . Now what about that “ what do I do with it “ o ring ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Could I 3D print something?

Not sure . I think access is the issue . But let me get those 4 screws out first - make sure enough slack in the pipework ( all Hep2o so assume ok )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

1 hour ago, pocster said:

Actually I can think of something that would pack it out and give me access . But let me get those 4 screws out first !

 

We've some ABS filament here which would do I reckon. We need to crack printing in it anyway!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you really had wanted to make life hard for yourself you would have let your architect spec Vado taps for you like we mistakenly did on a 88 unit scheme!  2mm max tolerance for the bodies otherwise the square surrounds would not be straight.

 

What a nightmare.

 

 

IMG_5185.JPG

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doesn’t need to be strong if it’s only a spacer as it’s in compression. I would mark round the face plate, draw 20mm in and then cut the tile away and pull the valve forward. Mucking about with those little cuts you’re more likely to crack the tile. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think some companies make longer chrome tubes and matching brass innards for this situation. I'd wait until you can contact the maker on Monday.

 

Edit: Fir example Perrin & Rowe make 19mm and 30mm extension sets for deep cavities. No idea if they fit Roper Rhodes though.

 

Edited by Temp
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can’t sleep  - this keeping me awake .

Be nice if the valve was on a caddy with a screw at the front that can move the whole assembly back and forth .

Anyway found an old photo . Looks like in theory it should come forward ok ... 

2001AE42-B02F-4BD1-ACDF-A30CADE84E11.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, pocster said:

Can’t sleep

Me neither. Having a malfunctioning brain is a pita. Hey-ho.

 

All you need is 4 small squares of 9mm or 12mm plywood, say 30mm square, turn a 4" screw into the corner of them ( like a bit of cheese on a cocktail stick ) and then use the 4" screw to allow you to insert the square and rotate it behind the fixing hole. Send the shower fixing screw back all the way through the shower and the plywood spacer and tighten up to the pinch pint, then relax it back off a bit. Repeat, and then let me know so I can get some shut-eye. 

Patience, so you don't fcuk the tiles up, would be best, so do it when you're sober and sane.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also still awake. Google suggest the extension kits are sometimes called "Deep rough in kits" or "deep rough extension" or similar. 

 

Example: https://www.nyrpcorp.com/bathroom-kitchen-shower-faucet-parts/shower-roughs/deep-rough-kits/

 

If your plumber accidentally roughed your shower valve to far in the wall or your tile contractors built the wall to far out after shower valve installation the solution may be a shower valve deep rough extension kit. Extend you shower valve out with a new deep rough extension kit."

 

When we had a problem with our mixer the chrome part was ok but the brass spline was the wrong length. I ended up cutting and resoldering it. 

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

when you're sober and sane

One of those I can manage . The other - not a chance ! 
Managed to get some sleep once I found that reassuring old photo 

Edited by pocster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, pocster said:

Can’t sleep  - this keeping me awake .

Be nice if the valve was on a caddy with a screw at the front that can move the whole assembly back and forth .

Anyway found an old photo . Looks like in theory it should come forward ok ... 

2001AE42-B02F-4BD1-ACDF-A30CADE84E11.jpeg


That looks like it will come forward but I would carefully slack those screws off with an ordinary driver and not an impact as it looks like you used cheap crap screws and the heads will chew up if they aren’t done slowly. 
 

Also - you need to make sure you find a decent level and find how you can set that veritical (or aligned with the tiles ....) as a rectangular plate will show. You may want to just put one screw back in tight over the @Nickfromwales Space-O-Matic ply spacer (good idea to also drill a hole through the spacer so you don’t have it jacking up off the timber)  and then put the shrouds and cover on to square it up. Then tighten up the mounting screws. 
 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...