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Fitting outside tap

Featured Replies

As the title suggests I am going to fit an outside tap. The mains comes into a separate boiler room (with pressure restrict or) and then splits to 3 feeds into the house (all with isolators in the boiler room). One of the feeds comes in under the kitchen sink as shown in the picture. 
 

Plan is to branch off the incoming 15mm just after the first 90 degree bend and before anything else. I understand I need a double check valve before it goes through the wall. Is it necessary to put an isolator in as well given that I can easily isolate this supply in the boiler room?

 

anything else relevant? Does it matter if the  pipe through the wall is level/sloping up or down?

 

any major difference between outside taps?

 

 

2E1ECBDD-C9D5-4347-AE4E-2C165A3E8D0B.jpeg

So I would start by sorting that pipework out .... strain on the tee and the pipe going back under the right is horrible and it will fail eventually !!! 
 

Then get some pipe clips and some stand offs and clip it all up. 

 

Best thing for an outside tap is one of the copper and brass units from S’Fix or similar. Bring it through the wall, compression elbow on the end into a short section of pipe, compression DCV and compression isolator, then into your tee / elbow from the supply. 
 

But all that lot needs sorting first ..!! I can hear @Nickfromwales grinding his teeth from here looking at that ..!!

  • Author
2 minutes ago, PeterW said:

So I would start by sorting that pipework out .... strain on the tee and the pipe going back under the right is horrible and it will fail eventually !!! 

Yes it isn’t great! And one of the reasons I want to sort it out. I’m also getting rid of the waste pipe behind as it is for a sink that was never used - should make it easier.

Should I use copper pipe from outside all the way to the isolator and then plastic from there?

  • Author

Also - would it be ok to put an equal t where the first 90 degree is and branch right for sink tap and put the outside tap feed on the left (before the dishwasher)? Or should the internal pipe work all follow after the outside tap?

Edited by jfb

Work done by another “plastic plumber” who recently upgraded from window cleaner when he saved up enough 2p’s to buy a speedfit cutter :S  Shockingly poor effort there. Please do ‘sort it’. 
Keep the 25x15mm JG fitting and push some 15mm copper pipe in. Do as you say and fit an equal tee with the copper into the branch and go left and right split into downturned 90o bends to suit. 
Put full bore isolators on each outgoing feed ( less the washing machine tap as that is an isolator ) and use JG fittings to convert to / from copper to pick up the existing stuff.

 

Talon clips come with an optional spacer to get you off the wall. Go to a plumbers merchants or screwies and you should be able to buy singularly or in packs of 10 respectively.

 

Please post a pic of the finished result so as to un-offend our eyes back to normal. :D 

Edited by Nickfromwales

3 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Top tip..... screw the tap into the wall fitting with PTFE tape before fixing, otherwise you will never get the tap upright and water tight.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/outside-tap-with-double-check-valve-15mm-x/37241#product_additional_details_container


https://www.screwfix.com/p/hose-union-back-plate-15mm/56415

 

No need. Fit the bib tap to the wall making sure the holes are nicely orientated. THEN put about 23 turns of tape on the thread and wind it in. You'll feel when it's tight enough, just never turn it back. 

 

20161028_130049

 

I might add my render is rock solid.

  • Author
28 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

use JG fittings to convert to / from copper to pick up the existing stuff.

Is it ok to have copper going into a compression isolator and then plastic coming out? 
thinking like this........

02DD7F81-AB27-4EC4-AD23-A82875ABDEC0.jpeg

  • Author
32 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Please post a pic of the finished result so as to un-offend our eyes back to normal.

I feel like I’m back at school!

3 minutes ago, jfb said:

Is it ok to have copper going into a compression isolator and then plastic coming out? 
thinking like this........

02DD7F81-AB27-4EC4-AD23-A82875ABDEC0.jpeg

Use a push fit fitting to go on to the copper with the push fit pipe going into that ‘plastic’ fitting. 
NEVER put push fit pipe into a metal / compression fitting. ;)  
 

4 minutes ago, jfb said:

I feel like I’m back at school!

Shut up and get on with your work ! :D 

  • Author
17 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Bingo.

Sorry last question - are you saying that I can put copper into that push fit isolator and plastic out? Or do I still need a converter before it?

30 minutes ago, jfb said:

Sorry last question - are you saying that I can put copper into that push fit isolator and plastic out? Or do I still need a converter before it?

 

Copper Pipe will fit straight in the JG fittings

 

40 minutes ago, jfb said:

Sorry last question - are you saying that I can put copper into that push fit isolator and plastic out? Or do I still need a converter before it?

Yes

9 minutes ago, wozza said:

 

Copper Pipe will fit straight in the JG fittings

 

And yes. ?
 

All push fit fittings take copper or plastic ;)  

Remember the inserts !!

Edited by Nickfromwales

18 minutes ago, pocster said:

Look @jfb even I did it !!! ???

image.jpg

 

Why not a brass one (that wouldn't rust)?

 

Actually I have one of those lever handle outside taps and prefer them. ?

18 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Why not a brass one (that wouldn't rust)?

 

The lever is better . Also F off 

1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said:

Play nicely. ?

You’re both right, now go back outside and get some sunlight on you. 

Thanks Uncle Nick . Did you know @Onoff has crabs ??

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