Confused by resins for masonry stud anchoring.

[epsilonGreedy]

I thought I would experiment with resin anchoring today in a trial brick. It is for a small task, I have two metal lateral restraint straps to fix to the facing bricks at the point of a pitched roof abutment. The purpose of the straps is to prevent the ridge and trusses easing away a few mm from the abutment wall.

 

The smallest metal studs for resin fixing seem to be 6mm.

 

My question:

 

Screwfix list different varieties of resin, which one should I use?

[Mr Punter]

As it has not been specced by an engineer, just buy the cheapest that will fit into whatever gun you have.

 

If it is just 6mm studs just use rawlplugs and screws.

Edited March 3, 2021 by Mr Punter

[epsilonGreedy]

22 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

As it has not been specced by an engineer, just buy the cheapest that will fit into whatever gun you have.

 

If it is just 6mm studs just use rawlplugs and screws.

 

 

I was a bit disappointed by rawplugs in inner wall blocks and so started looking at resin fixing.

 

When testing raw plugs prior to fitting wall plate straps to the internal blockwork I tried different screw sizes and drill bit sizes. Following advice from @joe90and drilled 0.5mm under size for a brown wall plug because the blocks were just on the light side of medium (Fibolites). The best combination (6.5mm bit + 5M wood screws could still be prized out with effort and a claw hammer. I was not troubled in the case of the wall plate straps because the load was at 90 degrees to the screws. However in the case of the roof abutment the load (if any) will be inline with the screws and pulling away from the wall.

 

Before opting for resin fixing maybe I should rerun the wall plug test in a facing brick, the extra hardness might grip the raw plug better.

Edited March 3, 2021 by epsilonGreedy

[Roys]

I use a fair bit of resin, usually just buying the cheapest. I have the resin gun which is a bit wider and heavier duty than a standard skeleton (silicone) gun. If you don’t have a resin gun make sure the tube of resin you buy fits a normal skeleton gun.

Also make sure the drilled hole has been dusted out, either by a resin bicycle type pump to blow the dust out of by a vacuum cleaner with a bit of 6mm tube botched on to the end of the hose with duct tape, and when you start to use it the first 3 or 4 inches of resin  is not used as it won’t be mixed, there is a distinct colour change when the mixed stuff comes out.

For 6mm screwed rod I would be drilling a 7 to 8mm hole.

Fantastic stuff.

[epsilonGreedy]

34 minutes ago, Roys said:

Also make sure the drilled hole has been dusted out, either by a resin bicycle type pump to blow the dust out of by a vacuum cleaner with a bit of 6mm tube

 

 

The dust free message was emphasized in a resin fixing video I watched, think they kept cleaning the hole with a purpose made dust blower and a small pipe cleaner brush. The cleaning cycle was repeated until no more was blown out.

 

38 minutes ago, Roys said:

when you start to use it the first 3 or 4 inches of resin  is not used as it won’t be mixed, there is a distinct colour change when the mixed stuff comes out.

 

 

Good to know, when looking at options on Screwfix I was not clear if all the products included the built-in mixing.

 

Ok time to start investigating resin guns, I was not aware there was a distinction.

[TonyT]

I use resin a lot, generally 6mm rod will be a 8mm hole, drilled out, dust blown out, damped if required/time allows/ instructions specify

resin gun spout  inserted into hole all the way in, and trigger pulled, pull out an inch and trigger pull continue until end of hole.

screwed rod, twisted into resin not pushed.

warmer the ambient temp the quicker it goes off.

 

As other say don’t use the first few dribbles of resin until it’s consistently mixed.

[epsilonGreedy]

5 hours ago, TonyT said:

As others say don’t use the first few dribbles of resin until it’s consistently mixed.

 

 

Once the mixing starts I assume that nozzle has a finite "pot time" but what about the remainder in the tube. If the mixing occurs within the tube then I assume these tubes are single use, else if the mixing occurs within the nozzle can I throw that away and use the remaining resin in the tube another day? 

[TonyT]

It’s going off and the resin will set in the nozzle, I use hilti hit and you get a few nozzles, and then get a collection after a few jobs!.

 

best bet is to drill them all out in one go, clean them all out and resin them all in one go, less wastage and more efficient 

[Roys]

2 hours ago, epsilonGreedy said:

 

Once the mixing starts I assume that nozzle has a finite "pot time" but what about the remainder in the tube. If the mixing occurs within the tube then I assume these tubes are single use, else if the mixing occurs within the nozzle can I throw that away and use the remaining resin in the tube another day? 

Yip, when you stop using it and so no more flowing through the nozzle, it will go rock hard in the nozzle in say about 5 to 20 mins depending on ambient, so as said above drill and clean all the holes first. You usually get a couple of nozzles when you by a tube. I used a tube yesterday that I had last used two weeks ago removed the old nozzle, fitted a new nozzle and away it went no probs.

Note, the mixing occurs in the nozzle, there is a spiral plastic form inside the nozzle that mixes the 2 part resin from the tube, so it doesn’t go off in the tube. The stuff in the tube will be knackered after a while but as I said I just reused one I opened a couple of weeks ago.

Edited March 3, 2021 by Roys
More info

[David H]

Build with A&E youtube channel did a good video on using resin for anchor bolts, let me dig it out..

HOW TO USE RESIN ANCHOR BOLTS: What you need to know! | Build with A&E - YouTube