crispy_wafer Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 So I've got plenty of time before the builder comes back later this year to shell and roof. Trouble is with all this time I'm finding out lots of tidbits of information from you guys that perhaps I'd have been better knowing before we started this journey. I'm slowly putting together a spec for the shell. It'd been decided to be brick and block, however I'm already starting to think again on this, and heading back to the drawing board. Changes I've made so far 175mm insulation on the B+B floor instead of the 100mm specified I'll be using fibolites instead of celcon lightweights, are 3.6n OK or are 7.2 the ones to use? Dritherm32 or similar instead of rigid PIR wall insulation as I wont be around the watch and monitor the builder at every step, The first course of blocks had been laid onto the B+B floor, but I've just discovered things like cold bridging at the wall to floor junction, so would knocking these out and putting down a course of thermoblocks be a wise idea? Builder wont be too happy, but there you go I guess. decisions made without knowledge and all that. I've also discovered this thing called a parge coat, or sealing the inner blockwork to help with airtightness. Then there will be dealing with attention to detail when the floor is laid and the roof construction. Internal room dividing stud walls? Now a question that's been going round my noggin, what should these sit on? Currently laid out with block or would marmox be a better idea. Also, as I know not alot about windows and glazing I'll pop up in that section soon as I've had a quote through and I couldn't tell if it's good bad or ok... Finally, Is waking up at 3am thinking about trivial stuff normal? Cheers folks this really is a great resource that helps with the unblurring of the lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 27 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said: Finally, Is waking up at 3am thinking about trivial stuff normal? Yes ????. I changed my mind/build lots during my two year fight with planners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 Forget the Parge coat It’s a waste of money for airtightness I use miles of the stuff for sound blocking If the dot and dab is done correctly air will never get through Using Parge will encourage the plasterers to be lax with sealing everything off Where a stud runs parallel to the floor joists nog under the floor every 600 Changes at this stage at this stage are good They don’t cost time or money Dont worry about the builder being upset He will get over Looks like a great project 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 4 hours ago, crispy_wafer said: I'll be using fibolites instead of celcon lightweights, are 3.6n OK or are 7.2 the ones to use? My preference would be dense concrete blocks at 20% cheaper. What was the reason for the lightweights? 4 hours ago, crispy_wafer said: 175mm insulation on the B+B floor instead of the 100mm specified Good. More if it'll fit! 4 hours ago, crispy_wafer said: Dritherm32 or similar instead of rigid PIR wall insulation as I wont be around the watch and monitor the builder at every step Good plan. Have you priced EPS blown beads as an alternative 4 hours ago, crispy_wafer said: The first course of blocks had been laid onto the B+B floor, but I've just discovered things like cold bridging at the wall to floor junction, so would knocking these out and putting down a course of thermoblocks be a wise idea? Builder wont be too happy, but there you go I guess. decisions made without knowledge and all that. It'll help for sure. Get him to cost it. Where does the bottom of your wall insulation stop? That steel is probably more of an issue mind you. 4 hours ago, crispy_wafer said: I've also discovered this thing called a parge coat, or sealing the inner blockwork to help with airtightness. Then there will be dealing with attention to detail when the floor is laid and the roof construction. My preference would be wet plaster internally. Although dot and dab can work it usually doesn't rate very well for airtightness. Nice solid walls too. 4 hours ago, crispy_wafer said: Internal room dividing stud walls? Now a question that's been going round my noggin, what should these sit on? Currently laid out with block or would marmox be a better idea. I'd get rid of the studs and build internal block walls. Better for sound and cheaper as far as i can remember. These can be built on the blocks that are there. 4 hours ago, crispy_wafer said: Also, as I know not alot about windows and glazing I'll pop up in that section soon as I've had a quote through and I couldn't tell if it's good bad or ok... Avoid anything that seals with a brush seal like bifolds or sash windows. They're really drafty. Triple glazing is a no brainer. Beyond that it's how much you want to spend. 4 hours ago, crispy_wafer said: Finally, Is waking up at 3am thinking about trivial stuff normal? Nope! That suggests you've been able to get to sleep in the first place! Have a look at this series of videos from the GreenBuildingStore. They're short and cover 99% of what you'll need to do to have a very comfortable house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy_wafer Posted February 13, 2021 Author Share Posted February 13, 2021 My preference would be dense concrete blocks at 20% cheaper. What was the reason for the lightweights? Probably me being a bit naive and not reading into real world experiences. And just going by what the technician suggested Good plan. Have you priced EPS blown beads as an alternative No, but blown beads were on my list to investigate, one thought I had was, was how can I be sure they get everywhere they need to. It'll help for sure. Get him to cost it. Where does the bottom of your wall insulation stop? That steel is probably more of an issue mind you. Good question, just looked and it is something that isnt detailed on my drawings. I'll need to double check where he's filled the cavity with lean mix to, but I think its to the level where it's covering the block and beam ends. So as it stands the insulation starts at the top of the block and beam. RE the steel, yes, good point, I'll have a mooch about and see how others have solved this. My preference would be wet plaster internally. Although dot and dab can work it usually doesn't rate very well for airtightness. Nice solid walls too. Yes, I like the idea of wet plaster, but I had also thought about battening out the internal walls and creating a service void, potentially insulated PB, not fully decided at this point. - Note if I was to do this again, I'd have put in a wider cavity... Again something I'd not even considered at the outset. I'd get rid of the studs and build internal block walls. Better for sound and cheaper as far as i can remember. These can be built on the blocks that are there. I don't have too many studs so yes this is something I could do. Avoid anything that seals with a brush seal like bifolds or sash windows. They're really drafty. Triple glazing is a no brainer. Beyond that it's how much you want to spend. hehe, no bifolds in this house, don't know why, totally irrational but I dislike them with a passion. Triple glazing, yes, they'd quoted me for double, but I will ask them to requote, especially for the floor to gable curtain as this could be an issue. Looking at some of the details they'd put on the quote, they are using a system from SF52 Curtain Wall - Senior Architectural Systems Nope! That suggests you've been able to get to sleep in the first place! ? Have a look at this series of videos from the GreenBuildingStore. They're short and cover 99% of what you'll need to do to have a very comfortable house. Thanks, certainly will do, I'll queue that up on the amazon box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olf Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 15 hours ago, crispy_wafer said: 175mm insulation on the B+B floor instead of the 100mm specified I'll be using fibolites instead of celcon lightweights, are 3.6n OK or are 7.2 the ones to use? Dritherm32 or similar instead of rigid PIR wall insulation as I wont be around the watch and monitor the builder at every step, I can see some influence here, but I'd do the same. As for the actual insulation thickness, more is better but why specifically 175mm ? Check cost vs benefit, it might be that 2x100 boards are only pennies more than 2x90 or 100+75 (and vice versa, maybe 160 will save you more upfront than you would be getting back slowly over the years) 15 hours ago, crispy_wafer said: The first course of blocks had been laid onto the B+B floor, but I've just discovered things like cold bridging at the wall to floor junction, so would knocking these out and putting down a course of thermoblocks be a wise idea? Builder wont be too happy, but there you go I guess. decisions made without knowledge and all that. Thermoblocks are in 65 mm or 100 mm flavours only, so you would have to cut the blocks anyway. If you're really commited and have too much time, grab a saw and trim the first course. Win-win: builder happy that not all knocked, you happy with improving the junction detail. Improving psi of all the junctions may bring you more benefit than improving U of the floor. 15 hours ago, crispy_wafer said: Finally, Is waking up at 3am thinking about trivial stuff normal? No, you must be relaxed. It was 2 am for me - planning drawings due to be sent on Monday and I've just had a genius idea to move some buildings around And then sort the rainwater collection. And ASHP unit location. And reroute connection to solar panels. And so on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy_wafer Posted February 13, 2021 Author Share Posted February 13, 2021 Parge coat - Noted. I will have a word when the blocks are going up, ask them nicely to point up and ensure the mortar fills the bits where it should maybe a cup of tea and a bit of cake will seal the deal.... 175mm as between myself and the builder we were discussing the finished floor height and how many blocks down before and above the b+b, then we were working backwards from the level AOD stipulated by the planners, 170mm or 160mm + 60mm or 70mm screed , so its a number that could well change a smidge depending on costs, and what bargains I can lay my hands on. Haha brings me on to screed, all the builders round this way all seem to use floscreed now, but to be different I quite fancy good old fashion sand/cement screed. MVHR location is now a consideration, admittedly I hadn't actually planned on one, but a bit of tweaking and a reduction of the downstairs shower/wc has created a bit of extra space in the utility for this. Pipe routes are now being worked out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 Why do you have blocks coming up on internal partitions are the load bearing? I prefer one flat slab. Don't discount a parge coat I used a sand cement slurry mix, took a day. Got a really good airtightness result, I suspect this is due to detailing where different materials meet, not sure how much the parge actually does but for such an easy DIY job it's no brainer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy_wafer Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 On 13/02/2021 at 15:20, Oz07 said: Why do you have blocks coming up on internal partitions are the load bearing? I prefer one flat slab. Don't discount a parge coat I used a sand cement slurry mix, took a day. Got a really good airtightness result, I suspect this is due to detailing where different materials meet, not sure how much the parge actually does but for such an easy DIY job it's no brainer. Blocks coming up on slab, on drawing they are specified as block walls, there's one a couple which are spec'd as stud walls, but blocking them gave me a feel for the location, and door positions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy_wafer Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 So yesterday, was a fairly productive day in terms of ticking things off the list. Bricks ordered - before price rise. Not that I've got much space to store them at the moment. I'll be extending the driveway infront of the build up to the front of the bungalow to create a little extra room. It's gonna get muddy when I get a machine in but needs must, it was something to do later in the year but I've had my arms twisted a bit. Building inspector is happy for me to connect to existing septic tank so that's a result. A wagon load of limestone chippings is now ready to be deposited under the block and beam floor... Water table and standing water round the trench blocks where little or no back fill, building inspectors recommendations so happy with that, the ventilation space will be maintained as I'm out the floor by a good way... I can handle a little damp, but a moat, no thanks! Quote back from roof truss and first floor pozi joist supplies, not bad i think, took a bit of toing and froing to get to where we wanted... on a 5100 span we started with 254*100 at 600mm centres... I'm no flooring technician but that sounded a bit bouncy to me, he explained the software spits out the most economical design. Eventually we have ended up at 304*122mm at 400mm centres, not quite double the price, but close. To sanity check its 12*5200 and 5*5100 + ancillary items for 1980 + vat , I'll look a bit further afield to see how the quote stacks up. And heres a link to the timelapse from the day it all started. Rose Maroan, New Build - Day1 - YouTube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 Does that include deck? Which kind? Presumably can drop to 18mm on 400 c/c 304mm works better for guage on traditional build when beam filling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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