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24VDC  Transformer

canalsiderenovation

By canalsiderenovation
in Electrics - Other

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TonyT Advanced Member

TonyT

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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Din-Rail-Power-Supply-MeanWell-NDR-120-24/dp/B07BFCCPVB/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?adgrpid=53928596875&dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5-TvwK267gIVDLTtCh30owr2EAAYAiAAEgJ2EvD_BwE&hvadid=259150435849&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9046870&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17678314962473593575&hvtargid=kwd-298956512635&hydadcr=16905_1776277&keywords=24v+dc+power+supply&qid=1611690109&sr=8-9&tag=hydrukspg-21You 

 

so the drawing says 24vdc 1.3 amp.

 

so any 24vdc transformer with a higher rating of 1.3amp. Will work.

 

you could get cheaper that comes with a plug like a laptop plug, cut the end off, and connect up, but you would need a multimeter to prove polarity.

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canalsiderenovation Advanced Member

canalsiderenovation

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8 minutes ago, TonyT said:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SHNITPWR-Converter-Transformer-100-240V-5-5x2-5mm/dp/B08BJRMQHZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=24+Volt+DC+Power+Supply&qid=1611698388&quartzVehicle=138-266&replacementKeywords=24+dc+power+supply&sr=8-9
 

or something that just plugs in to the mains socket?

 

Blew my brain a bit.... ?

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Onoff Advanced Member

Onoff

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2 hours ago, canalsiderenovation said:

Thanks both. Ordered the cheaper version. Thanks for the offer of DIN rail. We have some thanks. Not quite sure where it is going yet nor how we are going to disguise it. 

 

 @Onoff

 

Huh? You mean it's not going in a control cabinet of some sort with wires running to the sensor? A photo of the area might assist with any adjacent plug socket etc. 

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Onoff Advanced Member

Onoff

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8 hours ago, canalsiderenovation said:

 

Blew my brain a bit.... ?

 

What Tony's getting at is with the plug in type, you would potentially take the plug-in adapter and cut the plug off on the right hand side. (Whilst it's unplugged!)

 

IMG_20210127_061516.jpg.f95faf57a1a6835a550b618975cf1174.jpg

 

You would then pare back the end of the black cable by stripping it and exposing the two inner cores. With a test meter you'd next identify the polarity as in which wire is + and which -. Suitably make off the ends by say tinning with solder or putting on some ferrules (neither strictly necessary but good practice). You'd then need to connect to your sensor unit and plug in / switch on. Of course you'd need to hide the cable. That could be in surface trunking at it's simplest/ugliest.

 

Any decent cavities adjacent to the area that you could get power to? Up in the ceiling and down etc?

 

It's all in the planning...or not! ?

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canalsiderenovation Advanced Member

canalsiderenovation

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2 hours ago, Onoff said:

It's all in the planning...or not! ?

 

I know! Frustratingly we have been going on about this ever since the door got put in and saying about the fingerprint sensor and location and we are a bit pi**ed off it wasn't done at the stage it could have been hidden in a cavity. 

 

Just want to get the thing working, get the house completed in that the snags and the building work is done and when lockdown is over get my uncle who is an electrician but not local to come and sort a couple of post work issues out which may include hacking into walls. They aren't properly decorated as we just had it cheaply sprayed white and no woodwork has been painted yet so we need to gradually work through each room when money permits.....

 

An example of one of our oops issues being going to wall mount a TV in a guest room so having high socket to find it actually would be better on a cabinet so we need a low socket. I did tell the other half this so I'm not taking the blame for this one.

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Onoff Advanced Member

Onoff

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It is probably not want you want at all but you can get access panels like this:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/manthorpe-access-panel-white-243-x-193-x-16mm/20924?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Manthorpe-GL100-Plastic-Access-Inspection/dp/B00TYNQTPY/ref=sr_1_2?

 

This type is "decoratable":

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Secret-Access-Panel-Door-300mm/dp/B00I9ZSDFW

 

None are really invisible per se.  Maybe make a feature of it, cover with a picture of your dogs etc! ?

 

You could.....maybe mount a 2 gang faceplate, spray painted black or whatever next to the lock as access to the cavity. Just cut the back out of a dry lining box. Whatever, the connections to that psu need to be secure and it needs to remain accessible.

 

 

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TonyT Advanced Member

TonyT

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Do you have a cupboard near the front door?

 

is there a control box or is everything integral to the finger print/intercom external unit?

 

what kind of locking mechanism are you using? Something in the door or in the frame?

 

if you let us know a make/model I’m sure we can offer some more advice to make it easier for you.

 

 

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canalsiderenovation Advanced Member

canalsiderenovation

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Thanks both.

 

It's an Internorm front door with fingerprint sensor.  I've had contact with a very helpful guy in Austria at Internorm who sent through lots of info and we have the manuals ready to set it all up.

 

Some info they sent. I believe everything is in the frame itself as this is where all the wires were.

 

I also think we don't have studded walls rather it is blocks (other side is a bathroom). No cupboard etc. There is a fuse button so think this is for the front door. The little screen is a thermostat.

 

IMG_20210127_091353.thumb.jpg.4be36849a17c3d0e9f7aa99cb9e797e5.jpg

 

 

4_1_5_Electrical connection plans - ENGLISH.pdf

 

Screenshot_2021-01-27-09-03-07-678_com.google.android_apps.photos.thumb.jpg.0a4986f84f852deaac30ef19f03a183a.jpg

 

Also see file attached.

 

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TonyT Advanced Member

TonyT

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Do you have a conduit in the door frame to take the cable away?

 

Transformer has to be within 8 metres max of door cabling.

 

What happens when power fails does it lock secure? Any plans to fit a UPS?

 

Is it just a split handle, so that from the secure side the door opens on the handle, with no push to exit button required?

 

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canalsiderenovation Advanced Member

canalsiderenovation

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2 minutes ago, TonyT said:

Do you have a conduit in the door frame to take the cable away?

 

Transformer has to be within 8 metres max of door cabling.

 

What happens when power fails does it lock secure? Any plans to fit a UPS?

 

Is it just a split handle, so that from the secure side the door opens on the handle, with no push to exit button required?

 

 

Yep we have a manual lock as well with key. It may be we just get one of those box things @Onoff suggested. Not idea but solves a problem.

 

IMG_20210127_092443.thumb.jpg.b17d91d3ea07aa66b2def9c7eee9ac46.jpg

 

IMG_20210127_092504.thumb.jpg.1467d4c5ef390c74638a2f43c9320cc4.jpg

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trialuser Member

trialuser

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I've got an electric lock with a keypad on one of my sheds (because it was very cheap on ebay)

I used something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DANTECH-DA376-PSU-24V-4-X-1A-OUTPUTS-POWER-SUPPLY/174512171271?hash=item28a1bc6907:g:VQ0AAOSwkYpfqbMj

Which contains a backup battery, commonly used in fire and alarm systems (mine is 12v but I'm fairly sure the 24 v ones just use two batteries)

That way you are still working in a power cut especially which is useful regardless of the door power failing locked or unlocked.

I also tap into mine to power other 12v bits like the weather station on the roof.

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Onoff Advanced Member

Onoff

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6 minutes ago, canalsiderenovation said:

Yep we have a manual lock as well with key. It may be we just get one of those box things @Onoff suggested. Not idea but solves a problem.

 

Not a box as such, they are just covers/edging with a door that frames an opening into a cavity. Something like this. You'll still need a bracket or stud in there to mount your DIN rail, then your psu etc. Needs to be kept clear of insulation too:

 

 

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canalsiderenovation Advanced Member

canalsiderenovation

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50 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Not a box as such, they are just covers/edging with a door that frames an opening into a cavity. Something like this. You'll still need a bracket or stud in there to mount your DIN rail, then your psu etc. Needs to be kept clear of insulation too:

 

 

 

Thanks it's actually a stud wall I believe so this could work well.

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TonyT Advanced Member

TonyT

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So imagine your plasterboard wall.

with the plasterboard access hatch

You could glue a double surface pattress to the rear of the plasterboard to make all the extra low voltage connections nice and safe, you could fix a switched spur for local isolation and fusing down for the mains power  and then connect up the power transformer to this.

 

this could keep everything tidy and reasonably managed to make it easy to maintain.

 

 

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