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Oil Boiler Locking Out


Onoff

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27 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

But tight pumps tend to gall and seize in a non recoverable manner...

 

Years ago I seem to remember having a sticky pump. It was something to do with a worn "key" on the pump. I replaced the pump though I think the (tiny) keys are in fact available separately.

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  • 2 months later...
On 06/12/2020 at 08:34, dpmiller said:

cupful of ash-free 2-stroke oil if you must, or a gallon of diesel. But tight pumps tend to gall and seize in a non recoverable manner...

 

No, I'd be happy it was the cap tbh although the filter is worth a change.

 

/ you can see efficiency improvements by installing a Tigerloop, havng a constant head of pre-warmed de-aerated oil *does* work.

 

Evening, a lock out just now. Changed the filter I said I was going to do in November, it was minging! 

 

All firing up again but I was wondering about the adding some lubricating oil trick. You say "ash free" 2 stroke, and "a cupful". Say 500ml? Do I just sling this in the tank or mix with some heating oil first? Down to about 700L/160gal.

 

This any good? (Bought for the Puch Maxi that came with the house...another project! ?).

 

IMG_20210208_213823195.thumb.jpg.63936bab01a2b28e7c523b01e3e758bd.jpg

 

IMG_20210208_213941107.thumb.jpg.e89d8c915e2bb7113b11c4517b02e06b.jpg

 

Cheers

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52 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

that'll do. Lash it in with plenty of splashing, it'll mix OK

 

It's in after clearing the snow & unfreezing the padlock on the tank!

 

Out of interest why is a "capful of 2-stroke or a gallon of diesel" better than "engine oil"?

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both diesel and 2T are designed to be burned and do so with as little residue as possible. 2T is formulated to disperse in the base to lubricate, diesel's additives protect sensitive injection equipment at speeds and loads far in excess of your burner's capabilities.

Engine oil, unless it's one of the latest formulations for cars with Particle filters creates a fair bit of metallic ash when burnt...

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22 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

both diesel and 2T are designed to be burned and do so with as little residue as possible. 2T is formulated to disperse in the base to lubricate, diesel's additives protect sensitive injection equipment at speeds and loads far in excess of your burner's capabilities.

Engine oil, unless it's one of the latest formulations for cars with Particle filters creates a fair bit of metallic ash when burnt...

 

Ta. Do you reckon it's worth having a spare pump sitting in a drawer ready to go? I did replace this one years ago but that long I can't remember exactly why/what. Something to do with it sticking and a small Woodruff type key maybe but it's all a bit vague!

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Pump maybe? Another lock out tonight. Took a sharp rap on the pump with a screwdriver seemingly to get it to go and fire up.

 

IMG_20210211_180856905.thumb.jpg.51b9acb641a4fffbde4e74e39ff14aa0.jpg

 

So gummed up or worn?

 

(Took the time to swap out the fridge cap for a proper Riello spare one whilst I had the lid off). 

 

Not sure on the pump part number I need...

 

IMG_20210211_181135470.thumb.jpg.faf1e3454826020e346bd5eeb8b1bcbb.jpg

 

IMG_20210211_184712.thumb.jpg.a7656b40d7a0c7800c0dc8c103d5aa8b.jpg

 

IMG_20210211_181150371.thumb.jpg.4f9d1439ae02e4598e57c3a668aa3456.jpg

 

IMG_20210211_181201047.thumb.jpg.34f557b085ec3e3aee519d20e76c0d38.jpg

 

So RDB burner. Not sure on the RDB2 significance on the plate? This is from the manual we have for the boiler:

 

IMG_20210211_185203240.thumb.jpg.c26db0968e008c5afacef9b8935035e2.jpg

 

IMG_20210211_185221365.thumb.jpg.95b004163abfba0f749d140c9633fd86.jpg

 

So "3008654"?

 

Pretty sure the local Plumb Centre will do it. 

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1 hour ago, dpmiller said:

"a pump for RDB2 please" from your local knowledgeable wholesaler...

 

Still no guarantee it's the pump, could be the solenoid going O/C and I don't think the pumps come with a new coil?

 

Picking a pump up later, new for £75. Local, friendly oil/AGA specialist.

 

Yep, I know it might not fix it. I'll keep going and it'll be like Trigger's Broom!

 

There's a couple of scrapped ones over the farm, I might go and grab the solenoids if they're still any good.

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9 hours ago, dpmiller said:

/hate Riello, sorry...

 

Picked up a new pump from the nice man. He did say it gets to the point when he'll usually just change the burner. He did say the pump is factory set but sometimes needs a tweak and did I have a pressure gauge. I haven't but I guess one of these?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Warmflow-Low-Pressure-Gauge-3019/262248801171?epid=13020305216&hash=item3d0f3f2393:g:Lt4AAOSwuYVWnh~k

 

Said he charges £75 for a service...were not there yet! ?

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they do a kit with various fittings too or you can bodge one but a glycerine filled gauge is better, yes. Danfoss pumps are 1/8"BSP yes but I've no idea what the Riello is- the pressure gauge screws into the hole at the top of the long hex extension IIRC?

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11 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

they do a kit with various fittings too or you can bodge one but a glycerine filled gauge is better, yes. Danfoss pumps are 1/8"BSP yes but I've no idea what the Riello is- the pressure gauge screws into the hole at the top of the long hex extension IIRC?

 

Yep, off of 3 below:

 

IMG_20210212_173438025.thumb.jpg.5494e7661c28143ab1b2576ab399a9f1.jpg

 

I'll have to look at the old jet to see what size I have. From that I can tell the pressure from the table in the book.

 

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Lock out last night and it wouldn't reset. Plan this morning is to take the pump off initially and have a look. I've got the new pump but have no way of setting the pressure to the 8 bar required. 

 

I've ordered one of these gauges from BES in the link above:

 

oil-pressure-gauge_min_18582_P_1.jpg.657661a425fd37587baf82f2b4ad2ecb.jpg

 

The bumpf says it's a bottom entry thread, 1/8" BSP. I'm hoping that applies to the male bit sticking out on the brass adaptor in the picture above.

 

In the Warmflow handbook, the long 80mm ish, hex connector (part No.3008876) is referred to as "Pressure Gauge". In reality it's where the pressure gauge attaches. Photos below taken from random eBay listings for this part. It looks like the grub screw where the pump attaches might be 1/8" BSP. Vernier at the ready for when I take it off. I may need an adapter I guess. 

 

757899398_s-l400(1).jpg.cb3923dcb51d2da4ecc0da146e9bc03c.jpg

 

s-l400.jpg.059347f2fc57b9bdb422d4c7cf52e7e5.jpg

 

Speaking with BiL and he reckons the bearings in RDB burners can dry out but are easy enough to change.  Suggested I remove the pump then spin the fan by hand to feel if it runs smooth. On refitting the pump he suggested I lubricate the pump shaft with oil to try and get some in the bearings. If it's dry bearings maybe that'll help and I can refit the old one until I get the gauge.

 

I'm 2 cups of coffee, 2 toast and 2 paracetamol down. Just waiting for the pills to kick in before I start. Then it's off to the garage to get some lubricating oil. I've a 3kW fan heater running in the lounge and a panel heater taking the chill off in the boiler room. 

 

?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I'd expect a dry bearing to squeal like a pig as it nipped up.

 

Does that boiler have a sight glass, or can you run it with the baffles out for a minute? You can do a rough pressure set by flame size-  as big as possible without actually touching the back wall...

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Some dry, powdery rust in there, quite a bit in fact.

 

No squealing when it runs. I've had the fan cover off and it turns as smooth as. Ditto if I stick my finger down where the pump engages. 

 

IMG_20210214_082310083.thumb.jpg.53ba237c6604b5a596b976e7fe0a6484.jpg

 

IMG_20210214_082336704.thumb.jpg.8d3d92e5fb2a96d747d64e2612104fd0.jpg

 

IMG_20210214_082958188.thumb.jpg.8b437612becc0ee3d2b76fe65bf5d68e.jpg

 

The pump mind was as stiff as to turn!

 

IMG_20210214_083603394.thumb.jpg.90edf41e345ce4ba04496111dcaf503e.jpg

 

I've brushed all the crap out, flushed the burner recess and pump bearing  out with penetrating oil, then stood the pump on end and filled the bearing with oil. Pump seems to turn pretty freely now. Hopefully this'll give me a bit of a reprieve.

 

IMG_20210214_084837847.thumb.jpg.0699a6262a897599d510a9ddbcd5efaa.jpg

 

Fingers crossed.

 

Coffee time while that oil soaks in. Why is it there's never a biscuit when I want one?

Edited by Onoff
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Just now, dpmiller said:

that's a LOT of rust.

 

Pumps generally are stiff to turn as they have springs inside preloading bits. plus oil isn't compressible...

 

Been here 20 years and I changed the pump once in that time. Can't remember when. Going to put back together in a mo. Will report back. 

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