SimonD Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 The designs for our project were for basic stud walls between some rooms on the ground floor. I've got suspended timber floors. I've got a couple of thousand bricks left over from demolition and thought that filling a couple of these partitions wall with masonry could be a useful acoustic solution as they'll be for bedrooms next to the utility room. The walls I'm thinking of filling sit exactly over sleeper walls which have sufficient foundations to deal with the load. The buildup is foundations, sleeper wall, dpc, 75 x 100 treated timber, floors joists filled with insulation, osb3 subfloor, partition stud wall. Any suggestion about how best to go about this? Is is feasible to simply build up this brick infill from the partition wall sole plate, or do I need to consider a different approach? Neither of these walls are load bearing. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 Sell the bricks and buy some acoustic insulation. You can’t just dry stack half a ton of masonry inside a plasterboard wall, it will end in tears. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonD Posted November 17, 2020 Author Share Posted November 17, 2020 4 hours ago, PeterW said: You can’t just dry stack half a ton of masonry inside a plasterboard wall, it will end in tears. Not exactly what I'd planned... I was actually going to build a proper wall using mortar. Perhaps building the wall up from the sleeper wall. A solid wall is going to outperform the acoustic insulation, will it not? I've seen this done in other places where the stud wall had been load bearing and wall bricked up within the studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceverge Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 If they're not putting any lateral pressure on the stud I can't see the problem. I imagine that if you leave gaps you willing not improve the sound attenuation much. I have heard of filling studs with a tamped hemp/earth mix to reduce sound transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonD Posted November 18, 2020 Author Share Posted November 18, 2020 10 hours ago, Iceverge said: If they're not putting any lateral pressure on the stud I can't see the problem. I imagine that if you leave gaps you willing not improve the sound attenuation much. I have heard of filling studs with a tamped hemp/earth mix to reduce sound transmission. Thanks, yes sealing it all up to enusre there are no gaps will certainly be key here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 Nope, silly idea, if you want a brick wall build one. Acoustic insulation easy and cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonD Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 On 18/11/2020 at 07:54, Russell griffiths said: Nope, silly idea, if you want a brick wall build one. Acoustic insulation easy and cheaper. It may be in your opinion, but I don't think it's a silly idea at all. It would be silly not to play with the options and check them out, but ideas, just like questions, are never silly in themselves? You may well be right that a stud wall with acoustic insulation is easier, but it won't be cheaper given I've got all the existing materials I need for free and it may also not suit the outcome I'm looking for; to do it properly will take a lot of space from what is already a tight galley area. Whatever I do it with this will have to be an infill wall because it all sits within a steel frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Often see this in old timber framed houses. The bricks will need to be easy to clean - so previously laid in a lime mortar. If they are clean, they may be worth a bit second hand. The sole plates will need a decent bearing. You could add a long screw or nail into a stud every 6 courses to tie it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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