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Ceiling cracks


MJNewton

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A few months back I had our new open plan extension skimmed and following the mist coat noticed some slight cracking along a couple of joints in the ceiling. I didn't think too much of them at the time and just filled them prior to the final top coats of paint. Today I noticed they're back, here's one (well, two - there's a less visible small one coming from the corner):

 

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The cracks have come back *exactly* as they were when first spotted and the main one happens to be on a joint line which I am assuming is the issue. In particular, I carried the resilient bars through to the extension from the main room and I did notice that board joints aren't nearly as well supported when butted up over a resilient bar as they are on a joist. I wish I'd put some timber behind these particular joints to keep them firmly anchored together but that ship has sailed. I am pretty sure the plasterer taped all the joins - I saw it in loads of other places and surely if he'd missed one out he'd spot it when going around?

 

For context of zoomed out location showing its location:

 

20200927_133452.thumb.jpg.00274f812001f229a5468e2ebfd7d0bc.jpg

 

As you can probably make out the extension roof is mostly lantern opening and so there's likely not all that much rigidity in the whole structure and I am assuming this leads to ever so slight movement. I do hear the odd creak every so often e.g. when the sun is blazing and warming things up, and I am assuming this is normally.

 

The crack is only really visible from one part of the room... this being where the sofa's going to be going for watching TV... Grrr.

 

Any ideas how to deal with this? The movement will presumably continue (the extension was built around 18 months ago so if it's still moving around now it surely always will) and so I'm thinking something flexible is required? I don't need to necessarily get rid of the crack entirely - I just want it less of a blot on what is otherwise a perfectly pristine white room. I'm gutted really, and whilst I recognise I'm learning as I go along this extension is probably going to be my last so I'll be stuck with it for a while!

 

I've Googled for advice and found loads - too much really. I'm hoping someone here might be able to say 'X will sort that no problem'...

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You need to make them deeper 

Press The crack in with a paint scraper forming a V 

Its also worth putting a few extra screws in along the effected joint

Then fill Sand Fill again and sand 

If the crack reappears you will have to put another fibre tape on fill it twice with easy fill and feather the edges 

The first Usually works 

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Thanks Nod.  I did think (fear) it might be a case of having to make it worse before it can get better! 

 

How deep do I need to be making the V? Through to the plaster? Tape? Board? I suppose if one of the latter two I'd discover whether there's any tape or not). Is the V so that there's enough body and surface area for the filler to attach? Any particular filler you'd recommend? 

 

I did think of calling the plasterer, for advice rather than blame/remedy. He was a nice bloke so he might even pop round to take a look.. and maybe even sort it (I'd be more than happy to pay if need be). 

 

Incidentally, it's a really unforgiving ceiling for blemishes - full width sliding doors at one end and quite  large room with the entrance at the other. I swear even dust would cast a shadow... 

Edited by MJNewton
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There will be tape there 

Don’t go to deep that you rip the tape 

A good quality Flexible filler is fine 

If it does become a problem Get your plasterer to tape it on his way home Ten minutes Cup of year Then five minutes feathering it out and you can sand it the following day 

There should be hardly any need for sanding 
 

Itts unusual for a long bound edge joint to crack It would be worth putting a line of screws either side of the crack 

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2 hours ago, Pete said:

I have used the Tesa crack tape and it is very good. It is really thin and allows movement underneath it. It is then just filled as normal but does need as much depth of filler as the tape is very thin

 

Interesting thanks. Will see what the plasterer says / can do but good to know there might be backup options if a 'conventional' fix doesn't work out.

Edited by MJNewton
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4 hours ago, MikeGrahamT21 said:

If you paid a plasterer to do the original job, then it should be well in the remit to have them back to sort this bit out.


plus if you do anything he may not want to sort “his” snagging problem out.

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  • 4 months later...
On 27/09/2020 at 19:05, nod said:

A good quality Flexible filler is fine

 

I never did get round to sorting these cracks out but I've got interested in them again as last week I noticed they were much more visible ('blacker') and assumed they'd got worse... Today however they're practically invisible. The difference I'm sure is down to the -5C of last week and +9C today.

 

If there's temperature-related expansion/contraction going on (noting it's a timber flat roof with a large opening so plenty of potential for movement) then hard filler/plaster is likely to be unsuccessful. @nodyou mentioned 'good quality flexible filler' - is there anything in paeticular you had in mind? It's a minefield out there with too many choices... 

 

Edit: I'm not necessarily after 'invisible', there's just something about a black crack that kind of says 'falling down' to me; they just seem particularly unsightly against an otherwise perfectly smooth and bright white ceiling and whilst you can't see it from all angles the sofa just happens to be the prime viewing location... 

Edited by MJNewton
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Okay thanks. Just to confirm, this stuff?  I notice it mentions static cracks and doesn't specifically mention flexible which seems necessary in this instance if it's going to keep moving with the seasons? 

 

Point noted about opening the crack up. When you said it previously my heart sank as I knew it'd feel wrong when it comes to doing it but deep down I'd know (or at least hope!) it's right. 

Edited by MJNewton
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4 minutes ago, MJNewton said:

Okay thanks. Just to confirm, this stuff?  I noticed it doesn't specifically mention flexible which seems necessary in this instance if it's going to keep moving with the seasons? 

 

Point noted about opening the crack up. When you said it previously my heart sank as I knew it'd feel wrong when it comes to doing it but deep down I'd know (or at least hope!) it's right. 

It is 

 

When we go into houses  and buildings for the six months snagging We tell the owner to look away I normally use a needle file 

Just gently run it along the crack 

27E7FC74-2086-4FAB-9D82-80C9CE7AA28D.png

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