Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

In the case of cheap, paper honeycomb doors, the face material is often MDF just a few mm thick. Internal construction is something like this:

 

20200924_143654.jpg.3d987647833bc39b8cab9f3eee347d3e.jpg

Wanting to put some decent coat hooks in, without them pulling out (or compressing the door) I'm trying figure a way of strengthening this area:

 

20200924_143717.thumb.jpg.89e28f506105d329bce9b7b8418ffd8c.jpg

 

Half a thought to Starrett a round hole all the way through and glue in a round of softwood the same thickness as the door. 

 

Any ideas?

 

There's always those hook over coat racks I suppose.

Posted

Back of bathroom door with a couple of bathrobes on it. No prizes for style but 4 years and solid. Geometry of the hook doesn’t do funky things to the door.

 

Think I used an advanced plug in there (Rawl4All ?), probably a squirt of grab adhesive in the hole and then plenty on the back of the hook to stick to the door when screwed on. FWIW, it was the brown grab stuff not the white everbuild instant nails stuff I normally use.

90052970-FDA4-4587-8687-B10EDDACAC4B.jpeg

Posted (edited)

Can you glue a piece of wood on, and screw into that?

 

Or get one of the Wilko coathook blocks (about £10) and glue that on?

 

I have about 5 of those, and it still is not enough ?.

 

Ferdinand

 

Edited by Ferdinand
Posted

Thinking maybe something like this with toggle type fixings? Maybe sand the gloss off where it sits and also stick with a smidge of something...

 

51777.thumb.jpg.e8151b9bf9094cdff20dc6be8eb61264.jpg

Posted

CNC a slot into the top of the door, 27.49mm by 43.16mm, then insert a long piece of timber 377.45mm long with a 0.75 degree chamfer on all sides ... Then screw the fixing into the timber behind the facing .... 

Posted
1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Thinking maybe something like this with toggle type fixings? Maybe sand the gloss off where it sits and also stick with a smidge of something...

 

 

 

My issue with toggles in this application is that the holes you need are massive in relation to the screw  and you might not have enough space for the toggle in the hollow section due to the paper honeycomb. 

Posted
11 minutes ago, PeterStarck said:

Gripits?

 

Ta. Not seen them before. Minimum substrate thickness though is 12.5mm i.e designed for plaster board.

Posted
26 minutes ago, PeterW said:

CNC a slot into the top of the door, 27.49mm by 43.16mm, then insert a long piece of timber 377.45mm long with a 0.75 degree chamfer on all sides ... Then screw the fixing into the timber behind the facing .... 

 

You joke but I was seriously considering routing out that thin piece of timber they edge the top of the door with and dropping in a block of timber.

 

 

Posted

We had cheap £20 doors in our last house and had hooks on bathroom and bedroom doors, albeit for dressing gowns but in fairness ended up with coats on them in the bedrooms. They were from Ikea and had no issues and were in for over 10 years and still there when we sold the house.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...