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Steels - tips on fitting.


MarkH

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I've got two 6m steel I-beams to serve as the lintel above a sliding glass door, one to support a mezzanine and one more to serve as the ridge beam in part of our build. We're rust-proofing at the mo and I've got to weld some roof timber related stuff on the mezzanine beam but after that they'll be going onto the walls. We have substantial walls - 215mm dense concrete block laid on flat - so no padstones required.

 

I've a couple of things I'd appreciate advice on though:

 

Is it usual to just sit beams on blocks or should I put a slip-plane of some kind (like some dpc) between the steel and the block?

 

On similar lines I've got about six courses of blocks to lay on top of the window lintel-beams - again, slip-plane required? DPC?

 

Thanks anyone who can point me at the right way!

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Check your SE hasn't specified bolts to retain the ends of the steels. If they have it helps to have one end of the steel with slightly longer slots to allow for alignment when installing - heavy duty glue insert studs and nuts are your friend here rather than rawlbolts. Drill, insert the glue and stud and then only finish tightening when the glue has set. 

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22 hours ago, MarkH said:

I've got two 6m steel I-beams to serve as the lintel above a sliding glass door, one to support a mezzanine and one more to serve as the ridge beam in part of our build. We're rust-proofing at the mo and I've got to weld some roof timber related stuff on the mezzanine beam but after that they'll be going onto the walls. We have substantial walls - 215mm dense concrete block laid on flat - so no padstones required.

 

I've a couple of things I'd appreciate advice on though:

 

Is it usual to just sit beams on blocks or should I put a slip-plane of some kind (like some dpc) between the steel and the block?

 

On similar lines I've got about six courses of blocks to lay on top of the window lintel-beams - again, slip-plane required? DPC? Ive just taken delivery of eight 10 mil steels We sent them o in the grand scheme ff to be hot dipped galvanised Not that expensive 

in the grand scheme of things No chance of ever rusting

Ive just put two steels in the garages We already had these so we painted two coats of galvanised paint Already showing signs of rust

Thanks anyone who can point me at the right way!

 

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52 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

Are you sure you don't need pad stones???

 

S.E. didn't think so. Our walls are dense block on flat so there's a fair bearing surface there.

 

23 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

the more i think about it. don't use slate just because you can, slate is more of a thing you can "resort to" in the right scenario.

steel fabricators will have a drum of shims in their yard if you are far enough out to need them just ask them for a few 

 

I've got a bit of steel plate knocking about, I guess using that would make sense. 

 

I'm not anticipating much shimming: the guy who did the block-work for us is old school - mm accurate. Or rather 1/32" accurate.

 

Thanks fellas!

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  • 4 weeks later...

I-Beams in, no drama. It was a lot of fun.

 

We hired a telehandler with a 10m arm. I went to our local hire place and asked if they had "a thing for lifting stuff over a five meter wide house". The guy took us round to the yard, jumped in the machine and extended the arm, I said "that'll do" and next morning they left the beast at the end of our lane. I like that in the age of the hi-vis vest you can hire a large machine like that without going on a course or having a certificate, or wearing a hi-vis vest. 

 

 

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