New foul water IC

[Russdl]

Quick panic question. I'm about to start digging a hole to put a new IC in to connect to the existing foul water pipe on my plot. Are there any rules on how close to the boundary on my side that the new IC has to be? 

[ToughButterCup]

I haven't read any ....

There are two ways of reading your post : you're too close to the boundary for comfort, or is  there a maximum distance for the I/C from the boundary ?

 

 

[PeterW]

Don't understand the  question..?

 

There will be a demarcation chamber somewhere between you and the main sewer - usually 2-3m from the line - and I'm guessing you are connecting the existing house side of that..?

[Russdl]

Soz, panic question so gibberish came out. 

 

Yellow is the main drain in the track. Herras fence is our boundary. Red X marks where I want to put the new IC. Existing IC on the site is way to the left of the red X and too far away to be practical. 

 

New IC would be 1.5 to 2m from the boundary. 

[Oz07]

No crack on

[Russdl]

@Oz07 excellent. Thanks for your help. 

[ToughButterCup]

Perfik. At least you haven't got 30 meters to dig through by hand eh? ?

[Russdl]

@AnonymousBosch you need to get yourself a grave digger, worth their weight in gold, sadly in these trying times he keeps getting called away for his primary function. 

 

I dug (well he dug) a hole and found the drain going downhill steeply, which is good, it’s given me a bit more fall to play with. I calculated that I had about 25mm to spare over about 30m. I’ve now got an extra 230mm or so. We found the clay pipe and a connection which to my mind is great so my plan will be to remove the join and the pipe to the left of the join put in a 45, then the IC then another 45 and head to the house. One thing though, the existing drain doesn’t leave the plot perpendicular to the boundary and I’ll actually need a 45 and a 15 bend prior to the IC then a 45 the other side of the IC to get perpendicular to the boundary/house wall for the remainder of the drain run. That means my drain will turn through 105 degrees at that new IC to get in to the existing drain. Will there be a problem with that?

 

 

[PeterW]

I'm lost... can you draw a quick picture..??

 

Flow is left to right..?? And the bit on the left can go..?? In relation to your foot, where does the house pipe come from..??

 

If that is the final connection then I'd even consider a concrete section manhole as it doesn't look that deep and if its in the driveway then it may be neater.

[Russdl]

17 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

I'm lost...

 

 

? I’ve done it again and I’m not panicking anymore!

 

its in the garden, the top of the pipe in the picture is 900+mm below ground level. 

 

The flow from the house would hit my left heel and exiting stage right in the existing clay pipe. 

 

Thanks for bearing with me. 

[ToughButterCup]

?

[PeterW]

If it was me.... long swept clay bend out of the IC, and then virtually straight into the IC

[Russdl]

@PeterW just so I’m clear on that. Long swept clay bend from the existing clay pipe to the new IC turning through 90 degrees I presume? Something like the below?

 

What about the extra 15 degrees I need to get it pointing towards the house?

Edited May 19, 2020 by Russdl

[PeterW]

How long is the run from the house..? You may find just having an adjustable IC or even the give in the pipes would work.

 

Could also be cunning and  do the direction change inside the manhole - This sort of thing would do it https://www.drainagecentral.co.uk/110mm-Channel-Drain-Pipe-Bend-90-Degrees-Plain-Ended-B2531

 

Would mean you got the manhole, rodding and direction change all in one place.

 

 

[Russdl]

@PeterW it’s about 24m from that hole to the corner of the house and then about 5m round the corner to pick up the pipes coming out of the house. I suspect the give in the pipes would do it?

 

 

[Russdl]

 @PeterW’s link above went to a gravel covered long radius bend. Now I know I’m very new to this game but I trawl the internet (for all the right reasons) and read all sorts of guff but I’ve never seen or heard of a gravel covered pipe. Are these useful? What’s wrong with a good old smooth, impossible to grip pipe? 
 

 

[JFDIY]

Think you build a brick chamber around it then cut the top out. Gravel is presumably to key into the base and benching.

[Russdl]

@JFDIY Ah, of course, now I think I fully understand Peters post. Thank you ? 

[Russdl]

I’m at the house end of the drain run now and I’ve connected the 3 soil pipes to to a new IC. Could someone cast there eye over my attempts and critique the work so far?

 

Should I have a rocker pipe on the central drain run? It’s about 2.3m from a connector to the IC - nothing is fixed yet.

 

Ta. 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 22, 2020 by Russdl

[Oz07]

I'd maybe change the couplers for flex bands where coming out thru wall. Bit more leway with any future ground movement. Sure the couplers will work fine if you don't want to though

[Russdl]

@Oz07 thanks for the advice, I’ll take a look at that those flex bands that I’d never heard of until about 2 minutes ago ?

[PeterW]

Which way does the flow go..???  

[Russdl]

@PeterW bottom of the picture to the top.

 

The 3 soil pipes are the stubs left by MBC and extend 1m beyond the raft foundation. From the IC in the picture it will continue (up) to the corner of the building, hang a left and head to the IC that was the subject of the initial panic post. 

[Oz07]

If it's raft don't worry about the band seals

[Russdl]

@Oz07 it is a raft so I’ll give the flex bands miss in that case, thanks for updating your advice.