Jump to content

Plasterboard layout


wozza

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

 

I am about to fit the plasterboard to my ceilings.

 

Most of what I have seen online shows or instructs you to fit the boards perpendicularly across the joists, which obviously gives you lots of unsupported joints. Why not fit the boards along the joists so the joints are supported?

 

One of the rooms is about 2300mm wide and the joists are spaced at 400mm centres - so a full board will fit with the joists - the only joins would then be on the joists, if I go across the joists I will have a large joint that is unsupported.

 

I have also fitted counter batterns to another ceiling as the joist are twisted, skewed, not level and spaced at varying centres - the counter batterns are all at 400mm centres so again fitting the boards along the batterns would give more supported joins.

 

Your advice,  thoughts and ideas are welcomed,

 

Thanks Wozza.

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Papered edges stronger than cut edges that's why perpendicular. 

I always normally nog if 12.5mm boards so every edge has solid backing. 

 

Last job I used 600mm centres with 15mm plasterboard and no noggins. Unsupported long edges. Was ok but think I still prefer 12.5mm on nogs

Edited by Oz07
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, wozza said:

Hi All,

 

I am about to fit the plasterboard to my ceilings.

 

Most of what I have seen online shows or instructs you to fit the boards perpendicularly across the joists, which obviously gives you lots of unsupported joints. Why not fit the boards along the joists so the joints are supported?

 

One of the rooms is about 2300mm wide and the joists are spaced at 400mm centres - so a full board will fit with the joists - the only joins would then be on the joists, if I go across the joists I will have a large joint that is unsupported.

 

I have also fitted counter batterns to another ceiling as the joist are twisted, skewed, not level and spaced at varying centres - the counter batterns are all at 400mm centres so again fitting the boards along the batterns would give more supported joins.

 

Your advice,  thoughts and ideas are welcomed,

 

Thanks Wozza.

 

 

 

 

 

If you use duplex 15 mil boards 

The edges don’t need to be supported 

Even at 600 centres 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Does anybody do back blocking over here

plasterboard offcuts stuck to the back of the boards in between the joists. Overlapping the joints

i did my place in oz like this and it was very flat and true without skimming just jointed. 

 

I did this on my vaulted MF ceiling area but I used small strips of wood and screwed through to join the boards.

Edited by wozza
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

Does anybody do back blocking over here

plasterboard offcuts stuck to the back of the boards in between the joists. Overlapping the joints

i did my place in oz like this and it was very flat and true without skimming just jointed. 

 

Just did some research and watched some videos on this, seems mainly to be an Aussie method but I think its a good idea - on some of those videos the plasterboards are massive, like about 6 meters long - three blokes to lift and fix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With long enough boards you can do away with any joints on the non papered edge anyway. Just keep them to internal corners. 

 

@Russell griffiths in qld with your house did you have to leave all your internal partitions short of underside of trusses? I remember they used to get left a couple of inch short with brackets which allowed up and down movement but not sideways. This was 20 years ish ago but that's why everything had coving 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, Oz07 said:

With long enough boards you can do away with any joints on the non papered edge anyway. Just keep them to internal corners. 

 

@Russell griffiths in qld with your house did you have to leave all your internal partitions short of underside of trusses? I remember they used to get left a couple of inch short with brackets which allowed up and down movement but not sideways. This was 20 years ish ago but that's why everything had coving 

Yes walls left short and a metal tie into the trusses, or blocks of timber either side of the wall, but definitely not fixed tight. 

I think it was to do with the bottom chord of the truss deflecting in high wind loads. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...