wozza Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 Hi All, I am about to fit the plasterboard to my ceilings. Most of what I have seen online shows or instructs you to fit the boards perpendicularly across the joists, which obviously gives you lots of unsupported joints. Why not fit the boards along the joists so the joints are supported? One of the rooms is about 2300mm wide and the joists are spaced at 400mm centres - so a full board will fit with the joists - the only joins would then be on the joists, if I go across the joists I will have a large joint that is unsupported. I have also fitted counter batterns to another ceiling as the joist are twisted, skewed, not level and spaced at varying centres - the counter batterns are all at 400mm centres so again fitting the boards along the batterns would give more supported joins. Your advice, thoughts and ideas are welcomed, Thanks Wozza. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 You always have long edges unsupported but they are skimmed over...? Then you start the next board (1200mm edge) on a joist..?? Then it’s brick pattern to stagger the joints. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 (edited) Papered edges stronger than cut edges that's why perpendicular. I always normally nog if 12.5mm boards so every edge has solid backing. Last job I used 600mm centres with 15mm plasterboard and no noggins. Unsupported long edges. Was ok but think I still prefer 12.5mm on nogs Edited April 22, 2020 by Oz07 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 3 hours ago, wozza said: Hi All, I am about to fit the plasterboard to my ceilings. Most of what I have seen online shows or instructs you to fit the boards perpendicularly across the joists, which obviously gives you lots of unsupported joints. Why not fit the boards along the joists so the joints are supported? One of the rooms is about 2300mm wide and the joists are spaced at 400mm centres - so a full board will fit with the joists - the only joins would then be on the joists, if I go across the joists I will have a large joint that is unsupported. I have also fitted counter batterns to another ceiling as the joist are twisted, skewed, not level and spaced at varying centres - the counter batterns are all at 400mm centres so again fitting the boards along the batterns would give more supported joins. Your advice, thoughts and ideas are welcomed, Thanks Wozza. If you use duplex 15 mil boards The edges don’t need to be supported Even at 600 centres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 Does anybody do back blocking over here plasterboard offcuts stuck to the back of the boards in between the joists. Overlapping the joints i did my place in oz like this and it was very flat and true without skimming just jointed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wozza Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: Does anybody do back blocking over here plasterboard offcuts stuck to the back of the boards in between the joists. Overlapping the joints i did my place in oz like this and it was very flat and true without skimming just jointed. I did this on my vaulted MF ceiling area but I used small strips of wood and screwed through to join the boards. Edited April 22, 2020 by wozza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 Easier to just nog id of thought 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wozza Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 18 hours ago, Russell griffiths said: Does anybody do back blocking over here plasterboard offcuts stuck to the back of the boards in between the joists. Overlapping the joints i did my place in oz like this and it was very flat and true without skimming just jointed. Just did some research and watched some videos on this, seems mainly to be an Aussie method but I think its a good idea - on some of those videos the plasterboards are massive, like about 6 meters long - three blokes to lift and fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 With long enough boards you can do away with any joints on the non papered edge anyway. Just keep them to internal corners. @Russell griffiths in qld with your house did you have to leave all your internal partitions short of underside of trusses? I remember they used to get left a couple of inch short with brackets which allowed up and down movement but not sideways. This was 20 years ish ago but that's why everything had coving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 28 minutes ago, Oz07 said: With long enough boards you can do away with any joints on the non papered edge anyway. Just keep them to internal corners. @Russell griffiths in qld with your house did you have to leave all your internal partitions short of underside of trusses? I remember they used to get left a couple of inch short with brackets which allowed up and down movement but not sideways. This was 20 years ish ago but that's why everything had coving Yes walls left short and a metal tie into the trusses, or blocks of timber either side of the wall, but definitely not fixed tight. I think it was to do with the bottom chord of the truss deflecting in high wind loads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 Yes that's what it was for cyclone strength winds I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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