magnethead Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 Hi, I need to extend and box section 300mm downwards from the current overhand that was made, I know most fixings top out at around 300mm. How would you suggest adding this maybe double layer of 150mm insulation slabs to the bottom of this overhang? OR could you suggest a way to properly frame it out? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 What for? is it just for show? to hide some pipes in? does it need to be hollow or can it be solid eps ? what you covering it in ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 Of its just for show and no actual purpose, if probably fix 4x2 into the edge of the concrete (in an L shape) , then just coach bolt in vertical battens on the outer edge as required (to match the depth of the insulation less the osb) . Then sheath with osb or whatever and render onto it? The weight will be minimal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnethead Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 @Russell griffiths thanks, it's just for show, if I didn't make this overhand 300mm lower, the window on the right at the top, would have a skinny looking render area under it that wouldnt be in proportion @jamiehamy thanks very much for your suggestion ? I'll make up a frame like you suggested, I'd nearly prefer a metal frame in case the box ever sprung a leak, also one lad told me to have the same material under the thin coat render, as two different materials could cause cracks, expanding and contracting at different rates, I might try boxing out that frame with insulation.. To have the exterior rendered surface all the same.. Thanks for your suggestion 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 I like the idea of two layers of 150mm eps all glued and screwed on. Then render underneath. On a different topic, are you happy with that reinforcement showing through the concrete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnethead Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 (edited) Yeah, two 150mm layers would be ideal, I can figure out the first layers and the fixings needed, but I would NOT trust the second layer with just adhesive, and what kinda fixings are going to get through 300mm of insulation and find concrete, and maybe the steel sections in the flooring panels, which are another 40mm in?? I don't understand what you mean about the reinforcement, are you saying you see rebar in that picture above? I better go back and take a closer look if so. Edited October 19, 2019 by magnethead Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 Glue and fix first layer using 150mm fixings, countersunk into eps by 50mm glue second layer and fix using 220mm fixings countersink accordingly. Is that a pattern on the concrete or mesh, I thought it was mesh but it could be the fuzzy pic and my poor eyes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnethead Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 (edited) I'll check out what Fixings I can get, I think they go to 290mm. (It never crossed my mind to sink them into the EPS, thanks for that) , yeah the pattern is from the OSB board the lads frame those ring beams with you had me worried for a second there LOL Edited October 19, 2019 by magnethead Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 For fixings, just use threaded rod from screwfix cut to size (you can get them in 1m lengths) . Resin bond it in to the concrete (pretty straight forward) and use decent washers /flat plate to ensure the load is spread. Counter sink the areas as Russell said. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnethead Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 Some Aluminium U channel bolted to the wall to hold the insulation on that side, and then threaded bar coming down from the Concrete to hold the perimeter area, yeah, that might do the trick! Thanks Lads 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Davies Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 For threaded rod, stainless is about twice the price but 1/3rd the thermal conductivity. 14.4 W/m·K for stainless 304 vs 40 or 50 ish for carbon steel. The heat loss difference probably isn't significant but condensation round the ends might be noticeably better. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-metals-d_858.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nethermoor Posted October 21, 2019 Share Posted October 21, 2019 The way the trade would fix this is with plastic tube washer and concrete screws, this gives a thermal break and a fairly easy application compared to using resin overhead which isn't great fun. 250mm version of this https://www.fixfast.com/products/fastener-systems/surefast-reg-flat-roofing-fastener-system/sf-75mm-tube-washers-for-insulation 100mm version of this https://www.fixfast.com/products/fastener-systems/surefast-reg-flat-roofing-fastener-system/sf-rs-6-1-fasteners-for-concrete-and-timber-decks Fixfast have an Irish branch if that is where you are from memory? If you are struggling from them there's other sellers online. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnethead Posted December 17, 2019 Author Share Posted December 17, 2019 (edited) I like threads that show the outcome, so here go's....I actually bought the stainless threaded bar, and then luckily found a supplier who had 400mm concrete insulation anchors or whatever you call them. (Thanks @Nethermoor) Then I put up some Aluminum track (secured with 150mm concrete screws) There are some metal C-sections running through the panels, so I could use 200mm Timco screws to get into them with a washer I put a heap of concrete fixings in around the esges above the next morning and forgot to take a picture. The final job, good enough for the plaster's to take care of I used Tec7/CT1 on the top layer, and then got my hands on some base coat adhesive to stick the final layer on , you can see a bit spilling over the edges. Thanks everyone for your advise Edited December 17, 2019 by magnethead 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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