Design for temporary garage door blank in OSB panels.

[epsilonGreedy]

It is a wet day so time to plan ahead. When my garage has a roof I intend to fit a temporary wooden blank in the garage door opening, this will need to cope with 2 years of weather.

 

For the moment I am assuming 11mm thick OSB3 sheet with a coat of paint will survive two winters of wind driven rain. My main design query is how to attach the supporting framework to the inner wall block-work in a non destructive manner with view to its later removal. The concrete floor slab at the door threshold has a 6 inch lip which looks like a useful point to butt the supporting frame upto at the bottom to form a solid lower rail to counteract the inward force from high winds. Perhaps all I need is a few frame uprights supported by the floor slab lip at the bottom and bolted through overhanging rafters at the top, thus no drilling and fixing into the wall blockwork?

 

The garage door aperture is 2.7m wide by 2.1m high and will need to incorporate a regular size 33" wide pedestrian door also made from OSB sheet.

[Carrerahill]

A vertical mounted sheet of 11mm OSB exposed to the elements, I can report, will last well over 2 years without paint! Also amazing the surface has not done that thing where the strands on the exposed face start to expand and peel off - so this temporary garage wall of mine will be recycled into something else when it's taken down!

 

I did a temp main garage door, or rather "wall" while I went on holiday last year (just to secure the materials and fixings and all sorts I had out there), 3.2mx2.2m, I made sort of frames to go round the blockwork like a "C" section, they slid over the walls then I screwed sheets to the frame. I put a couple of studs in too. It was during all those storms last year and it all stood up fine. 

 

 

[ProDave]

I have had the window appertures of my sun room boarded over with untreated 11mm OSB for nearly 5 years now, They have swelled at the edges but are still pretty solid.  They won't be fit for anything other than scrap when they come down, but for semi long term protection they are doing well.

[epsilonGreedy]

14 minutes ago, Carrerahill said:

... I made sort of frames to go round the blockwork like a "C" section, they slid over the walls then I screwed sheets to the frame. I put a couple of studs in too.

 

 

Something like your C section frame ends is my plan B. Could you describe how chunky these are as I am trying to picture a cross section of the make-up in plan view..

 

 

[andyscotland]

I've done similar to @Carrerahill in the past for scenery infills in arches and doorways where no fixings were allowed. All indoors so no wind, but pretty big pieces (in some cases with cantilevered bits or opening doors on the panels themselves) and they've been very robust.

 

I don't think they need to be massive. A piece of vertical CLS hard against the wall either side, with horizontal cross-pieces at say 600mm centres joining them together. Then build your studs off that.

 

If you wanted a lower profile look on the outside (or indeed both) you could possibly just use heavy duty angle brackets again on 600mm centres. So basically your first stud either side has the brackets screwed to the blockwork side, to make the channel that slots over the walls.

 

Once the frame is built between that will push your end-supports against the wall edges and prevent twisting etc. They don't need to overlap the sides of the opening by much to be pretty robust.

 

When I've done it we've put a bit of thin rubber inside the clamp to avoid marking the walls but that's perhaps not necessary in your case.

[Carrerahill]

24 minutes ago, epsilonGreedy said:

 

Something like your C section frame ends is my plan B. Could you describe how chunky these are as I am trying to picture a cross section of the make-up in plan view..

 

 

I literally just grabbed the nail gun and some 2x4 and a some scrap 2x6.

 

I nailed a 2x4 to the side of another 2x4 to create the corner sections, of the 2x4 the 4" section "clamped" the inner and outer parts of the wall, the two corners were then linked with some 2x4's face nailed to the side. That gave me a timber frame each side that didn't damage the block, I then put in a sill and a header to "jam" them into place. Studs to support the joints and screwed on the sheet.  If I wanted this to last longer I would have added another 2-3 studs.

 

 

[Conor]

I used a sheet of OSB with a bit of fence paint as a temporary door on my shed, assuming it would last a few months until I had everything finished. After a couple of years it was still 100%. So I just glued and nailed on some T&G panelling, a proper lock, a kick of paint, and it's perfect. Glad I never bothered buying a "real" door.