Declan52 Posted September 19, 2019 Posted September 19, 2019 Before you take another step please do out a plan. Just a top view will do. 2 simple rectangles with one being the deck and one being the shed. Include the side the shed door is on the plan. Once we know all this info then we can give you more help. It's just getting that hard to follow as your jumping from idea to idea and nobody really knows what your end goal is even you I suspect. If you want an overhang at the stream draw it on the plan. If you want another overhang at the side to access the other area then draw it on. If you want to be able to get to the stream overhang from going via the shed then draw that in. You don't want to do this then start adding extra bits in which won't be as strong as you designing them in in the first place. It will be cheaper to do it right at the start instead of a bodge job later on. So sit down with whatever you have to do a plan. We won't care if it's in pencil or crayon, a ms Paint or a super fancy cad drawing. You just need to decide what you want then we can give you the best method to get there. For lifting the beam up an inch you just have to use something that won't absorb water and is strong enough to take the weight. Slate for example, a piece of paving flag would be 50mm but would do the job. Your bound to have 2 bits of something lying round your house to do this.
zoothorn Posted September 19, 2019 Author Posted September 19, 2019 @Declan52 all understood thanks. My old cam takes a charge-day to take a snap, & me drawing/ ages.. or I'd add a sketch as I go like Onoff. Is the idea of -two- cantilevered sections viable then? or is that asking for trouble.
Declan52 Posted September 19, 2019 Posted September 19, 2019 Everything is viable. You just need to plan it from the start.
zoothorn Posted September 19, 2019 Author Posted September 19, 2019 4 hours ago, Declan52 said: Everything is viable. You just need to plan it from the start. I have been planning it meticulously from the start. I couldn't have done any more extensive planning.. Anyway. This is my plan as of now. A revised plan. Until yesterday (coinciding with your confusion where front of cabin was).. the cantilevered addition was over the stream, RHS, on the -side- of the cabin (always was & can only ever be the side of the cabin/ it cannot be the front of the cabin as Id look into a sheer dark bank 4m away). A & B the high side. C & D the low stream side. Lines \\\\\ indicate steep slope to stream. The front of the cabin = BIG arrow. This hasn't changed. The cantilevered section now is on this end (alot of thought how it could've stayed on the cabin RH side, as was my original plan, & to build a separate front "deck" > & link the two: but its too complicated for me). Please let me know if all is clear now? Thanks all- zoot.
Onoff Posted September 19, 2019 Posted September 19, 2019 (edited) Wtf? Up until now I thought ABCD made a perfect square! Edited September 19, 2019 by Onoff
zoothorn Posted September 19, 2019 Author Posted September 19, 2019 (edited) Just receieved shoes, taurus, but badly made/ mishapen not a square up bracket on one (& holes 10mm not 8mm/ just bought all hardware -& £5 10mm bosch bit- for 8mm FFS). No hole in side either. How hard would it be to drill holes in this stuff? Edited September 19, 2019 by zoothorn
zoothorn Posted September 19, 2019 Author Posted September 19, 2019 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: Wtf? Up until now I thought ABCD made a perfect square! Sorry me no understand. It is Onoff joke?
Onoff Posted September 19, 2019 Posted September 19, 2019 (edited) 6 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Just receieved shoes, taurus, but badly made/ mishapen not a square up bracket on one (& holes 10mm not 8mm/ just bought all hardware for 8mm FFS). No hole in side either. How hard would it be to drill holes in this stuff? I told you buy the shoes first didn't I? M8s will be fine in the 10mm holes. Pi$$ easy to drill. Mark, centre punch, 3mm pilot hole then work up say 6mm then 11mm drill. Edited September 19, 2019 by Onoff
Onoff Posted September 19, 2019 Posted September 19, 2019 3 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Sorry me no understand. It is Onoff joke? You've just posted a drawing where on the plan the 4 points make a square. On the 3D sketch they don't.
zoothorn Posted September 19, 2019 Author Posted September 19, 2019 23 minutes ago, Onoff said: I told you buy the shoes first didn't I? M8s will be fine in the 10mm holes. Pi$$ easy to drill. Mark, centre punch, 3mm pilot hole then work up say 6mm then 11mm drill. [Please tell me abouty your last post- I'm tearing my hair out trying to understand how it's not clear/ I just cant do again it takes me so long to do this & photo it]. I did buy shoes 1st... I asked the hole "8mm" he said. So I go buy xyz hardware & costly 10mm bit etc all ready to do today. One shoe is n/g, so I can't proceed until its replaced/ maybe a week with "1st send other one back". FFS man. I have 10
Declan52 Posted September 19, 2019 Posted September 19, 2019 Is this the final plan?? So it will look like this then when complete. Why is one shoe no good???
Onoff Posted September 19, 2019 Posted September 19, 2019 46 minutes ago, Declan52 said: Is this the final plan?? So it will look like this then when complete. Why is one shoe no good??? Look at 54 minutes ago, zoothorn said: [Please tell me abouty your last post- I'm tearing my hair out trying to understand how it's not clear/ I just cant do again it takes me so long to do this & photo it]. I did buy shoes 1st... I asked the hole "8mm" he said. So I go buy xyz hardware & costly 10mm bit etc all ready to do today. One shoe is n/g, so I can't proceed until its replaced/ maybe a week with "1st send other one back". FFS man. I have 10 My sincere apologies. At first glance I thought D was under the corner of the extended deck rather than one corner of the cabin. Small phone/bad eyesight here! I meant buy the shoes, check the hole size then get the studs. Until it's in your hand you don't know 100% what size the holes are going to be. (If they had been 12mm holes maybe you could have used 10mm studs)⁸. What you have will work. Use the 10mm drill bit to drill thru the 10mm holes in the shoe and mark the concrete. Then drill 10mm holes in the concrete. Then fit 8mm studs with resin. Why have you got to send the shoe back? Take a pic, send to the seller saying it's no good, how it's holding the job up and can they send a replacement asap. But don't get snotty.
zoothorn Posted September 19, 2019 Author Posted September 19, 2019 (edited) 2 hours ago, Onoff said: You've just posted a drawing where on the plan the 4 points make a square. On the 3D sketch they don't. Ok thank goodness. Sorted. Declan to the rescue. I really need a beer. And I haven't even done anything. Thanks chaps. Edited September 19, 2019 by zoothorn
zoothorn Posted September 19, 2019 Author Posted September 19, 2019 1 hour ago, Declan52 said: Is this the final plan?? So it will look like this then when complete. Why is one shoe no good??? Yes. That's it. You see how on earth was I going to draw my shed ontop of ABCD.. without me hiding everything & causing a pickle! One shoe is badly made/ top brackets lop-sided so post barely gets in, then gaps around 2 edges/ clamping won't close gaps. Chap's sending another tmrw > here sat. Cheers Declan.
zoothorn Posted September 19, 2019 Author Posted September 19, 2019 In my sketch (one before Declan's hooligan graffiti).. can you see my brilliant insert aeriel view of my property, top right? long & thin house top cabin btm.
Declan52 Posted September 19, 2019 Posted September 19, 2019 3 minutes ago, zoothorn said: In my sketch (one before Declan's hooligan graffiti).. can you see my brilliant insert aeriel view of my property, top right? long & thin house top cabin btm. You missed your true calling!!!
zoothorn Posted September 19, 2019 Author Posted September 19, 2019 2 minutes ago, Declan52 said: You missed your true calling!!! Youd never believe it.. I studied fine art at Uni! no sh*t neither.. I'm crap. Your yobbo graffiti's better. No seriously its there to show my tricky patch.
Onoff Posted September 20, 2019 Posted September 20, 2019 13 hours ago, zoothorn said: I studied fine art at Uni In the pub / doing a lot of gear most of the time? ? One serious consideration you may want to stop and think about imo is the footprint of the cabin and how it will sit on your base frame. Get it right and water from the cabin sides will simply miss the base frame. Get it wrong and water will sit on the base frame/against the cabin and potentially lead to rot.
zoothorn Posted September 20, 2019 Author Posted September 20, 2019 12 minutes ago, Onoff said: In the pub / doing a lot of gear most of the time? ? One serious consideration you may want to stop and think about imo is the footprint of the cabin and how it will sit on your base frame. Get it right and water from the cabin sides will simply miss the base frame. Get it wrong and water will sit on the base frame/against the cabin and potentially lead to rot. Hi Onoff (you were at the same Uni??) Yes this is the main thing that worries me.. getting this right like this ^ is nigh on an impossibility for me. I'm worried to get the damn thing actually on the beams let alone as perfect as this. Or even getting the beams square at all. or level. I'm still trying to find something to prop the beams upon topside. Ok to progress I need both a plan of attack, & a plan of how A joins to B. I understand so far only, that the two forward long beams sit on notched pillars & bolts join here. But what side the pillar notch inside or out? how do the 2 forward beams attach to the back beam? As to plan of attack, where to even start? construct frame separately > lift on? (but I dont have help/ I guess rules this out). Start from shoe 'up'? but how could I possibly know where the shoe holes go exactly? Ive missed this weather now.. & next week is a wash-out apparantly, so looks like 10 days before I can start now. Ive got the hurry-on from cabin place too "must take away by xmas/ deposit please" fair enough.
zoothorn Posted September 20, 2019 Author Posted September 20, 2019 @Onoff I'm still unsure on timber for beams: you see the 6x2 comes in 4.8m lengths. The 6x3 comes in 3.6m. An ideal fig for the long 2x forwards is 3.7m ( 2.3m cabin + 1.4m DECK) IE if I put the two 'end beams' tagged on, I gain 10cm.. so 3.6 + 10 = 3.7m. And 4.8m are impossible for me to manage surely? or are they? If I could get a plan together during this week.. at the mo I'm so stressed thinking how/if I can do this I'm losing sleep tbh.
Onoff Posted September 20, 2019 Posted September 20, 2019 Are you able to go and measure the base of the cabin you're buying?
zoothorn Posted September 20, 2019 Author Posted September 20, 2019 59 minutes ago, Onoff said: Are you able to go and measure the base of the cabin you're buying? Yup. 2.3m (its a "2.5m cabin" but 10cm of excess wall each end = 2.3m sq base).
Onoff Posted September 20, 2019 Posted September 20, 2019 (edited) Seems a lot of work for such a tiny space.....what are you going to do in there? So this, are you positive? Edited September 20, 2019 by Onoff
Declan52 Posted September 20, 2019 Posted September 20, 2019 Why not just make the deck big enough to have the shed fully sitting on it on each section???
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